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I'd agree with Dinkum...Where possible,try to keep it to "manageable" tasks...

(Other wise if you rip too much apart at once, you may end up with a bl**dy expensive hen house!  )

...If you've got some "damaged-but-saveable" timbers, that are perhaps too much of a job to replace, as long as they are dry, it may be worth slapping something like PVA on them and just fix additional strengthening timbers/battens to the sides of them...

The rigidity will soon be restored, once you start fixing(gluing & screwing) the ply sheets/boards in place...

As for removing any units, I would try to keep them as intact as possible..even if you do need to replace the odd bit of framework or mask any visible splits with a bit of moulding...

..and when it's all done, you'll be able to "decorate" it in as cool'n'groovy a style as you want!

Hi Dave..

Last point first..

If the original floor is okay(ish) and dry but just wants "beefing up" a bit, then I would've thought overlaying with new boards/sheets would be okay...especially if ripping out the old one, risks doing more harm than good... 

As for fixing the roof sticks to the cant rail, using premade brackets as you intend, will certainly make things easier(..although I can imagine that in certain positions the brackets may need rebating in, so that the panels will lay flush..).

Not sure what you mean about "pin holes"?...do you mean that the outer skin has holes in it? If so, you'd need to find what caused them first.If it's aluminium skinned and it's corrosion, then it would've probably been caused by the "rotting" timbers.

So...Are these timbers being replaced? If not, then the surfaces that are in contact with the ali' skin, could do with being treated/coated with something(PVA?)to help seal them, before squishing in some beads of Sika'...

As for sealing the skin from the outside..well,I'm not sure to be honest...Maybe brushing on more(undiluted)PVA would do it?

That is probably something you'd need to google...

I have read before now, of some "self-builders"(converting a horsebox etc), using products meant for flat roofed buildings("EPDM"?)..but I've no idea how successful or indeed tidy it looked though..

Chris

I've never used it(or heard of it)but as long as it's suitable for aluminium, it sounds like it may do the job......

(..but I would forget any ideas of going down the, "spot weld, solder or braze", route because that's a real non-starter....  ).

Edit:

Just being a bit curious as what ali' corrosion should be treated with to stop it getting any worse and  I came across various discussions which mention using phosphoric acid..

Here's one: 

http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/sheet-metal/5519-affordable-accessible-corrosion-treatment.html