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Topic: Transit Mk2 repairs
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16/9/2005 at 12:55am
Location: Isle of wight Outfit: Ford Transit CI 2.5 diesel
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Hi all,
Everything is progressing, if not slowly.
A bit of background info,...a story! Bought the camper a couple of years ago(ish). I wondered why the heater didn`t work, (a bit parky in the winter!). After investigation, I found that pipe that feeds the heater matrix, was actually blocked-off with a wooden plug. The connector was broken off. Had that fixed, but still the heater gauge read low. Very little heat. Decided to give it a good thrash; it overheated and cracked the head.
After about a year in the garage (to cut a long tale short), got her back.
After various acts of vandalism, which amused the local hoodies for a while. I decided to "do her up a bit". It had become tatty and rust was a nuisance.
Started with the idea of treating the rust and touching-up the paintwork, repairing the wing mirrors etc. There was a large hole in the wing where a radio aerial had been, got that welded up.
It was then that I had trouble matching the paint (previous thread).
Things got out of hand then. A passer-by said "do it right". I thought OK, I will. The cab is now `diamond white. Then began to start inside the cab. The floor is now treated and painted with anti-rust matt black.
Then I took the instrument-cluster out. This was to check the temperature and the fuel gauges. From the wiring diagrams, it appeared that these were somehow connected to each other.
See
PART 2
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16/9/2005 at 1:36am
Location: Isle of wight Outfit: Ford Transit CI 2.5 diesel
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Part 2.
I went to the local Lucas outlet to buy a `temperature sender`. Then it dawned on me that the new engine 2.5Di probably had different things, but the wiring was for the old 2.4 York.
I set up a test for the sender, by checking how the resistance of the thermistor varied with temperature.
Both of the gauges are fed by a voltage stabiliser. This is actually a `vibrator`, which heats a bi-metal strip and constantly switches the battery voltage to the temperature and fuel gauges, and their respective senders.
These `voltage stabilisers` are now obsolete according to Ford. So, off to the breakers I went with no joy. Testing the voltage stabiliser produced some very peculiar results, think it is probably welded to itself inside.
I have made a `vibrator` with components from Maplins. (I used to be an electronic engineer). Simply, it is a square-wave generator with a relay.
I did test the fuel sender, but can`t really calibrate the gauge, because I have no idea how much diesel is in the tank. (It used to read quarter-full, when the tank was empty). From the `net`, it seems that the fuel-sender is around 70 Ohms.
So far, so good-ish. Before putting it back together, I am going to put the wiring in for a leisure battery and put in a tacho, ammeter and volt meters, and an inverter.
I asked a friend how to get the feed for a tacho (rev-counter) on a diesel rig. Apparently the feed is from the `W` terminal on the alternator, and the tachometer needs to be the electronic type.
If any of this any use to anyone, feel free to contact me.
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23/10/2005 at 7:52pm
Location: Isle of wight Outfit: Ford Transit CI 2.5 diesel
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Continuation.
Just about finished the cab now, only door interiors and wing-mirrors to do, I think. The engine started reluctantly, seems it needs the accererator pedal to the floor to start, will get it tuned this week. The tick-over is lumpy and slow. A few minor wiring changes also required.(a connection to the oil switch/light that I am using to feed one of the relays in the leisure battery cicuit provided an `earth` path, via the relay coil, which means the oil light glows dimly).
After lots of smoke the engine warmed-up, and the exhaust was pretty clear....phew!
Regarding the leisure-battery wiring: I have seen lots of wiring diagrams and stuff on the net. Some good, some not good and some downright dangerous. Why there aren`t more burnt-out campers on motorway hard-shoulders, is surprising. Maybe there are darkened patches outside owners houses instead.
The main connection from battery to battery via relay contacts, in most circuits I have seen, is fused at 30A. Why 30A?
If the supplementary batteries are discharged, the surge from the main battery to them will exceed 70A.
Anyway my relay is rated at 160A, and the wiring cable is rated at 130A. No fires here, hopefully.
The rest of the leisure stuff wiring is rated at 30A and fused at 10A. Also the fridge, which is on a seperate circuit.
I will re-wire the 12V stuff in the back and get some new lights. And check the pumps, etc. There is a gas heater which looks very dodgy to me. The khazi needs attention too.
Some sort of sturdy bracket arrangement is required for the spare wheel, the underneath rear thing is carp.
Thats all for now!
I will get away soon!
