The stabiliser is the hitch, if you look up alko stabiliser (I think the most common on folding campers is the 1300) you can see what it looks like?
Alternatively ( and apologies if you have already done this and I missed it) link to the add for the one you are buying and if theres a picture of the hitch we could see.
a normal hitch is like a cup that fits over the ball of your towbar, while a stabiliser has this too, it also has plates inside that are adjusted to grip the towball to help stop the trailer snaking while driving.(Someone more knowledgable may correct me in which case feel free to believe them as I am a newbie!)
A standard hitch will just have a single locking 'handle' that clicks into position when engaged ... a stabiliser will include other things, like a rotating wheel to tighten/loosen the pads that grip the towball ... etc.
As far as tow bar and electrics go .... fit the best you can afford .... but don't spend on kit that is only more expensive because it can tow something so big that your car can't .... go to the limit of what your car can do, and the best you can afford .... campers are always on an upward evolutionary curve! never satisfied with what they have .... always growing, expanding, improving their 'gear' ... so always try to get as far 'up scale' as you can afford at the time, as it will save on future replacement/upgrading spend.
It's worth remembering that a stabiliser is not to allow you to tow unbalanced loads safely .... or to drive more carelessly ... there are strong arguments for not fitting one at all ... "If it isn't towing correctly without a stabiliser, then your 'set-up' isn't right." ... etc.
I have one fitted on my Pullman as an aid to towing ... sometimes passing, or being passed by a large artic can set up a considerable air buffetting and cause a temporary 'snake' ... this is more rapidly quashed if you have a stabiliser fitted .... likewise sudden air/wind changes when on, for instance, an exposed bridge.
Quote: Originally posted by Nonamesleft on 17/6/2015
It was for a single one and a double was £290. The thing is I will mostly use the camper for weekend or 4 days max and I have been told the battery will last. The fridge does not work on electric at the moment, just gas but the seller said it could just be a fuse. I will mostly be near an EHU on site. I did think about getting the 13pin plug fitted and then buy an adaptor but I don't think I will get a newer version camper with these and also my car is not strong enough to tow a caravan even if I wanted to upgrade. It's only £40 difference plus the adaptor cost
When we had our caravan we used C&CC Temporary Holiday sites most of the time, quite often these were just a field with water tap and somewhere to empty the loo, a fully charged leisure battery would easily operate the water pump and interior lighting for a week, and that included the electrics for the hot water system and using the shower.
The fridge should be used on gas anyway unless you have EHU, the 12volt (from the car) is only really suitable for keeping it cool while travelling, and assuming you leave it ajar when not in use you'd only have to open the camper up to close the door
Thank you.
Why is it best to run the fridge on gas?
I just bought it and the fridge will not power by either electric option, the guy said it bought it like this and has just always used gas. It said it could just be a fuse but not sure. I am happy to use gas if it is safe to have it on all of the time. Thanks
Not best ... just the alternative to EHU ... if you are paying for EHU, then it'll always be cheaper to use it for the fridge, rather than paying extra for your own gas.
As Kelper says; not best, but it is the only alternative to EHU, as you can't run a fridge off the leisure battery (they aren't even connected in most campers). The 12V setting is only for running off the vehicle battery, when towing (if you have twin electrics). Otherwise, it would flatten the leisure battery in a matter of hours.
------------- The one good thing about being wrong is the joy it brings to others..
With regards to the fridge not working on 240V, make sure the 12v switch is set to off and the thermostat is set as high as it will go, don't forget to turn it down once you've confirmed it's working.
If you still can't get it to work look around under the seating near the consumer unit for a plug and socket, the fridge may be simply plugged in and it's been switched off (or the fuse has gone) also check the circuit breakers in the consumer unit and make sure they are all on. if you can't find a plug and socket under the seating check inside the cupboards adjacent to the fridge, it's also possible the fridge is wired into a fused spur so look for one of those too, if you need to know what a fused spur looks like just google it.