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Subject Topic: Tips for Twin Axle Motor Movers Please!! Post Reply Post New Topic
30/7/2007 at 9:01pm
 Location: Lancashire
 Outfit: Compass Rallye 636 & Shogun LWB
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Joined: 15/7/2007

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Read quite a few topics from those with motormovers fitted to TA vans, not being able to turn quite as effectively as a single axle.

We, like many others, chose not to go for the 4 motor version (weight, ground clearance, cost etc), so the turning circle isn't amazing.

The Truma one looks after the tyres quite well, to the point where it turns-forward-turns-forward etc.

I've read advise to lower the jockey wheel almost to the floor and stick someone inside at the front to take weight off the back wheels (motors fitted to front wheels).

Any other advice from experienced please?????

Also, are these movers strong enough to drive onto ramps? thinking of lengths of wood stacked at say 2" steps?

cheers!!



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01/8/2007 at 12:03pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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With twin axles, there is always a sideways drag when turning.  The severity of this varies according to forward speed.  Motor movers are very slow, so the drag would be significant.  Some site owners are beginning to ban twin axles from their grass.

Our van is single axle.  For levelling, we use a plastic wedge shaped ramp and chock.   To get the wheel onto the ramp, I only operate the motor driving that wheel (turn left button).  Manually pulling sideways on the hitch can assist the motor.  Then, when the wheel is chocked, I operate the turn-right button to straighten up the van.

Bertie. 



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The 2 Tops


05/8/2007 at 9:19pm
 Location: Worthing
 Outfit: Bailey Ranger 620 6 Frontera Estate
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I discussed fitting a motor mover to my new twin axle with the dealer and his recommendations were that the mover be fitted to drive the rear wheels and that the hitch was raised as high as possible to take weight off the front axle to reduce the drag described by THE 2 TOPS.
Even if you don't have a motor mover it is a handy tip to get the nose up as high as possible if you are trying to man-handle the van into position.
Decided to wait a while and see if i can improve my reversing skills enough to avoid the outlay.


08/8/2007 at 10:55am
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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Quote: Originally posted by jonespa on 05/8/2007


I discussed fitting a motor mover to my new twin axle with the dealer and his recommendations were that the mover be fitted to drive the rear wheels and that the hitch was raised as high as possible to take weight off the front axle to reduce the drag described by THE 2 TOPS.
Even if you don't have a motor mover it is a handy tip to get the nose up as high as possible if you are trying to man-handle the van into position.
Decided to wait a while and see if i can improve my reversing skills enough to avoid the outlay.
Although not experienced with Twin axle vans, I cannot agree with your dealer on the positionong of a mover.  (a) This would substantially increase the weight on the jockey wheel, and it would be more liable to "dig in", especially on soft ground.  (b) The mover would be BEHIND the rear wheels, and get maximum water/dirt/mud thrown onto the drive units in bad conditions.

I would suggest that the mover be fitted to the front wheels (as normal). To reduce drag when turning, lower the jockey wheel as far as possible to take weight off rear wheels.

It would be advantageous if van makers fitted a mechanism to wind up the rear wheels of twin axle vans to make manoeuvring easier.

Bertie.



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The 2 Tops


08/8/2007 at 10:01pm
 Location: Worthing
 Outfit: Bailey Ranger 620 6 Frontera Estate
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Extract from TRUMA UK web page:

# The motors are positioned immediately before or behind the axle
# All Mover components are protected against water spray and corrosion

From my (individual) experience moving my twin axle by hand it is easier to maneuver with the hitch raised as high as possible than if the hitch is lowered or in the horizontal position. I am also intrigued as to what the weight difference seen at the jockey wheel would be based upon the height difference of the hitch. Surely if you raise the hitch as high as possible you are tilting the center of gravity towards the rear of the van and hence the downward force applied to the jockey wheel will actually reduce? I feel a practical experiment coming on during my next outing.
The key point is to minimize the amount of friction created by the undriven set wheels. How one achieves this will be down to individual experience and trial and error.


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09/8/2007 at 8:44am
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: Swift Challenger Sport 524 VW Carave
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Quote: Originally posted by jonespa on 08/8/2007


Extract from TRUMA UK web page:

# The motors are positioned immediately before or behind the axle
# All Mover components are protected against water spray and corrosion

From my (individual) experience moving my twin axle by hand it is easier to maneuver with the hitch raised as high as possible than if the hitch is lowered or in the horizontal position. I am also intrigued as to what the weight difference seen at the jockey wheel would be based upon the height difference of the hitch. Surely if you raise the hitch as high as possible you are tilting the center of gravity towards the rear of the van and hence the downward force applied to the jockey wheel will actually reduce? I feel a practical experiment coming on during my next outing.
The key point is to minimize the amount of friction created by the undriven set wheels. How one achieves this will be down to individual experience and trial and error.
Not true.  Consider it like this.  Even on a twin axle van, the weight will be biased towards the jockey wheel.  If you lower the jockey wheel, the pressure on the jockey wheel is the weight of that part of the van in front of the front axle, partly relieved by the counterbalance of the weight behind the front axle.

But if you raise the jockey wheel, there is more weight on the jockey wheel, because it is lifting the weight between it and the rear axle(more weight), whilst any couterbalance at the rear is reduced, because of the shorter distance between rear axle and rear of van.  So the weight on the jockey wheel increases.

To simplify this, think of moving the axle of a single axle van.  Move it forwards = less weight on jockey wheel.  Move it backwards = more weight on jockey wheel.  In principle, this is the effect you are trying to achieve with a twin axle van, by biasing the load to one axle.

Bertie.



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The 2 Tops


09/8/2007 at 6:39pm
 Location: Worthing
 Outfit: Bailey Ranger 620 6 Frontera Estate
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Did a bit of ringing around today and got a mixed bag of responses.
A lot of companies will not be held down as to the best location for a motor mover on a twin axle van stating it was up to individual choice. A lot highlighted that a mover fitted to the rear of the 2nd axle on a twin may require the under slung spare wheel carrier to be removed.
More worrying was the response received when asked about raising or lowering the jockey wheel to relieve friction on one of the axles. A lot of respondents stated that it may cause a twisting action of the chassis which may cause damage to the van as the load is designed to be shared by the two axles.
The most common response when asked which type of mover offered the best performance for a twin was one that could pulse the inner wheel while the outer wheel conducted the turning motion, such as the Truma TE. No coincidence that this the priciest then!

Big Up to Bertie, I do like to math debate, sorry, debate maths!

I think I'll wait and see if any more responses are forth coming before laying out for a mover.


17/6/2018 at 9:38am
 Location: None Entered
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It totally depends on your terrain that your van is on -
Mine is on gravel so I have my caravan level and most importantly a pneumatic tyre. As I turn I push the caravan on the side to help move it -
It works really well.
I can see Theoretically lowerering jockey wheel to get move traction on mover but don’t think it’s neccessary



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