Message Forums

Quote: Originally posted by Bernie47 on 15/8/2018

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I modified my Isetta, I fitted a windscreen washer.
It was left hand drive and the gear lever positions were reversed, right and back for first and left and forward for fourth.

The engine was a 300cc single cylinder 4 stroke whereas the Heinkel, Trojan and Messerschmitt bubble cars only had 200cc 2 stroke engines.

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Quote: Originally posted by ST1100 on 15/8/2018

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Mike and Bob ... did the indicators work on BMW's back in those days?

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Quote: Originally posted by blueexpo97 on 16/8/2018

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And here was me thinking this was about brake fluid.

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Quote: Originally posted by Bob61 on 16/8/2018

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6 pages have been gleaned out of a topic on brake fluid...that can't be bad.

I think the opinion was that it is a good idea to change the brake fluid now and then otherwise it can boil if you keep your foot on the brake going downhill.

People who have no mechanical aptitude at all wouldn't be able to change it and probably don't even know where the brake fluid is, so unless the garage changes it, and some garages do and some garages need to be asked and charge you extra, it doesn't get changed, which is highly dangerous if you are in the habit of holding your foot on the brake going down hill...I think it's called 'hotfooting it'.

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Quote: Originally posted by tango55 on 16/8/2018

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Quote: Originally posted by Bob61 on 16/8/2018

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6 pages have been gleaned out of a topic on brake fluid...that can't be bad.

I think the opinion was that it is a good idea to change the brake fluid now and then otherwise it can boil if you keep your foot on the brake going downhill.

People who have no mechanical aptitude at all wouldn't be able to change it and probably don't even know where the brake fluid is, so unless the garage changes it, and some garages do and some garages need to be asked and charge you extra, it doesn't get changed, which is highly dangerous if you are in the habit of holding your foot on the brake going down hill...I think it's called 'hotfooting it'.

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I'm changing the brake fluid in my car in the next few weeks as I've recently bought a one man bleed kit from Halfords at a cost of £5.99. All you need is a jack, a pair of axle stands, a combination ring spanner for the bleed nipple and a new bottle of brake fluid to the spec of your vehicle which mine is DOT 4. I have done it many times before so have the experience of knowing how to proceed, however, they used to advise to do the brake furthest away from the master cylinder first and the next nearest in that order but according to the Volvo Haynes manual it states to do the front right first (nearest the master cylinder) and then the front left and then the rear ones which I believe was the same procedure on the Ford Escort MKII (Haynes manual) if I remember right.
Anybody with any expert knowledge know why there is a specific order to follow as I can't really see that it makes any difference which you do first?

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Quote: Originally posted by Sean on 16/8/2018

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Quote: Originally posted by tango55 on 16/8/2018

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Quote: Originally posted by Bob61 on 16/8/2018

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6 pages have been gleaned out of a topic on brake fluid...that can't be bad.

I think the opinion was that it is a good idea to change the brake fluid now and then otherwise it can boil if you keep your foot on the brake going downhill.

People who have no mechanical aptitude at all wouldn't be able to change it and probably don't even know where the brake fluid is, so unless the garage changes it, and some garages do and some garages need to be asked and charge you extra, it doesn't get changed, which is highly dangerous if you are in the habit of holding your foot on the brake going down hill...I think it's called 'hotfooting it'.

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I'm changing the brake fluid in my car in the next few weeks as I've recently bought a one man bleed kit from Halfords at a cost of £5.99. All you need is a jack, a pair of axle stands, a combination ring spanner for the bleed nipple and a new bottle of brake fluid to the spec of your vehicle which mine is DOT 4. I have done it many times before so have the experience of knowing how to proceed, however, they used to advise to do the brake furthest away from the master cylinder first and the next nearest in that order but according to the Volvo Haynes manual it states to do the front right first (nearest the master cylinder) and then the front left and then the rear ones which I believe was the same procedure on the Ford Escort MKII (Haynes manual) if I remember right.
Anybody with any expert knowledge know why there is a specific order to follow as I can't really see that it makes any difference which you do first?

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I can see how a non return valve can make it easier to do single handed but how do you top up the fluid and pump the brake pedal at the same time?

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Quote: Originally posted by 664DaveS on 17/8/2018

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Easibleed kits are good,you connect the bottle filled with fluid to the master cylinder via a replacement lid then connect kit to spare tyre.
This pressurises the system then you go round opening each bleed valve in turn letting fluid into a jar till no air is present!
I have also see kits that you connect to valve which create a vacuum to pull out air.Ed China used one on Wheeler Dealers.Still need to check level and top up!

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