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Subject Topic: AKS 1300 and BPW, (colchester 1150/2)
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31/8/2019 at 1:26pm
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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The towball should be horizontally in line with the reversing sensors (if they are positioned in the rear bumper) so the stabiliser bracket will be far below that and won't be detected. If you have a fixed flange towball fitted, all you need to do is borrow or buy a drop plate and fix it between the towball flange and towbar as do a temporary test which will prove if the stabiliser bracket will interfere with the sensors or not.
I bought a brand new unused drop plate which cost about a fiver a few years just in case I ever need it for that reason.


31/8/2019 at 2:06pm
 Location: Nottingham
 Outfit: Citroen C4 Hatch-Swift Challenger 480
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Hi Tango 55, thanks again for your help and advice. I actually have one of those I bought years ago, quite chunky and heavy as I remember. I also remembered, just after I typed the last message / question, that on my last car, the stabiliser plate, (which I let go with the car as I didnt think we would ever tow again), went between the two ball and bar as usual, but had the slot for the blade stabiliser at the bottom, directly under the towball, and not to the right as they usually are, and if I remember right, I may have an old one the same up the shed... Time to go hunting for treasure, will let you know if I find it, thanks again for getting back to me, Tony.


31/8/2019 at 2:29pm
 Location: Scotland
 Outfit: None Entered
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Quote: Originally posted by Anthony Thornton on 31/8/2019
Thanks for the advice, I almost certain that I want to go with the old bladed type stabiliser now, I have used them several times on previous vans and always felt confident with them.                           
                                                    
Now that I am convinced, that it is highly unlikely the tow ball will be seen by the sensors, and the electrics can be hidden / fitted lower, or bolted to the tow bar itself and so not seen, the only last worry I have now, is will the bracket that the bladed type fits into, (that usually bolts to the same bracket as the tow ball), be seen by the sensors? it only stick slightly to the right, and slightly lower down, hopefully it won’t be seen? Any help or advice would be gratefully received, Tony.


If choosing a blade type stabiliser, have a towbar fitted with a flanged towball as the clamp on bracket fitted to swan neck towbars cannot be clamped on tight enough to prevent the bracket from twisting.



-------------
mm48j


31/8/2019 at 2:32pm
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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The stabiliser bracket where the blade slot went to the right was the Bulldog brand which was made from cast steel but the Breckland brand had a bracket which was fabricated and welded to a plate identical to a drop plate (minus 2 x 16mm. holes) directly under the towball itself. The blade was then locked and secured via a tommy bar, that's why I suggested a drop plate because it's method is identical to that of the Breckland.


31/8/2019 at 5:40pm
 Location: Nottingham
 Outfit: Citroen C4 Hatch-Swift Challenger 480
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Hi marramc48, thanks for the info on the blade type and swan necks. Yes I know what you mean, I was thinking of going for a detachable as I was worried about the reversing sensors, but when I looked at the snake master clamps, (and some others), they all looked very flimsy and like they would malfunction, but I do want to stay with a blade type, I know from experience how good they can be, (see links below, hopefully they work)

Hi Tango55, I have found the drop plate we mentioned earlier, large flat plate with 6 holes, and also the bracket plate of same size, same number of holes, but with the bracket at the bottom, both buried in the shed. I could not find the Tommy Bar, but found a Bolt that would fit, but quite tight, had to use a spanner on every single turn, so will try and get a new one, they do them on Amazon, but they don’t look as robust as this one.                                          
                                                      
A few years back on the way to the coast with the van on the back, and we had a puncture or blow out and I didn’t even know it. The car in front slowed down with hazard lights on and stopped twice, and then pulled off again, I said to the missus what he playing at, he stopped again and then cars coming towards m were flashing their lights, I glanced to the right, and I am not kidding, I saw my tyre rolling down the road smoking!!
When I got out it was more or less running on the rims, and I never felt a thing, that was using a blade type stabiliser! Hopefully the link to the picture of what was left on the wheel will show okay below, if not, I will try and add it direct to the site, it looks well frightening! The other two links are to pictures of the 2 plates I just found in the shed, Tony.



https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13178860_10207754159866919_240298176........

Blowout

https://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/gallimages/large_487234_1.jpg?nocache=15519

Bracket

https://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/gallimages/large_487234_3.jpg?nocache=6642

Plate

https://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/gallimages/large_487234_2.jpg?nocache=12747

Post last edited on 31/08/2019 17:54:07


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10/9/2019 at 1:05am
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: Swift charisma Skoda Scout 4x4
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Quote: Originally posted by Anthony Thornton on 27/8/2019
Hi Julia, thank you for your reply. I dont think I explained properly. The reason I wanted the detachable tow bar is so it wont interfere with the sensors when I am not towing anything, and remove it. I believe the towball mount is below the sensors and set back behind them so wont be seen. My main query, is can I fit an alko aks 1300 to the bpw chassis on my small colchester 1150/2 van



No towbar or ball will interfere with the sensores



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