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Subject Topic: WTD. Wiring diagram Electrolux 4271
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PersonV6Steve
14/9/2020 at 9:55pm
 Location: Chatham Kent
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Quote: Originally posted by cliffbrown on 13/9/2020
you should take the temperature of a mass, not the air so its best to put a thermometer into a glass of water


Thanks for your input cliff. Could you confirm the colours of the element sheathing please as there seams to be a bit of confusion as to which is which. Thanks.


PersonV6Steve
14/9/2020 at 9:58pm
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Quote: Originally posted by alexand3r on 14/9/2020
I have rewired anything apart from 240w


Hi Alex. It may be that someone else may have had a go before you. If the elements are round the wrong way it may be the problem.


PersonV6Steve
30/9/2020 at 9:18am
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While I'm on the subject of the fridges. What causes the plastic liners to stain yellow and how do we remove the yellow staining? Its not all over the lining, just in places really. Looks really "not nice"
We have tried kitchen/bathroom cleaner and the wife want's to mover to using some bleach but I thought I'd ask on here before we do that.


Personcliffbrown
30/9/2020 at 1:05pm
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do you have a product number Electrolux website shows dozens of RM4271 need to narrow it down I cant put it on here as its a pdf file I have looked at the last one shown both heaters have two brown wires

Post last edited on 30/09/2020 13:11:52


PersonV6Steve
30/9/2020 at 1:54pm
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Hi Cliff. I've popped the fridge back into its place to get it out of the way so I can't actually see the wire colours on the elements at the moment

The label inside the fridge has seen some better days I'm afraid due to it having been cleaned so many times. It begs the question as to why they didn't stick it on the outside, or maybe use a better label!

The number I have (I think) is 921074104. Its a 4271 with the electronic ignition. The thing is, I think some lesser experienced fingers have been under the connection cover as all the connection blocks were missing when I took the cover off.
There is no private message service on here but I contacted a mod who said they would forward contact details provided we were both in agreement to it.


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Personcliffbrown
via mobile 30/9/2020 at 4:41pm
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Ok that product number brings up a RM4291 with electronic ignition, product date from 1997 12v heater brown to a terminal block other brown to position 2 on 12v switch 240v heater onto stat other onto power switch, if it is allowed get someone to send me your email and I will forward it, I appreciate the label is worn might it be a 4291?


PersonV6Steve
30/9/2020 at 7:09pm
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I've requested the mods to let you have my email address. Thanks. Steve


Personcliffbrown
via mobile 01/10/2020 at 4:33pm
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Have tried to email you hope it works


PersonV6Steve
01/10/2020 at 9:29pm
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Many many thanks Cliff. That will be a great help when I check the wiring connections on this unit I have here. Thanks again. Steve


PersonShackbob
via mobile 05/10/2020 at 8:34pm
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Special baffles are usually used behind the fridge to duct the airflow. Requires the vent louvers to be at a specific height as well. The top louver vent maybe just below the worktop height. If there is a vacant space above the fridge It's usually filled with the associated wiring and at the rear there maybe a sloping panel upto the top louver height. Gain access by removing these louver vents. The baffle panels may show signs of rot if they are of wood.


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PersonV6Steve
05/10/2020 at 9:29pm
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There is a full width aluminium baffle that is screwed to the under-side of the worktop at the back over the top fins but the sink is over the fridge so its a bit crowded, what with the drain pipe and all the water piping for the taps. Then there's the wiring as well.

I've been looking at getting it a bit tidier so the baffle, or guard can be a bit more effective so it passes the warmth to the vent a bit better rather than heat the area above the fridge.

It troubles me a bit that the sink is where it is because of the risk of a water leak.



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