I think I would be more concerned about what caused the crack. There is little point in making a repair if there is an underlying cause for the chassis cracking. It might be worth sending a photo to the chassis manufacturer seeking advice.
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Alko Kober specifically state that the chassis should not be welded. The associated heat could do other damage and weaken it elsewhere. It was heat weakening the steelwork in the World Trade Center that led to it's total collapse. Having said that, a good welder should be able to weld a small crack quickly enough to avoid any significant heat build up provided he is aware of the risk. Welding will invalidate your warranty, but if you have any warranty I assume you would be getting a new chassis from them. Worth checking with alko on warranty as I think the chassis warranty is longer than the manufacturers warranty.
In theory it should be possible to weld it but I think I would want to know more about it. Is it an Alko chassis, how old is it, why is it there, what caused it and exactly where is it.
From previous threads I think we are talking about a 20odd yr old caravan here. If you can get it welded cheap, do it. You do however need a good welder who knows what he is doing. Keep a check on the repair, if it cracks again, scrap caravan.
Daver, if you want meaningful help you do need to supply more detail in your posts.
All I can say Dave, is find a competant welder. Your local garage may do it. They will need to grind into crack & fill with weld. It may hold or the weld may crack, worth a try, anyway.
Quote: Originally posted by birder99 on 23/5/2011
And when the weld fails on the motorway at 60mph........
It won't be that dramatic, it never is. To answer your question, if the weld fails at 60mph on a motorway you wouldn't even notice, the crack in the op's caravan could have been there for yrs & could be there for yrs more if he hadn't noticed.
Obviously a cracked chassis is not ideal but it won't fail on the road. Welding is ok for a temporary fix. Yrs ago we used to weld cracked spring hangers on heavy trucks. Usually cracked again after a few months but it was fine for a temporary repair.
If this is an ALKO chassis I'll guarantee a weld will very soon crack again, unless the right welding rod is used?
The metal used is high in manganese which is what gives it it's toughness and why it's not recommend to weld it. Ideally then I'd suggest a 13% manganese hard facing rod should be used or a Nickle/Chrome one for dissimilar metals, or at a pinch, a stainless rod.
As said a good welder should know what their doing and have the ideal rod to hand.
Having said that, are you sure it's a crack? unless you can see rust in the crack? I'd first suspect it's just a line in the galvanising, especially as it's running front to back?
As a welder, my opinion is that it can be welded, but whatever caused the crack needs to be rectified.As Gary says, I would use a nickel / chrome welding rod. I would also be inclined to drill a small hole at the end of the crack to relieve the stress and stop it cracking further.
My primary concern would be that the heat build up would put stress elsewhere on the chassis and cause distortion which could potentially lead to long term stresses which could cause cracks to appear elsewhere.
I would also gamble there is a 50% chance that it will simply crack again alongside the weld within a few weeks. Putting a plate over the crack would help avoid this but certainly not eliminate it. If the section could be unbolted and welded in a jig it would be much better, but better yet would be to unbolt the section and replace it.
The odds are it is not going to crack again at 60mph on the motor way, it's going to be as you creep over a sleeping policeman or reverse onto a pitch. There is relatively little stress on the motorway at speed as the motorways are fairly level and even when being passed by a van, the forces are fairly even in comparison to going over a speed bump or uneven ground.
Your crack could have been caused if the van has been pulled with a jeep without a shock link.Jeeps have a hard suspension and im not talking about a chelsea tractor.I did pull mine with a shock link with the fear of not having one, the vibrations and sudden jolts eg pot holes could cause metal fatiqued..i have read other forums on this subject..
just a thought could it be a folded box section chassis on an older caravan and this line is where it meets after folding? if so there may be weld missing on that line.modern sections of alloy chassis are extruded but they were not always like that..
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.