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Subject Topic: Stabiliser
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PersonWarrigal
22/2/2015 at 11:58am
 Location: SE Kent
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just aquired a Swift Accord 1998, there is no stabiliser bracket fitted to the A frame, I prefer to tow with a stabiliser and in fact have a couple, is there any problem attaching one to the frame, it is an Alko chassis I believe and mention is made about invalidating a guarantee if the galvi on the chassis is ruptured, so is there a clamp type fitting, or do I just use an ordinary bolt on one? don't think I am to worried about a guarantee on a 16/17 yr old van! just seeking views kind regards

as an aside there is comment in the caravan mag this month about the need for a particular ball hitch when usung the alko stabiliser hitch, views etc,


Personbilly
22/2/2015 at 12:21pm
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If you want to fit blade type stabiliser then ok to drill side of chassis, its top & bottom that should not be drilled. It would be easier to fit an Alko stabiliser hitch though. Easy diy fit if you can use spanners.

If you do fit Alko stabiliser hitch then you do need compatable flange ball which is longer & deeper than standard flange ball. If you have swan neck towbar then thats ok. If you fit blade stabiliser then you are ok with standard flange ball.


PersonJTQU
22/2/2015 at 1:18pm
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Quote: Originally posted by Billy x on 22/2/2015If

you want to fit blade type stabiliser then ok to drill side of chassis, its top & bottom that should not be drilled. It would be easier to fit an Alko stabiliser hitch though. Easy diy fit if you can use spanners.




Al-Ko themselves, who probably know their own product better than contributors here, give this advice:

DRILLING OR WELDING OF
PARTS OR ACCESSORIES
The chassis is designed and built to precise tolerances and
must not be drilled or welded (except in accordance with
certain AL-KO Accessory Operating Instructions).

http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/handbooks/caravanchassishandbookwhite.pdf

There is a purpose made clamp on accessory for certain blade "stabilisers", to suit this very highly stress area of the chassis.


PersonGrampian91
22/2/2015 at 2:58pm
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Don't drill it, buy a clamp on bracket for the A-Frame.

They are readily available and not expensive.


Personkazo2014
22/2/2015 at 3:12pm
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does it even need one fitting? surely on a caravan of that age it already has the stabiliser already on? the big red handle thing is a stabiliser you know?


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Personbilly
22/2/2015 at 3:18pm
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Most blade stabilisers I've seen are bolted through chassis. My caravan, 80s, has stabiliser attachment point bolted on although I don't use it. As Alko puts it, ok in accordance with instructions. The general rule with drilling chassis is that you can drill sides but not top & bottom.


PersonGrampian91
22/2/2015 at 10:26pm
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The ALKO chassis handbook that came with my van states not to drill holes in it anywhere.


PersonHacksaw Bob
22/2/2015 at 10:43pm
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Quote: Originally posted by Warrigal on 22/2/2015
...as an aside there is comment in the caravan mag this month about the need for a particular ball hitch when usung the alko stabiliser hitch, views etc,


If you mean the article on P67 of Camping and Caravanning (March), I think Billy probably explained that in the first response to your original post, ie if you have an ALKO stabiliser hitch you need either the bolt-on one with the extra clearance, or a "swan neck" one.


PersonGrampian91
22/2/2015 at 11:46pm
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This is the difference between a standard ball and an ALKO one. Swan neck and detachable balls are ALKO compatible.

Why do they bother with the older design?   ALKO copyright?


PersonWarrigal
24/2/2015 at 8:50am
 Location: SE Kent
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it also looks to stand a little further off the towbar flange,
yes I do know what an Alko Hitch is, no I do not have one on the van, my thoughts are it was probably removed by a p/o, therefore no attachment to chassis, Alko probably advise not drilling the chassis because of the galvi rupture
and yes I can weild spanners my hobby is rebuilding classic m/cycles but at present in addition there is a 2A Land Rover slowly coming together,
thanks for the replies though, I will investigate the clamp on type first, kind regards


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PersonJTQU
24/2/2015 at 6:51pm
 Location: Hampshire
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Quote: Originally posted by Warrigal on 24/2/2015
Alko probably advise not drilling the chassis because of the galvi rupture



First they don't
"advise not drilling the chassis" they make a very much more clear cut statement "must not be drilled ".

I doubt greatly that breaking the galvanised coating is high on their concerns, I am sure it is all about weakening the structural member, together with at the same time creating a local stress concentration.


Personromany girl
25/2/2015 at 7:34am
 Location: Derbyshire
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Much better to buy the clamp on bracket for around £14, than to risk damaging the safety of your caravan, and also possibly invalidating your insurance cover by making a modification to your caravans running gear that is contary to the manfacturers advice both for the stabilizer and the chasis of your caravan.

Our old Lunar Zenith was fitted with a Bulldog leaf stabilizer via a clamp on bracket to the A-Frame. This was done by Don Amott caravans workshop on the day we collected it, we watched the technitian fit it, and was told that to drill any part of the A-Frame was a strict no-no, and breach of the safety of our caravan.

We removed the lot when we traded it in last year, and now have a full set including the clamp on bracket in the garage and for sale if anyone wanted it, but the best bit was that we did not get any problems with trading in a caravan that had modifications done to its chassis by drilling through it, as once the bracket was removed it was back to its original state.

Julia

-------------
Just love to be out amoungst Nature and Wildlife

Celebrating 37 years of Caravanning in 2019, Recently Considered Retiring, but Totally Addicted for Life!


Personnaturlist123
25/2/2015 at 8:52pm
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When fitting a blade type stabiliser like bulldog's it comes with fitting instructions as to where and what size holes to drill in "A" frame this is all worked out before hand so you do not weaken "A" frame. You are best using stainless steel bolts of correct size a little dearer but no rust.
most bolts provided are sheraldised not galvanised which is a form of electro-plating and rust quickly.

Alko do a bog standard pressed steel tow hitch like type fitted to readymade trailers.

But if you fit Alko 340 or Winterhof 380 hitch which are fitted with internal clutches to stop snaking ETC. they are costly, not so short of £360, but blade type which is more involved hitch and unhitching are about £100

The choice is yours, I know what I would fit due to experience of towing using all types, I would not even think of a blade.
You could always look for a second hand from caravan dismantler.

PS with a 98 chassis I think you will find quite a bit of galvanic action on your chassis and steadies even rust. unless painted with a rubberised paint which stops the galvanising from shedding paint.

Post last edited on 25/02/2015 21:07:01


PersonLobeyDosser
26/2/2015 at 1:38am
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Having towed with all types of stabilisers, I far prefer the Blade Type and am currently using a Bulldog 2000.

The blade type is much easier to set up correctly and yearly maintenance is a doddle.

-------------
Lobey.


Personsteve mx
14/3/2015 at 10:24pm
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gotta say our caravan is old 1989 !! but still works and we have a lot of fun in it. it came fitted with the alko hitch but as was our first caravan was unsure how efective they are, my dad an ex caravaner gave me a scott stabiliser bar which we fitted and away went no problems, on one 75 mile return journey hitched up but forgot to clamp down hitchlock but bar was in place an didnt miss a beat, didnt tell the mrs tho !! however when we changed tow vehicle went away once with just the alko and noticed more movement than normal so if only one would choose the bar type, but we use both anyway !!


Personandy monty
15/3/2015 at 11:36am
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Remember a2 stainless has a lower tensile strength than standard 8.8 bolts



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