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24/10/2005 at 2:15pm
Location: Erdington North Birmingham Outfit: ford transit avondale
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hi caulky,..........your motor is hard to start and has smoke when it starts as the injection pump timing needs adjustment,the engine of yours i know has a brand new belt on and your timing is slightly out,a di should start first turn of the key.............you need a timing pin kit to check it or you can use drills............you need to take of the front and rad,remove the fan and a pully wheel,unbolt and remove the black plastic timing case cover........ disconnect the battery..........locate your biggest timing pin in the kit........look under the fuel filter head on you will see a hole it may well have a grey plastic plug in it,if so remove........put the pin in hear,turn the crank with the 36mm socket or spanner and as you do apply pressure to the pin you will fell it slip in...............now look at your camshaft sprocket you should be able to slip one of the smaller pins in here..............now look at the injection pump you should be able to fit a pin in here to....................the injection pump as 3 0r 4 13mm bolts holding the sprocket on,you can loosen them and advance and retard the timing a nats wisker at a time useing a 22mm swan neck spanner or a socket , yopu will know when you have it spot on as the engine will run smothly,tick over well,there will hardly a puff of smoke on starting,the engine noise will be reduced,and ther will be a noticable increase in aceleration ................the garage should of set it up for you ,sounds like they have just chucked the lump in for you,or just could,nt be bothered to do it........................if you need the lend of some pins i will post you a set over best wishes billy in brum ............ :-)
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24/10/2005 at 10:10pm
Location: Outfit:
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Nice advice billybun,,,,,,caulky,,,,,sorry I couldnt give any sensible advice, I know the kind of probs you are are having,my old ex bus smokes 50 A DAY ON STARTUP,leaks oil from every orifice imaginable,(ruining my recently concreted driveway),internal wiring I dare not touch,steering that pulls to near side,rust blebs forming as fast as I fill em & paint,strange noises that fill me with dread when driving,(or was that the OH),rear air suspension that Im sure is going to refuse to inflate one day,etc etc, but you know what,,,,,,,I wouldnt change the old bus for anything,,,,,,,stick at it caulky, looked at your profile,,,,shes worth all the effort,
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24/10/2005 at 10:54pm
Location: Erdington North Birmingham Outfit: ford transit avondale
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hi caulky your timing needs setting up from cold as once the engine is warm it will start from nearly fully advanced to nearly fully retarded,you will soon know when its correct as it will fire up with a flick of the key ,tell the garage to set it from cold,if needs be copy this and the last thread and show them,any mechanic worth his/her salt will know this...........caulky pity you was,nt on the main land i would of done it for you,anyway give them a kick up the **** and tell them to do it right ............................................................jellybelly a mate of mine has one of the renault masters a 2.5 non turbo, the engine knocks like mad,the shock absorber on the O/s has come thro the wheel arch on the rear,it drinks oil and spews it out around the engine bay and like you he wont part with it,he pulls up at houses as hes a gas fitter one of them corgi guys and leaves black oil every where he goes,you could follow the trail wheres hes been lol..........best wishes billy in brum :-)
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26/10/2005 at 12:26am
Location: Erdington North Birmingham Outfit: ford transit avondale
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hi dave (caulky) you hit the nail smack on the head there sir......the early mk2 heaters with a 2.4 in where next to useless...........ford fitted a much better heater in the transit mk 2 face lifts,.............the same heater but with different controls was fitted to mk3 transits ,...............the heat out put is 10 fold better,the early mk2 has a small matrix and rust collects in it,and no matter how many times you wash it thro its still poor, ..............you can put a later mk 2 heater in but you have get someone to cut the metal support frame out in the cab after removing the early heater..............you then line up the later heater drill some holes thro the bulk head for some 2 1/2inch nuts n bolts x4 (useing holes in later heaterbox frame )..............put some sealant round the facing edge to bulk head and bolt in,needs a mate in engine bay to hold nuts or a pair of mole grips does the job,............. i have put later heaters in janets mk2 and tonys mk 2 , the motors are fairly simple to change to should they pack in compared to the early heaters,............some times tho its only down to a corroded fuse in the fuse box as there not the best of fuse boxes ,puting card in front of the rad, putting a hotter thermostat,removing the fan all makes no diffrence to the early heaters..........you must keep antifreeze in your di all year as if you dont the water rusts up and attacks the headgasket etc......... very best wishes billy in brum :-).....................................................................................................mk 3 heaterboxs to do a conversion are ready available from the breakers here in brum at £25
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