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I think George may have ommited this link:-

http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/

Something I am going to have to do myself soon.  I am waiting for some spring weather first though as I will have to do it outside.

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Steven

Quote: Originally posted by surfy on 14/12/2004

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tekaloid cant be bought anymore and have you seen the price of devilbiss lately,i decided i needed new gun and knew what i wanted as best on market,didnt get one far to pricey i remember it was first gun i ever bought years ago exellent spray pattern but howay not using everyday.old continental tent makes good temporary spray booth. 

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Quote: Originally posted by Paul_B on 22/12/2004

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Tekaloid does take a long time to dry but that is the whole point otherwise it will not flow-out properly, It's what makes it unique from other synthetic paints.

Tekaloid is a coach enamel not just car paint.

You can add Terebine to Tekaloid to force faster drying without destroying the characteristics of the paint.

Regards,

Steve.

As I said in my earlier post, I will be doing mine outside.  In light of comments above, does anyone have any thoughts on the minimum temperature I should attempt this?

Point noted re Terebine Steve, thanks.

I would expect to be working on individual panels at a time so may well try to rig some sort of “tent" round the area.  Would keep dust out and allow a blower if needed.

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Steven

Quote: Originally posted by rozinante on 22/12/2004

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As I said in my earlier post, I will be doing mine outside.  In light of comments above, does anyone have any thoughts on the minimum temperature I should attempt this?

The best painting conditions can only be achieved undercover indoors but admittedly this is not always possible.
The correct temperature is important and this should be around 68-72 Fahrenheit, 72 is described as being room temperature. You can paint at lower temperatures but the paint will be too thick and very difficult to manage.

Extreme cold will retard the drying process whereas extreme heat accelerates drying,
This is the reason why room temperature is ideal.

Blow heaters create dust particles which will circulate around the atmosphere, you really need a still painting envioronment for the best possible result.

Try to warm the panel first and throw water on the floor to keep airborne contamination to an absolute minimun.

Regards,

Steve.

Oh dear looks like I might struggle then.

Thanks Steve, I might just cop out and give it a blow over with aerosols then.   Due to age of van I am not too concerned about long term or getting a shine.  Would be nice all in the same colour though.

I remember hearing somewhere about getting larger that usual aerosols filled with choice of colour.  Anyone any ideas?

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Steven

Quote: Originally posted by Paul_B on 25/12/2004

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As previously mentioned you can also use rollers with very satisfactory results with Tekaloid.

Autopaints will fill aerosols in any mixed colour of your choice, But their synthetic coachpaint however is not suitable for high quality workmanship.

Recommending Tekaloid would be the obvious choice for coachwork because not only it is well known it is a traditional coachpaint originally manufactured by Thornley and Knight for over 150 years.

Tekaloid originally formulated as a Linseed Oil base for the application on wooden bodies specifically horse draw coaches and early motor vehicles that had a mixture of metal and wooden panels in there construction.

Kemitone, Valflash and Permobel are less commonly known paints than traditional hand applied Tekaloid coachpaint and I presume far more suitable for spraying fleet vehicles.
Once you start spraying vehicles instead of hand painting you cease to need coachpaint as the faster drying polyurethanes will suffice.

In my experience nearly all the alternative synthetic based coachpaints I've tried so far dry too quickly, The order of the day these days require faster reapplication times but this in not what you would expect to use a traditional hand applied coachpaint for.

If you can apply a layer of paint by hand easily without special equipment, remains flexible yet tough, lasts for about five years before requiring repainting and produces a mirror finish, what more can you want?.

Tekaloid has moved on though it is now Alkyd based which is a tougher resin as opposed to the softer Linseed Oil base and still more than adequate for painting timber and metal stuctures.
You can retard or accelerate Tekaloid drying times in the same way as previously mentioned by using different thinner or adding driers.
Although the object is not to add anything at all to the paint because it can alter the charateristics of the paint.

Steve.

You could try http://www.ameron-bv.com/index.html?url=/products/search_list.html

Ameron now make Tekaloid products, they could put you in the right direction to get some help.

Paul