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Topic: Hopefully simple electrics questions
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14/7/2012 at 7:50am
Location: Rushden Northants Outfit: Mercedes 614D Conversion
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An IP65 or 68 appliance inlet will sort your incoming power.
We have a small consumer unit with three MCB's, each rated at 6A, ours is a trailer rather than a folding camper, but the requirement is much the same. We feed two 13A sockets from one, microwave and TV socket, the fridge off another and the water heater off the third. We don't pull 13A for anything, so 6A MCB's are fine.
If the consumer unit is inside, then a standard unit is OK, make sure you have an RCD fitted, rated for 16A.
We do have 12V as well, mainly for audio/TV/Satellite receiver, lighting and we have an extraction fan in the kitchen cupboards. There are some nice 12V sockets made by Clipsal, look on ebay. Don't forget to fuse any wiring.
Peter
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14/7/2012 at 2:02pm
Location: St ALBANS Outfit: Riva(Dandy) Destiny. Peugeot 5008
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Most caravan inlets are rated at IP45, the same as the CEE plugs and sockets. You really need to get a caravan type consumer unit as they have MCB's with double pole switching. It is usual to have 6amp for fridges and water heater and 10 amp for 13 amp socket supply. By nature the RCD is double pole. Cabling around the camper must be in a minimum of 1.5mm flexible not twin and earth. However the cable from the inlet to the consumer unit must be 2.5mm flexible so I have used that size throughout. Hope this helps Bob ps no need for a ring main, a radial system is ok because of fuse / wire sizes.
Post last edited on 14/07/2012 14:17:42
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14/7/2012 at 2:14pm
Location: Sheffield Outfit: lunar ultima 525
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You need ip rated if water getting to the unit is an issue,but bear in mind you may install the unit in a dry place,but would it be subect to water if you have to wet pack?The ip rated d.b,s are probably a little more expensive.
You can use your ip rated leads to feed the d.b.The unit you fit for example to outside of the camper is not a socket(cammando) it is a fixed plug inverted.So your H.U lead has a plug on one end which you plug into the site supply and a socket on the other end which plugs into the plug fixed on the outside of your trailer (all commando type).The plug in turn then connects to the feed wherever you have fitted your d.b(consumer unit).You can buy these commando plus and sockets from any camping shop or electrical wholesalers .You would also need to run a 6mm min earth cable from the d.b and connect to the metal framework of the t.t ( it should have a sign electrical connection do not remove) This earths the frame.
A lot of people have 12v installed mainly to use for none hook up sites,plus the water pumps are usualy 12v the fridges usualy will run of 12v,mains and gas ,but if you use it on 12v it will drain your battery like you never know .The trouble with 12v is
1-the batteries are heavy
2-the batteries need care.if they are left without regulor charge and discharge they will die. (they are best left on a near perminent slow electronic charger)
3-a 12v fridge will soon flatten your battery and even a tv for a few days.
4-What happens when your battery goes flat?Not all sites will charge it and if they do you will have to pay,plus the charge will take all day .A rapid charge 1or 2 hours that garages have are not good for the batteries and can bend the plates.
12v is only ok as a back up or very short break.A lot of campers have a mains system with a built in charger to charge the batteries whilst on hook up and use it for awhile to keep the batteries in good condition. ie you can switch between mains and 12v.
hope this helps GCB
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