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Subject Topic: water proof. Post Reply Post New Topic
01/5/2011 at 11:03am
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Hi all,
We have just bought an old conway tardis. My question, ( though I may have a few) is. I was thinking of fabsiling the fabric and awning before we go away next weekend. I asked the previous owner if he ever re proofed it and he said he never did, but never had any leaks. It has been stowed for 18 months. I was thinking of putting the hose pipe on it to see if there are any leaks. We dont want any problems the first time it rains. Is this what you guys would do. or would you just go out and buy the fabsil and re-seal it? Are we making work for our selves?
what would be the proceedure to re-proof the camper eg do you have to clean the canvass first or do you just brush the new fabsil straight on to the canvass as it is?
Thanks for any replys in advance.
Tony.


01/5/2011 at 11:20am
 Location: Notts
 Outfit: Cabanon Stellar
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Check it with hose first. Once you start using Fabsil, you will need to repeat fairly frequently, as you have bypassed the natural waterproofing method of canvas. If you are going to Fabsil, I would use a specialist canvas tent cleaner first.

This will be a lot of effort.

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Dave


01/5/2011 at 11:27am
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Thanks Dave.
So would you say dont reproof for the sake of it. leave it if its not leaking?


01/5/2011 at 2:02pm
 Location: Southern England
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I wouldn't reproof unless you absolutely have to. I would put a hose on it and see if it needs it first.

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Pauline


01/5/2011 at 3:17pm
 Location: Notts
 Outfit: Cabanon Stellar
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Canvas is waterproof naturally, by the water shrinks the fibres, and even closes sewing holes. This requires the water to penetrate the fabric. Once you have coated the canvas with a reproofing solution then this mechanism can no longer work. Many people manage with no canvas re-proofng for 15 years +.

TenCate Canvas Care



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Dave


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01/5/2011 at 3:18pm
 Location: Vale of Llangollen Wrexham
 Outfit: Abbey. Domino 2 plus Vintage Mo-tent
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get it damp!  Use the sprinkler not the jet.   The canvas will absorb moisture and that will thicken the thread and thereby tightening the weft.  This is the waterproofing bit.  As previously stated, waterproofing (silicon type) will interfere with the absorption process of the cotton fabric.

I bought a TT that had been in storage for many years and was dry as a bone.  So the first time I pitched was in a heavy dew overnight.  Dried out the following day so then sprinkled it and repeated driying out process.  The following day when I drenched it, not a drop came in.   Before process from inside I could see many tiny pin-holes (like starlettes) but after, there were none.   I have repeated the process will all my canvas including the Tamaris I have recently purchased.   No leaks and a good dense canvas.



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Mavericks don't get to lead the herd - not that they want to!


01/5/2011 at 5:57pm
 Location: cheshire
 Outfit: Abbey Alliance 1998
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my tardis is a 1986 version, I am not sure it has ever been waterproofed and although we have had a minor leak once (after 2 hours of very heavy rain) the rest has stood up to the elements pretty well - and we were away for a week at october half term. The awning stood up to the elements too despite me having the poles the wrong way round  - i have sussed it now!

I got mine just under a year ago and was a little bit worried about all kinds of things, but it seems a very solidly built thing and I really am loving it!



01/5/2011 at 6:20pm
 Location: Scotland.
 Outfit: Conway Camargue Lots of Vangos. .
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Owner of a 1989 Conway Camargue here, made of CGI (Cabanon) canvas. . Never been waterproofed, never had a leak . (Except the time the canvas blew against the bed board in a monsoon, but that's another story.) Good quality canvas doesn't need proofed unless you've done something horrid to it, like tried to clean it with detergent, or if it's got very old and thin. Once you start proofing canvas though you do need to keep topping it up every 4-5 years as has been said, as it has in effect removed the ability of the cotton fibres to swell up. It's a big and quite pricey to reproof a canvas properly and you need to be able to erect the unit for two or three days to dry properly, so it's worth avoiding if at all possible.

EELFREAK, put your Tardis up and give it a good damping down. It may drip a little during this first soak but don't panic. Let it dry then hose it again. It should not leak, unless the canvas is very thin and old. Canvas can get very dry in storage and this first damping just helps the fibres plump up again.

 

 



01/5/2011 at 6:45pm
 Location: Notts
 Outfit: Cabanon Stellar
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Welcome back Val, long time no hear!

Post last edited on 01/05/2011 19:05:50

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Dave


01/5/2011 at 6:57pm
 Location: Scotland.
 Outfit: Conway Camargue Lots of Vangos. .
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Quote: Originally posted by DaveWr on 01/5/2011


Welcome back Val, long time no here!

Thanks, Dave. Must be summer if I've come out of hibernation, eh?



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01/5/2011 at 7:07pm
 Location: Notts
 Outfit: Cabanon Stellar
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I have heard you have deep winters over the borders, that's why the Romans gave up



Anyway now we can expect more expert opinion on trailer tents.

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Dave


01/5/2011 at 9:36pm
 Location: Southern England
 Outfit: Pennine Pullman
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Val, welcome back. I was wondering where you'd been. I thought perhaps you'd given up camping and were spinning full-time instead!

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Pauline


01/5/2011 at 10:51pm
 Location: Scotland.
 Outfit: Conway Camargue Lots of Vangos. .
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Quote: Originally posted by Pauline49 on 01/5/2011


Val, welcome back. I was wondering where you'd been. I thought perhaps you'd given up camping and were spinning full-time instead!

Spinning is for winter. Camping and gardening are for summer time. Though I have bought myself a new travelling spinning wheel. :)

Anyway, back to the Topic....



02/5/2011 at 9:52am
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Thanks everyone.
I am so glad I did not waste £27 on 5lt fabsil. Sprinkler here we come. lol



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