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Subject Topic: Clicking relay? Near leisure battery Post Reply Post New Topic
PersonFingolas
30/7/2015 at 11:22pm
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Hi,
I have a conundrum I just can't work out for myself or find anything similar on google so was wondering if anyone has any ideas...
In our campervan we have a weico cr50 12v fridge. On the driveway the fridge will run for 3 days on our new 110ah leisure battery... But on last 2 occasions 'in the field' after 36hours maybe, we are getting a clicking noise near the leisure battery when the fridge compressor kicks in.   It does not stop the fridge working but the clicking is very audible and enough to wake me up and just turn the damn fridge for off.
Recently this clicking started with the battery regarding 12.4voltsduring the compressor working... Battery goes back to 12.6/7 there after.
I could understand the clicking if it was a 'warning' that the battery was low (12.1v on compressor activation) but after just 36 hours and 12.5v showing when fridge was drawing is really puzzling??
Is it a relay that's stopping the fridge drawing from the vehicle battery perhaps ? Really confused and hoping someone can put me out of my misery... It's doing my head in not knowing... May have to end up paying an auto electrician to work out just what's what with my campers electrics... Any advice really appreciated.. Thanks


Persontango55
31/7/2015 at 12:20am
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You can't run a fridge on 12 volts independently, only when the vehicle engine is running which charges the leisure battery via a habitat relay therefore the fridge can only be run either on LPG (gas) or 240 volt mains electric for it to function efficiently. What you have done is run the battery down after 3 days to a degree where you have basically knackered your leisure battery and the clicking you can hear is because there is no power left in it. A fully charged leisure battery should read about 13 volts and anything below 12.7 volts needs re-charging. However, because the way a 'deep cycle' leisure battery is designed it will be likely that you won't be able to get it kick started again.


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PersonCapt Lightning
31/7/2015 at 7:49am
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Curious problem... normally a relay needs much less voltage to 'hold' it closed than to close it initially.

Not sure if you've knackered the leisure battery, but I agree that it's a very bad idea to try to run the fridge from 12V when stopped. You really need a 3-way fridge with gas / 230V options and only use 12V when the engine is running.

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I'm tired of reality, so I'm off to look for a good fantasy.


PersonFingolas
31/7/2015 at 8:27am
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Thanks to both for the time taken to reply. Whilst i agree in a perfect world that buying a 3way fridge would be best its our decision at the moment to continue with this compressor fridge as we really only stay away for 2 nights at a time.

Not sure i totally agree that anything under 12.7v is low and needs charging likewise 13v is the reading of fully charged?? Most commentary ive seen says 12.7 full, 12.5 50%.   Leisure batteries are designed as deep cycle so i dont personally see an issue with running it down to 50 / 60% charge (12.4/12.5v). Its fully charged off the vehicle before a weekend away 12.7/12.8v reading.

Curious as to what is actually clicking and why ?? thats the question in a nutshell really.

As mentioned before it makes this clicking noise after about 36hours off grid with a reading of 12.3/12.4v during the compressor activation/ fridge drawing power. The reading goes straight back to 12.6/ 12.7v when the fridge cyles off its compressor running phase.
Thanks again for taking time to reply it is appreciated.


Personiggycamper
01/8/2015 at 2:16pm
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Quote: Originally posted by Fingolas on 31/7/2015Not sure i totally agree that anything under 12.7v is low and needs charging likewise 13v is the reading of fully charged?? Most commentary ive seen says 12.7 full, 12.5 50%.   Leisure batteries are designed as deep cycle so i dont personally see an issue with running it down to 50 / 60% charge (12.4/12.5v). Its fully charged off the vehicle before a weekend away 12.7/12.8v reading.



Agree with you Fingolas - fully charged leisure battery would read around 12.7 volts;but take reading 24 hours after coming off charge.
Your leisure battery readings sound good to me but can't explain the clicking noise without being there to test!
Edit: may be worth checking connections and cable from batt to fridge - high resistance causing a voltage drop could explain some of you symptoms?

Understand your Waeco fridge works off 12 volts only. For what it's worth have met several peeps on sites with same compressor fridge (often fitted to small panel vans where it difficult to fit vents for a 3-way fridge.) All said their leisure battery would be flat within a couple of days if not on ehu. (Some folks fit solar panels to help keep battery charged.)

