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Subject Topic: New tow car, what do I need? Post Reply Post New Topic
22/8/2018 at 11:37am
 Location: North Wales
 Outfit: Elddis
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We have a Kia Carens 2.0 CRDi and before buying caravan we looked up the tow weight, except for automatic and EX and LX models it showed 1500 or 1600 Kg so we got a caravan unladen 1250 laden 1350 kg well within limits and it tows it fine, even on relatively steep hills.

However went to change address on the log book and find that states max tow weight 1250 kg hunted for a plate on car and could not find one giving weights, I think error on log book, however this has prompted us to look for new tow car.

My wife wants one which does well to gallon, so looking at newer models, seems 2013 there was a law change which has resulted in many cars becoming more efficient after that date.

However one of the ways to make them more efficient was to change how the alternator is controlled. To date we have not connected either ignition or non ignition supply to caravan. However it seems prudent to start using the fridge power from car, and maybe charging.

However it seems rather expensive! A Ring RSCDC DC to DC charger will set me back around £175 it will take a solar panel as well, but once fitted to the caravan it will remove the need for a blocking diode on the car, or a voltage dependent relay, however may need a relay for fridge, I seem to remember they draw around 8A which should be OK. And the caravan relay means the inverter is connected to non ignition supply once ignition is switched on, so two inline fuses is really all that is required.

However the Ring does switch off when donor supply drops to 12.6 and needs 13.1 volts to restart, there is clearly some volt drop to caravan and to be able to connect solar panels clearly it has to be fitted to caravan not car. 30A is a fair charging rate, so big question is with alternators controlled by engine management will the voltage drop to a point where the charger cuts out?

It is designed for the job, but so were split charging diodes and voltage dependent relays, both which were useless.

So is it worth it, and do I go for a car where alternator is not controlled by engine management as they make better tow cars.

As yet tow car not bought, so I can reject cars if they are a problem.


22/8/2018 at 12:55pm
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ok first of all can you give the year of your current car, then I can look it up properly for you, and then the make and model and year of the caravan

next, I think you are getting yourself into somewhat of a tiz over the power for the fridge etc, the car will only run the fridge when the ignition is on and the revs are at about 1200 (moderate driving speed) so no using it on site. same with charging the battery, that will only happen when you are actually on the move.

slightly confussed by your remark "tows it fine, even on relatively steep hills." but then " To date we have not connected either ignition or non ignition supply to caravan", so how can you have towed it without the electrics connected up?



23/8/2018 at 10:49pm
 Location: North Wales
 Outfit: Elddis
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There are two sockets, towing lights are all but one on the N socket which is wired up. The S socket does reversing lights and internal power, we did not have this socket wired up.

We have now changed tow car and there is no connection between engine management and alternator so no real worries about charging.

I do however to make up my mind, no charging, anti reverse charge controlled by car or caravan. I think if I am going to charge caravan battery from car then likely I will do it in the caravan.



24/8/2018 at 5:49am
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without the grey lead plugged in you wont have reversing lights, I find this point more important than running the fridge or charging the battery,last thing you want to do is to have to reverse back in traffic and the only way the car behind you knows what yours doing is when that big white box of yours starts to nudge his nice shiney car!

just get the car sorted properly and be done with it


24/8/2018 at 1:57pm
 Location: Shropshire
 Outfit: Bailey Phoenix GT 75
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The caravan usually has a car/caravan changeover switch or you simply switch off the caravan supply.
The car,if wired correctly will have relays which ensure that current to the van battery (and fridge if on 12v),is only supplied when the engine is running.
The smart alternators deliver power according to the load demand.

-------------
DS-There's more to life than football!!!


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24/8/2018 at 6:31pm
 Location: Midlands
 Outfit: Mondeo Avondale Gram
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The 2013 law change is now about the MPG its about the emissions. If an old car produced 200g of CO2 then the new car may produce less but the actual MPG could be worse.

It still produces a shed load of CO2, but then other parts will help clean that up, often by doing a regeneration which burns a lot of fuel.

They dont work out the average MPG during a regeneration. So a newer model may use even more fuel.

You cannot run the fridge on a battery that is not being charged by the alternator.

Inverters are not that efficient, Pulling 120watts from an inverter could see approx 160 watts drained from the battery. 40 watts of wasted power.

I think your a bit confused about the alternator being controlled by the ECU. Its not going to save a load of power and it will add a load of extra components that could fail. Instead of a simple pulley (possibly with a clutch) then you need a switched pulley, Similar to the aircon pulley. The clutches in AC pulleys fail. So the same will happen to the alternators.

Where is thwe 30A charge rate from? My cars alternator can put out 125amps and can exceed 18volts in extreme load conditions.





24/8/2018 at 6:35pm
 Location: North Wales
 Outfit: Elddis
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Moved to KIA Sorento so no problem with smart alternators, it is only one year younger than old car, but has a 3000 kg towing capacity.

It only has one socket, so I will fit a second socket, not sure as yet what to do about charging? I could simply not bother, still need second socket for reversing light and fridge, but latter only draws 8A so simply connect to boot cig lighter supply.

It is the non ignition supply which is more important to consider, there are a lot of lights in the caravan so the draw could be quite high, and if I do fit a DC to DC inverter then it could draw 40 plus amps.

Clearly this will need a fuse to stop over loading the cable. Although BS7671:2008 stipulates 2.5 mm sq for most cores, and really I could do with 4 mm sq, I am having problems finding any for sale.

It is made Batt cables part number 37794 is 5 core flexible cable 4 mm sq there is also 7 core but only need 5 core. However finding some one who will sell 2 meters of the cable is something else.

