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Subject Topic: Caravan Nose Weights
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Personmisterg
05/2/2018 at 10:44pm
 Location: East Midlands
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I bought a new Bailey.on collection the nose weight was a little over 100kg.The small print in the manual indicates a max for the chassis of 100kg. Add the calorlite and load up carefully and it is way over .Dealer offered to put it right for £500 .Trading standards sorted it.So what I am saying is that alko put a max for the chassis.So check it out.

-------------
Mister G


Personhdj42
06/2/2018 at 7:55am
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Quote: Originally posted by misterg on 05/2/2018
I bought a new Bailey.on collection the nose weight was a little over 100kg.The small print in the manual indicates a max for the chassis of 100kg. Add the calorlite and load up carefully and it is way over .Dealer offered to put it right for £500 .Trading standards sorted it.So what I am saying is that alko put a max for the chassis.So check it out.


Seeing how critical nose weight is I do think it is under played.
Lot of the literature as all the usual Kerb and laden stuff but very rarely anything about nose weight.

Every van made leaves the factory with a nose weight why this isn’t played on the van and printed on the literature


PersonRob and Tina
06/2/2018 at 8:44am
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Hdj42, the thing is you will never tow it empty so the manufacturers stating a noseweight is pointless really, because as soon as you put a tin of beans at the front or back it will change the noseweight. I have no experience of twin axle vans and how they react to weights being put here or there, but with single axles I explain it as being a see saw so the more you put towards the rear the lighter the front will become (you should never put loads of heavy stuff right at the back). Unfortunately in your case you have a big car that has a light noseweight, if you had a 100kg noseweight it would be easier to achieve the correct noseweight. There is a recommendation that the nose weight for a caravan is between 4-7% of the mtplm and yours works out at 5%, so it's all about loading to get it right.

Tina


Persontango55
06/2/2018 at 9:53am
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Yes, noseweight is critical but it will differ as to how you load your unit like Rob and Tina have said (above post). The battery is a heavy item which mine is near to the front but a 110ah. battery is going to be heavier than an 85ah. battery plus some caravans will have a motor mover fitted as an optional extra which will contribute to a slightly heavier noseweight so it isn't a fixed figure that the manufacturer can apply. You just have to manipulate it by trial and error till you get it right.


PersonJohnnie Boy
06/2/2018 at 10:09am
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Just a thought .. has it got an onboard water tank (full) is the boiler empty.

    


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Personhdj42
06/2/2018 at 12:54pm
 Location: Hampshire
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I agree with all that has been said.

Yes, the boiler was full
No on board tank

However, o can’t text nose weight at the moment because of van location BUT, I was thinking, s I already mentioned when I dropped the hitch onto the car, the car did not drop much more than 2cm from its unhitched position.

But it’s just dawned on me, because of gravel drive I placed the nose weight measuring thing on top of a 6in thick piece of wood which on reflection made the measure pole think a few inches higher than the tow ball, in fact we lowered the jockey wheel further so the hitch had the height to drop onto the measure thing.
So, my simple mind is now thinking that the measuring device should be no higher than the tow ball on the back of the car, is this logical ???


Personhdj42
06/2/2018 at 12:55pm
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Excuse grammar and typos in last post


PersonRob and Tina
06/2/2018 at 1:54pm
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If the boiler was full that will influence the nose weight especially if it is close to the front or back end of the caravan. I would drain the boiler and water system now before you get any frost damage.

Obviously the nose weight should be checked when everything is as level as possible, jacking the front up 6" is not going to give an accurate measurement. Load the caravan with all your equipment etc and measure the noseweight on level ground using a guage or scales and then adjust the noseweight if neccessary. You will find lots of advice on loading on the club websites.


Rob

PS The guage should already be the right height to measure the nose weight and with the caravan lowered on to the gauge the hitch should be roughly the same height as the tow ball on your car. If you need a piece of wood to stop the gauge sinking then use a piece that is only an inch or less thick.


Personblueexpo97
06/2/2018 at 2:07pm
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Quote: Originally posted by hdj42 on 06/2/2018
Excuse grammar and typos in last post


There is a post edit button for use up to two hours after posting for all those pesky little whoopsie's.



-------------
XVI yes?

As well is two words!
How does a sage know everything about everything? or does he? or does he just think he does?
Remember, if you buy something you bought it, not brought it.


Personhdj42
06/2/2018 at 3:54pm
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Thanks Rob, although it was on flat ground we used a 6in thick piece of wood and therefore the gauge was about 3 to 4 in higher than the tow ball 🙏


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Persontango55
06/2/2018 at 4:08pm
 Location: Lichfield
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If you use a proper noseweight gauge instead of faffing about with bits of wood etc. then you eliminate any factors that lead to incorrect measurements. If you are a novice then that's all the more reason why you should obtain the right tools for the job.
However, all the above posts with understanding noseweight can be easily solved by just one video that explains everything in detail.


Here


Personmisterg
06/2/2018 at 4:39pm
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In my case I could not get the nose weight down by back loading.
A special kit was available to move the spare wheel carrier back. It was also necessary to move the motor mover to back of axle.

-------------
Mister G


Persontango55
06/2/2018 at 4:49pm
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Quote: Originally posted by misterg on 06/2/2018
In my case I could not get the nose weight down by back loading.
A special kit was available to move the spare wheel carrier back. It was also necessary to move the motor mover to back of axle.


I think the OP has a twin axle so you need a motor mover on both axles (front and rear of wheels).


Personfreeatlast
06/2/2018 at 5:08pm
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Quote: Originally posted by Ray Clayton on 05/2/2018

My gas bottles x 2 are further back but in front of front wheels. along with motor mover which does not help with my nose weight.


The motor mover will have very little effect on the nose weight of the van being very close to pivot point between the wheels which would be the centre of gravity if there was zero noseweight.

To reduce noseweight, move/reduce weight of items close to the nose.


Personfreeatlast
06/2/2018 at 5:20pm
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deleted, double post


PersonRay Clayton
06/2/2018 at 6:48pm
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Tango
My motor mover is sited forward of the front wheels.
And you do not need a mover on both axles. But if you have it will give better control in tight spaces.

Freeeatlast.
A motor mover in a forward position of the front axle does affect nose weight.





-------------
Cheers
Ray

Discovery 4 & Bailey Barcelona 4








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