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 Topic: Unpainting the tow ball.
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03/8/2018 at 11:20am
Location: None Entered
Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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Just finished removing the paint from the spherical head of my new tow ball.
The majority of users have couplings with stabilisers that have friction pads so the ball must be bare metal. And any paint on the ball soon wears off where trailers are towed which require a greased tow ball.
So, why don't the tow ball manufacturers mask the spherical ball during the painting process? For "on the shelf" delay in purchase/usage, the spherical head could be dipped in hot wax for protection against corrosion.
Now clean and bright, my tow ball has its spherical head wrapped in two layers of clingfilm before fitting the gaiter, leaving it protected from bad weather.
Bertie.
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The 2 Tops
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03/8/2018 at 11:43am
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cost - --- its cheaper just to spray the whole thing .....
labour and materials cost.......equals less profit
A chap I know in a local BMW dealership told me that over the years the paint / coatings on fixings haas been reduced not only to comply with EURO rules but to also increase profits as they aren't using as much paint !! The backlash being that more and more customers are now going back to the dealers with rusting fixings !!!!! barmy !!
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03/8/2018 at 11:52am
Location: Lichfield
Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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Masking tape has a sticky backing therefore a stick substance would remain on the ball on removal of the tape and have to be removed with white spirit. If the customer failed to adhere to the advice (as some people never read the instructions) then their stabiliser friction pads would instantly be contaminated. Because of this reason it's easier to prepare just the complete towball then spray it with a protective coating. When the paint is removed the customer has a bright clean metal towball with no further action other than bolt it on to the towbar. Also, as the above post said, it's more cost efficient just to spray the whole towball as well.
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03/8/2018 at 12:37pm
Location: None Entered
Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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I appreciate the cost aspect, but fitness for use should be the priority. I suggested hot dipped wax because this is what is used to protect precision plug gauges, and leaves no discernible residue.
As for failing to follow manufacturer's advice/instructions, DIY removal of the paint is more likely to result in improper preparation than pulling off a skin of solidified wax.
Manufacturers are only obliged to give the necessary instructions to enable the user to meet any required standards to ensure correct use of the product.
The incompetent users are a fact of life, and will always be with us.
Bertie.
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The 2 Tops
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03/8/2018 at 2:45pm
Location: North Norfolk
Outfit: Bailey Olympus
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I've wondered that too, it would simple for the manufacturer to place a cap over the ball prior to spraying or dipped.
Another problem I have is the constant squeaking from the hitch when towing my trailer, as the ball is kept dry from any oil or grease.
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Just saying
If all is not lost where is it then?
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03/8/2018 at 3:06pm
Location: Lichfield
Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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Quote: Originally posted by The 2 Tops on 03/8/2018
I appreciate the cost aspect, but fitness for use should be the priority. I suggested hot dipped wax because this is what is used to protect precision plug gauges, and leaves no discernible residue.
As for failing to follow manufacturer's advice/instructions, DIY removal of the paint is more likely to result in improper preparation than pulling off a skin of solidified wax.
Manufacturers are only obliged to give the necessary instructions to enable the user to meet any required standards to ensure correct use of the product.
The incompetent users are a fact of life, and will always be with us.
Bertie.
Yes, I have also worked in the trade as a toolmaker where tools have to to be protected by dipping in melted wax which then solidifies and makes a perfect barrier from damage. However, prior to dipping, the component has to be dipped in oil first in order for the wax not to stick to the bare metal so the final process is exactly the same whereby the oil has to be removed from the towball first. Fitness for use doesn't come into the equation I'm afraid especially when we are both supposed to be singing from the same song sheet from engineering experience.
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03/8/2018 at 3:57pm
Location: None Entered
Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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Why does it happen to Me? Boo-hoo! After patiently scraping and polishing the tow ball, I stood looking at it and thinking something looked wrong. It's over 14 years since I last had a fixed, flange tow ball (others being swan-neck and detachable), so I took some measurements. Sure enough, the fitter had put on the wrong tow ball - Witter Heavy Duty instead of the Al-ko one.
I had informed the dealership of the need for the specific one that accepts Al-ko stabilisers.
Dealership have arranged for the fitter to come out on Monday and exchange the tow ball. Then I have the pleasure of cleaning off the paint all over again.
Definitely a wine night tonight!
Bertie.
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The 2 Tops
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03/8/2018 at 5:50pm
Location: Liverpool
Outfit: Swift Challenger 560
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Our caravan dealer has a machine that takes it all off in 20 seconds. If you bought a caravan from them they will do it for you any time. Maybe your dealer would do the same?
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Pixie
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04/8/2018 at 9:36am
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Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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Not applicable. I am talking about the dealership who sold me the vehicle, and fitted the towbar - they won't have such a machine because fitting towbars is a very small part of their business.
My way of cleaning the tow ball is to use the blade of a Stanley knife, then finish by polishing with fine emery cloth. Different people will use different methods, but all are ok if the end result is satisfactory.
Bertie.
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04/8/2018 at 11:17am
Location: Lichfield
Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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I would rather purchase a new towball with a new protective coating that takes 15 minutes to remove rather than buy one unprotected with a coat of surface rust. People like yourself would start complaining then that they have a daunting task of cleaning the rust off before use, so no matter which way round it is there's no pleasing in some people. Anyone that buys a new towball is not exempt from the task of the protective paint removal which you make it sound like you should be an exeption of that rule.
15 minutes hard labour with a stanley knife and a bit of wire wool or emery and it's done, finished! so I can't exactly see what the fuss is all about.
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04/8/2018 at 11:35am
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Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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tango55 - I only commented (could be construed as 'mildly complaining') that after cleaning the paint off the tow ball I found they had fitted the wrong tow ball.
"People like myself"? You don't know me, so don't be so judgemental.
"Fuss"? There is no fuss as far as I am aware. I only commented about the mechanic's mistake in fitting the wrong tow ball.
And where does the subject of cleaning a rusty tow ball come from? Not raised by me.
Bertie.
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The 2 Tops
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06/8/2018 at 10:12pm
Location: Chorley
Outfit: Sterling 480 Continental - VolvoV90
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Plenty of good advice on how to remove the paint from a new tow ball.
Just to add, rust on the tow ball is just as bad as paint.
With that in mind, keep a piece of wire wool in a plastic bag in the boot, and give the ball a quick rub before hitching up.
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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left - Seasick Steve 2008
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07/8/2018 at 10:51am
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Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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Before fitting the gaiter, I wrap a couple of layers of clingfilm around the ball. It doesn't entirely prevent rust, but it does slow it down considerably.
Bertie.
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The 2 Tops
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