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Subject Topic: charge leisure battery in car boot
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18/1/2006 at 5:52am
 Location: Southampton
 Outfit: Elldis avante524
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Hi all.

Been reading this thread with interest as we started to visit sites with no elecs last year for the first time.

Not to clever on elecs so please excuse me!

I made a lead that runs form my tow bar 12s socket to my spare battery in the back of the car, so as I believe it will charge when I'm driving along.

When I park up by the caravan, I dissconect this lead, and use another lead from the spare battery to the caravan grey plug.

Some times I swop the batteries over.

Is this a good system?

Also while driving, I plug my power battery pack into the ciggarete socket to charge up.

Now as I'm charging two batteries at the same time(also the cars) does this mean they take longer to charge, rather then one at a time?

The comment someone mentioned about useing a battery charger fixed to an-invertor, does this charge the battery up quicker?, as one problem we find is that we don't actually use the car much when away, prefer to cycle, walk or lie on a sunny beach all day!

Many thanks in advance

Tim



18/1/2006 at 10:11am
 Location: Hampshire
 Outfit: Hymer Nova S
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Tim,

Charging via an inverter and a charger specifically designed for a leisure battery is not going to be quick, as the current is regulated to a level to protect the battery. But as discussed below there is more to this than charging rates.

My charger is a 4amp unit. Another well regarded unit, the CTEX 3600 [http://www.vertar.com/product.asp?P_ID=238] is a 3.6 amp device. The car alternator by comparison is likely to be at least 45 amps [Mine is 75]. This though has potential to damage a leisure battery.

Using the inverter/charger potentially can get the battery to 100% full and offers protection from both over current and over charging, gassing etc. The method you use is unregulated and the charging current can be both very high or low depending on the varying state of charge of your starter battery and the voltage drop of the wiring. Potentially with the massive current available you could damage your battery if is coupled when its charge state is low.

With the inverter/charger arrangement you can also take some power from the car battery whilst the car is parked as long as you exercise caution. Typically you can take up to 20% of a fully charged batteries power and still be confident of starting. I will give an example using my vehicles data together with conservative allowances. Battery is 110 AmpHr, say take just 10%; 11AmpHr. If I give the inverter/ charger a 75% overall efficiency I will need 5.33 amp to charge at 4 amps, therefore I can leave things set up for just over 2 hours to be within my targeted 10% depletion. I will replace in my battery 4 AmpHrs times the amount of hours running my car, plus another 8 AmpHrs if I leave it connected for the safe two hours. [When I go off for a 3 hour visit I risk not uncoupling as the engine will still be warm for the restart, so am charging for the whole time I am away plus two hours on my return. That is a half hour journey out and back is 0.5+3+0.5+2= 6hours at 4 amps ie a large 24 AmpHrs. Remember that on running the car you have the massive current available from the alternator to recharge the starter battery; this battery is designed to accept this high current and thus recovers quickly.

There are cheap 150-watt inverters. However if you are using the in-car socket these seem to be limited to 10 amps, [120 watts]. This suggests that you could consider say up to an 8amp charger, not that I think its needed.

A small colour TV takes about 3 to 4 amps so you would need to budget about 1.25 hours coupled to the car for each hour of goggle box use.

John

 

 



18/1/2006 at 10:27am
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When Charging doesn't this produce hydrogen if in the back of the car could this be dangerous and isn't it illegal if caught and doesn't it render your insurance invalid. Point to ponder


18/1/2006 at 12:18pm
 Location: Hampshire
 Outfit: Hymer Nova S
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Chalkie56 is correct that charging produces hydrogen. This occurs as the battery reaches 80 to 90% of is charge and above,and it increases with over-charging. This is one of the reasons to prefer charging via a proper charger as opposed to directy connecting the vehicles 12volt system. Using the proper kit minimises the gassing risk but not completely. He is right the whole process can, if not done correctly be dangerous and from many counts; batteries are heavy and they are fully of acid as just two additional points. The boot needs to be well ventilated, the battery needs to be well secured , the connectors need to be insulated from shorting and the lifting out needs to be carefully considered.
Certainly if you dont fully appreciate the risk, as with so much else , you should not be doing it. I would not expect, or risk, insurance to cover negligent actions.


18/1/2006 at 1:16pm
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Quote: Originally posted by Jan P on 13/1/2006


I'm sure there was a thread on this ages ago and it included instructions by Gary of arc systems but for the life of me I can't find it. If any one can put a link to it I would be most grateful.

Your wish is my command  Look here Your right Gary had one as well but i think this one gives a more idiot proof explaination and more down to earth descriptions on how to do it




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