General point re batts - have always tried to keep leisure battery above 12.2 volts (30% ish)and have never had a battery fail prematurely in 30 years of Motorhoming. ( e.g. lasting at least 5 years; we normally on ehu's also have 90w solar panel which does keep both batteries topped up anyway.)

Note that imho some built-in motorhome chargers are not too good - it may be worth getting an 'intelligent' charger. (Refer Roadpro or similar source of info.)

Also useful info here:

http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/articles/view.asp?id=722

Hope this helps!


Post last edited on 01/08/2015 14:23:15

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Personnavver
02/8/2015 at 10:12pm
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I wonder if it is an under voltage relay to protect the fridge against low voltage. The compressor will draw more current on low voltage eventually causing the motor to overheat.

With the fridge working the voltage will be lower than when the fridge is not working. The load current of the fridge will drag the battery voltage down.


PersonThe Geologist
02/9/2015 at 4:26pm
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It is not the voltage that matters - IF your battery has a charge of less than 50% of its capacity it is in desperate need of charging. What you are drawing is CURRENT and the voltage is the pressure that is being pushed out at. You need to charge the battery, then switch everything off, check the voltage with a voltmeter and leave it for 48 hours then check to see what the voltage is. Less than 12.5 Volts it is almost certainly finished and needs replacing. You cannot run for long with out one as you are causing an imbalance in the charging system - no load and that can then cause other problems. Oh if anyone is dubious about amps being boss - watch Apollo XIII they had the volts it was the amps they needed to allow them to come home. Volts are the pressure the amps are the speed at which it travels.

The clicking of a relay is because the voltage is just enough to cause it to operate but there is insufficient current.


PersonKeithChesterfield
02/9/2015 at 4:48pm
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Your new Leisure battery - what make is it?

The reason I ask is that some batteries are marketed as 'Leisure' but are not quite up to the job that is required of them.

If it's a Banner, Bosch or Varta you've bought wisely but many other makes are not really 'Leisure' batteries but can be just car batteries with fancy labels.


PersonThe Geologist
04/9/2015 at 9:37am
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Keith Chesterfield - Yes the CC did an item a couple of years ago but refused to identify the rogue batteries by name or manufacturer. It would be a help if we knew which makes to avoid.


PersonBill Terry
04/9/2015 at 2:33pm
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You might fine that your charger is giving up. Got a van here on site doing the same thing. So temp measure we have just put a battery charger that can cope for a fortnight. Oh, no clicking.

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PersonKeithChesterfield
04/9/2015 at 5:36pm
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The Geologist -
Everyone seems to have a different opinion on what is the best leisure battery to buy but if you want one that, in theory, should last a few years with minimal maintenance then avoid the cheaper end of the market -

I'm thinking those marked as 'Budget' batteries.
Buy at least one and possibly two if you have the room in the MH and the cash to buy them.

I did a heck of a lot of research online before I bought mine last year and I narrowed it down to Banner, Varta and Bosch.

I bought two Banner Energy Bull 100Ah deep cycle batteries for around £90 each and, with an 80w Solar panel, I've had no problems with them.

I wired up a couple of digital volt meters to the starter and leisure batteries and the reading on the meters have been well up on the readings from the original batteries supplied with the MH.

We were away in France over New Year, no hook up, we've had weekends away in the UK every month through the year and just spent 7 weeks in France with only a few days on EHU and they have performed very well.

Before you buy any battery check its weight, mine are around 25 kilos each, which is usually a good indication that it isn't just an 'upgraded' car battery and make sure whoever sells you the battery hasn't had it on the shelves for any length of time – the bigger the distributor the more likely the battery is relatively new.

Bosch and Varta batteries are well worth considering but whichever one you decide to buy check they will fit in the space you have available before ordering and buying.


Personjim.frome
03/8/2017 at 6:47pm
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Sorry to revive this string but it comes closest to the issue I am having. My relay switches tick away merrily (there are two under the bonnet) without any seeming logic: when both batteries are charged or after a day or two off hook-up. Ticking can happen with the engine and 12v system switched off. Very disconcerting to walk past the van and hear it ticking like mad. I check the 12v battery and it appears to be well charged. I was told to just take the relay switches out if it's bothering me and not worry about it. Really? Help! any ideas?



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