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02/7/2009 at 12:32pm
Location: Scotland. Outfit: Conway Camargue Lots of Vangos. .
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Joined: 19/6/2004 Diamond Member
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A lot of campsites won't let you do this because of damage to the grass. Also, it needs several hours/overnightto dry and you don't want to be sleeping inside it during this, because of the fumes. You can get round this by sleeping in a pup tent next to it.
Also, remember you'll need to clean it first! No point in putting Fabsil over a load of dirt. Apart from anything else it won't grip properly. So ideally you need one day to clean and double rinse the thing, overnight to dry it, plus 12 hours per coat of Fabsil + drying time. Two thin coats are better than one. It's a weekend job, best done in a garden. Or you can ask the campsite if they have a piece of rough ground they don't mind you working on, with a hose point nearby.
sh*tty job, really, which is why I advise folk not to start proofing their canvas till absolutely necessary. But some folk seem hell bent on it, gawd knows why, and then of course you need to carry on doing it every five years.
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02/7/2009 at 10:42pm
Location: Cambridgeshire Outfit: Sunncamp Shadow 800
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HI, All i have to say is why use fabsil, that is very expensive, we had to water proof our old sumcamp continetal 6, ten years old, and that was going to cost around £60 with the fabsil, so i looked around and went to my local DIY shop to look for an alternative, and yes i found one, Thompsons Water Seal, I know everyone will think its for putting on brick work, but if you read the lable it is suitable for canvas as well, at at a quarter of the price, i payed £15, but you can get it for about £12 from screwfix. This was for a 5lt tin, and was more than enough to cover the whole of our tent. Like any water proofing product they do smell a bit, but after two day of being up in the garden the smell was gone.
This did not darken the colour of our canvas, and did nor mark it either.
------------- Camping is not just for Christmas - Its for life :)
Fleur
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