Minimum cross sectional area for the BS AU 149a socket is 1.5 mm² except for earth which is 2.5 mm² but for the BS AU 177a socket it is 2.5 mm² for 4 of the cores and 1.5mm² for reversing light.

But I can't find it for sale as a 2 meter length, 30 meters is a bit of over kill when I only want 2 meters.

   


24/8/2018 at 8:24pm
 Location: West country
 Outfit: Mondeo
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Modern caravans have a habitation relay which acts to prevent the caravan leisure battery trying to start the car. I believe it is voltage operated. I think it was introduced around 1998 but not sure.

With engine running all the caravan internal electrics are isolated by it except battery charging and fridge 12 volt supply.

With engine stopped and 12s plug connected to car, all the caravan internal 12volts runs from the car. The fridge 12 volt element and leisure battery are isolated.

I have a solar panel and controller (Truma system) on the caravan, but this only raises the battery charge voltage to 13.8volts.



05/9/2018 at 10:23am
 Location: North Wales
 Outfit: Elddis
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It took me some time to reverse engineer what the caravan does. However no electronics so relays are not voltage activated, other than the point where they would drop out as not enough volts to coil, there is nothing in the caravan to prevent power being supplied to the car on pins 3 and 4 of the BS AU 177a 7 pin plug where there is power to pins 6 and 7. I have tested this using small 7 Ah batteries.

It is clearly designed so that power on 6 and 7 (ignition supply) will power the fridge and a relay which in turn connected pins 3 and 4 to battery.

Without power to pins 6 and 7 but with power to pins 3 and 4 (i.e. ignition turned off) then the caravans internal lights work from pins 3 and 4.

There were normally relays or diodes fitted to the car to stop caravan powering car, but not in the caravan. How it was done in the car depends on the car.
The blocking diode will always work, however the volt drop means battery charging is nearly non existent in most cases.
The relay connected to alternator warning light was the next.
Then the voltage dependent relay.
However some cars have a aux on the ignition and no relays are required.

Today the problem is with a DC to DC inverter in the caravan you don't need anything in the car, in fact with modern cars switching off alternators it could be dangerous to have a voltage activated relay in the car, as it could stop the supply to the anti snake device. I don't know what is done in the car today? I would guess normally closed contacts which open when starter is engaged? or return to blocking diodes which would seem best option.

The problem is trying to match every car to every caravan, and this is nothing new. In the early days of the 7 pin plug pin 2 was for the vacuum warning light, since caravans did not have vacuum brakes, it was common to use pin 2 for a live supply to caravan.

Then we got caravans with an electric reversing hitch, so pin two was connected to the reversing light so it disengaged brakes when cars were put into reverse. Then the law on rear guard fog warning lights came in, so yet again pin 2 use changed to rear guard fog warning.

So we got the second 7 pin socket, reverse went onto pin 1 and we used the rest for power, often two ignition feeds and one non ignition, however there are still the odd trailers found which still need vacuum or air warning lights. So official pin 2 is classed "Coding for coupled trailer" which reduces the power supply to two, rules also state fridge and battery charging should not come from same supply, so to comply we got the relays in the caravan.

So the rules only state Continuous power supply and Power supply controlled by ignition switch it does not say any diode or relay is required, in the old days it would be down to the auto electrician to decide what to do. However today we are often forced to use manufacturers harnesses and relays in the car, no longer is it left to the electrician.

I have not fitted a manufacturers harness, it hardly needs an auto electrician to do that, it is plug and play, and I stopped working as an auto electrician around 1994 and even then I was working on the big stuff, like straddle carriers which lifted and carried 200 ton, not cars and caravans.

So I need to update my skills to work with modern car, it not how to make something work, I can do that, it is how to make it interchangeable which is the problem. If I wire my Kia Sorento then I can tow my caravan without a problem, but what happens when some one says "Can you move my caravan for me please, my cars in garage." If I plug in the S socket which if there is an anti snake device fitted I must, what then stops my car drawing from the caravan battery?

Again we have the situation where there is no standard wiring, and if I am going to wire the tow car, I want it as standard as I can make it. The annoying thing is 2.5 mm 7 core cable is not easy to find, so will need to wire using twin core, that's not so much of a problem as I can then use 4 mm up to engine compartment.

The next is rear view camera, what plug is used for them? I can clearly use any plug in stock and likely a coax plug as used for ham radio aerials would be good enough. But what is the standard?      


05/9/2018 at 8:15pm
 Location: Teesside
 Outfit:  Mitsubishi ASX4
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You are completely overthinking this. As far as the voltage activated relay, and alternators, you are completely wrong.

This is exactly the system I have, and the ATC starts up as soon as I plug the electrics in, even though the engine is not running. The relay is set to cut out at a lower voltage than the voltage required for the alternator to start up again. In the case of my car, according to the towbar electrics fitting instructions, this is 12.6 volts.

Its been many years since there was any electrical link to the alternator for relay sensing. In one of my cars, the correct relay sensing came from one of the wiper motor connections. On my current car there is a plug in the wiring harness tucked in an almost impossible to find place in the engine bay. Where it links into, heaven only knows.

Towbar wiring is now an established standard for either 13pin or 12N and 12S wiring. Easily sourced on the internet.

Frankly from your lack of up-to-date knowledge which is demonstrated throughout your post, I would buy a manufacturer's 13 pin wiring kit and fit that. I suspect it will be a lot cheaper than your rather strange wiring ideas.

Rear view cameras generally use BNC connectors which are crimped on with a specific BNC crimp tool.




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