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Subject Topic: Just changed my Bailey Alde Antifreeze
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PersonVini
15/10/2014 at 2:09pm
 Location: Chester
 Outfit: Nissan X Trail. Bailey Unicorn Seville View Vini's Profile View Profile   Reply to Vini Reply   Quote Vini Quote  
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Hi all. I have just changed my antifreeze in my Bailey Unicorn Saville. The dealer wanted £200 and it cost me £25 for antifreeze and Dis water plus £10 for hose & fittings. I had no problems with trapped air with the method I used. I flushed the old antifreeze out and let it flow for 20min to make sure it was clear. I replaced it with Comma Xtream G40 G12++ spec. 5 year. Anyone thinking of doing the same contact me if you need any help.

Post last edited on 15/10/2014 14:19:57


Personjsparkes201148
23/10/2014 at 7:32pm
 Location: Stockton on Tees
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Thanks for that kind offer, my Lunar Clubman 2011, has never been done so i think i will give it a go. I assume the procedure will be roughly the same for any van.
Can you explain what you did please, in simple terms.
Thanks
John.


Personblitey
26/10/2014 at 7:39pm
 Location: Wolves
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I'm thinking of doing mine before the winter sets in, i have no idea when or even if its been changed in my 2008 Elite Searcher however based on all the other defects we have encountered in the last 12 months i very much doubt the previous lunatic owner would of done it {a long story where he failed to tell us of lots of things that required doing}.......so to avoid chucking more money at costly repairs how often should it be done and is it easy to change yourself.

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A man with one watch knows what time it is; a man with two watches is never quite sure.


PersonJTQU
26/10/2014 at 8:13pm
 Location: Hampshire
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Quote: Originally posted by blitey on 26/10/2014

how often should it be done and is it easy to change yourself.


If you use 5 year life "antifreeze" then it lasts 5 years, easily; if you use the older two year life "antifreeze" as most van builders did, it lasts at least two years.

Changing is "now" easy; I say "now" because there is now a type of 5 year antifreeze that can mix with most two year and earlier 5 year antifreezes. This means it is no longer a requirement to flush out all the old. The 5 year that mixes is to VW spec G12++ [not G12]. A readily available one is "Comma G40 Xtream". It is used at 40/60% to 50/50% concentration, ideally with deionised water.
Before you start, find out where all the system bleeders are, and where the drain down is for the antifreeze solution system.[that can be a challenge].
You need to identify the bleeder locations if you prime the system via the header tank, as air can be trapped causing "air locks" that stop the fluid circulating.
With them identified you need no special gear to prime the system. Keep filling the header and blending systematically from each bleeder in turn till all air is released. Keeping the header topped up. When the pump can circulate the fluid then you are finished, but initially watch the header and keep it topped up as the system rids itself of the final bits of air. It takes about 2 hours to do manually as described.

Professionals have kit that forces the fluid to flow thus purging air quickly.


Personblitey
27/10/2014 at 8:22pm
 Location: Wolves
 Outfit: Stirling Elite Searcher & BMW X5 View blitey's Profile View Profile   Reply to blitey Reply   Quote blitey Quote  
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Now i'm confused, i spoke to a dealer with a service centre today to enquire about the recommendation of when to change and how much, the service manager told me its not something that they to change very often ie if it isn't broken why fix it, however if i wanted it done i was looking at £150....so you i or don't i....at that sort of cost its worth having a go yourself.

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A man with one watch knows what time it is; a man with two watches is never quite sure.


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PersonJTQU
27/10/2014 at 8:46pm
 Location: Hampshire
 Outfit: Hymer Nova S View JTQU's Profile View Profile   Reply to JTQU Reply   Quote JTQU Quote  
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As you said you have a 2008 unit, and with all likelihood the maker used two year life product, so it looks like it has not yet corroded right through the burner can in 6 years.

A new boiler will cost you the thick end of £1000 plus a few hours fitting; then it might not corrode through before you sell the vehicle on.

For 25 odd quid and two hours of work I know what I would do.

You have learnt which service centre really ought not to be trusted with your unit, if nothing else.


