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Subject Topic: Undersealing TT Post Reply Post New Topic
13/8/2012 at 11:56am
 Location: Vale of Llangollen Wrexham
 Outfit: Abbey. Domino 2 plus Vintage Mo-tent
View Fidgad's Profile View Profile   Reply to Fidgad Reply   Quote Fidgad Quote  
Joined: 10/9/2007

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I am currently renovating/restoring a ver early unique trailer tent/camper and I need to underseal the base which is mainly marine ply and, of coarse, steel girders.  I did look at the old favourite Bitumen Paint but is states 'unsuitable for wood.  Any suggestions?  The trailer is 8 foot by 5.5 foot.  I can hammerite the ironwork but the wood and wheel arches?  

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Mavericks don't get to lead the herd - not that they want to!


13/8/2012 at 12:54pm
 Location: BRISTOL
 Outfit: Kampa Frinton 5. Litchfield Montana 6.
View don-maureen's Profile View Profile   Reply to don-maureen Reply   Quote don-maureen Quote  
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hi I am looking at the same sort of revamp for my 1985 model, I am thinking 'fence' treatment for the wood floor , a few coats :) and a set of mud flaps to keep the main 'washing' from spray off the floor.
some one here said they used car under seal.... but I would have thought that was for 'metal'.....
what are your inner wheel arches 'mudgaurds' made of? mine are plastic/fiberglass sort of material.

regards
don/maureen

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I sure do like the UK summers :) :)


13/8/2012 at 3:01pm
 Location: SHROPSHIRE
 Outfit: Swift Conqueror 560 Shogun tug
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The absolute best treatment for marine ply to keep out water etc is a brush applied epoxy resin. Look at W.E.S.T system expoy resins. Designed for boat building. it turns wood into a plastic like state which will totally proof it against every thing except UV light. To proof against this then just paint after application.

F



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No matter where you go....there you are


13/8/2012 at 3:04pm
 Location: SHROPSHIRE
 Outfit: Swift Conqueror 560 Shogun tug
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www.westsystem.com

Try that. Not cheap but the best.



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No matter where you go....there you are


13/8/2012 at 5:01pm
 Location: Vale of Llangollen Wrexham
 Outfit: Abbey. Domino 2 plus Vintage Mo-tent
View Fidgad's Profile View Profile   Reply to Fidgad Reply   Quote Fidgad Quote  
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Hmmm. Thanks  ferrodo, however I was looking at something a little less high-tech as I want to maintain originality.  Wheel arches appear to be galvanised steel in inner and 'arch' while outer body is ply.  Some sort of rubberised solution perhaps?

Post last edited on 13/08/2012 18:46:11

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Mavericks don't get to lead the herd - not that they want to!


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14/8/2012 at 2:08am
 Location: Argyll Scotland
 Outfit: 1997 Bailey Ranger 470 4
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I used Schultz to proof the base of our old Raclet TT but if I was doing the same again, I would be looking more towards Waxoil.

The main difference is that Schultz chips from road stones and will need redoing every few years whereas Waxoil "creeps" and any damaged pinholes will fill in over time.

Both of these applications would be put on using my compressor.



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Lobey.


14/8/2012 at 1:11pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: 2010 Trigano Olympe GL
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Quote: Originally posted by ferrodo on 13/8/2012

www.westsystem.com

Try that. Not cheap but the best.



Would the liquid resin and harnder that you get for car body fibreglass repairs not do for sealing the wood? eg: this


14/8/2012 at 9:36pm
 Location: BRISTOL
 Outfit: Kampa Frinton 5. Litchfield Montana 6.
View don-maureen's Profile View Profile   Reply to don-maureen Reply   Quote don-maureen Quote  
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Hi,
You may find the 'car' one sets too quickly.
the one recommended earlier 'can' have a 'slow cure' hardener which will give you time to apply and time for it to 'soak' into the wood before it hardens... especialy around the chassis area....

regards
don

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I sure do like the UK summers :) :)


15/8/2012 at 8:13am
 Location: SHROPSHIRE
 Outfit: Swift Conqueror 560 Shogun tug
View ferrodo's Profile View Profile   Reply to ferrodo Reply   Quote ferrodo Quote  
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The west SYTEM TYPE epoxies are very thin and designed to soak into wood where as normal fibre gkass resins are thicker and designed to be used with glass fibre matting.

F



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No matter where you go....there you are


16/8/2012 at 11:33am
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: None Entered
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don't use hammerite otherwise you'll doing it again soon.

i can recommend the following stuff (used on my vw camper):

http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/electrox

if you've got cavities on the chassis (maybe not if they're just plain old steel girders) use this inside:

http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50

i don't work for this company but their stuff is good.  i took the view it may not be the cheapest but i didn't want to do it all again for a very long time and so far the results are excellent.

this stuff comes highly recommended by classic car owners etc - do a google search and you'll find plenty of comments.

i reckon the marine ply will be fine with any sort of outdoor timber treatment - the stuff designed for fence posts that sinks in deep (not a surface type paint/treatment).  as long as the ply isn't pemanently wet, and as its marine, this should be fine.

hope this helps




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