Personblitey
27/10/2014 at 9:44pm
 Location: Wolves
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when you put it like that its a no brainer i think i'll have a go at it.

thanks

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A man with one watch knows what time it is; a man with two watches is never quite sure.


PersonLobeyDosser
27/10/2014 at 11:37pm
 Location: Argyll Scotland
 Outfit: 1997 Bailey Ranger 470 4 View LobeyDosser's Profile View Profile   Reply to LobeyDosser Reply   Quote LobeyDosser Quote  
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Just a thought, but you could use a Brake Bleeding Kit to top up the fluid in an Alde System.

All you would need is a spare cap from the top up tank.

You would fill the top up tank to the brim with the new fluid, fill the bleeding system tank with the same fluid, screw the cap with the bleed system onto the header tank, attach the bleeder kit valve to a compressor/spare tyre valve and Bobs your uncle.

As you go around all the breather valves, fluid is pushed into the header tank under low pressure, pushing all the air out of the system.

As soon as all is done, when you unscrew the bleeder kit, all pressure will be released and the system will be unpressurised.

Bleed Kit

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Lobey.


PersonJTQU
28/10/2014 at 7:48am
 Location: Hampshire
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There really is no need or advantage in using a Brake Bleeding Kit. The "head" ie gravity on the header tank provides all the motive power needed to push air from the bleeders. Just make sure you don't bleed off more fluid than there is in the header before returning the bled off fluid. Unlike a car brake system the bled fluid can be returned as it has not the viscosity to hold bubbles in suspension.
The only way the commercial purging kit works in removing air is it induces such a flow rate that the air locks are moved on till they reach a free surface and so dissipate. Saves a lot of time in that the operative does not "need" to find and attend to every bleeder. However where these are on risers then the parked up air will expand when the system is put to work getting hot, giving the possibility that the released air will form another air lock, stopping the system working again, as some owners have found out, from factory priming. It will also lead to dropping of the fluid level in initial post priming life, in itself not a problem but can cause concern.
A normal brake bleeding kit can nowhere near induce the flow rates needed to purge the air through the system.


Personbenthetuba
14/3/2017 at 2:06pm
 Location: Hillingdon Middlesex
 Outfit: bailey unicorn seville View benthetuba's Profile View Profile   Reply to benthetuba Reply   Quote benthetuba Quote  
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Hi How much antifreeze did you need?


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Personblueexpo97
14/3/2017 at 2:48pm
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In a previous post by JTQU they stated that 5ltrs of concentrate made about 12.5ltrs and that was nearly enough for two changes.

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XVI yes?

As well is two words!
How does a sage know everything about everything? or does he? or does he just think he does?
Remember, if you buy something you bought it, not brought it.


Personturkman
15/5/2018 at 8:02pm
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Hi,very interesting,but I can't seem to find a drain on the boiler to drain the antifreeze,other people also seem to have this problem too.
so is there a drain tap or plug?

Regards Trevor


Personbenthetuba
15/5/2018 at 9:04pm
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Hi Trevor, the drain is inder the back of my caravan about 6 inches from the back and in the middle. If you have a problem with draining and gettin rid or air locks you can tip the van backwards and forwards.it is a very simple job. if you have any problems just contact me.

Regards, Ben.


Personturkman
18/5/2018 at 4:23pm
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Thank's for that Ben,I will have a look and hope It's the same on a Swift.

Regards Trevor


PersonThe 2 Tops
19/5/2018 at 10:52am
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When we bought our current Swift, I had the choice of a model with Alde heating or the conventional space heater. Having heard a few tales of woe by disgruntled owners with the Alde system, we decided that previous vans we'd had with the space heater and blown air heating had proven adequate for a caravan, so that's what we still have.
It got me thinking about all thee appliances in a modern caravan which can fail at any time, so why add another to the list? I can pretty much deal with any appliance breakdowns which might occur, but who wants any problems when on holiday?
Bertie.

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The 2 Tops


Personblueexpo97
20/5/2018 at 8:43am
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Alde best system ever.

-------------
XVI yes?

As well is two words!
How does a sage know everything about everything? or does he? or does he just think he does?
Remember, if you buy something you bought it, not brought it.



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