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09/5/2007 at 10:00pm
Location: wsm Outfit: elddis wisp 510 5 &Kia Sportage XS
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Joined: 20/4/2007 Standard Member
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please can someone advise me on what sort of ply to get for my van floor, would it be mariene ply? and what sort of adhesive/bonding do i get to re stick it after.i am a newbe and just sourcing ways of fixing my floor.please help.
------------- dizzy dawn
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03/6/2007 at 3:36pm
Location: Lancashire Outfit: Caravan now Sold
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if it needs repair,mine squeeked thats how i found it.also feels like your walking on soft shoes when you walk slowly across the foor because the ply has lifted up.
my version for what its worth
hi,delamination...frightening no if you set out your stall and take your time.this is not a two hour job as stated,when you have finished you will know why they charge so much at the caravan repair shop.i have just done ours a few months ago.i will go through the steps best i can.ours had gone in two places,next to the door entrance and next to the sink four feet away.you will find that delamination is where the floor is used most.ie next to the sink and the door entrance.first decide how much delamination you have,ie.2 feet (old school) or 6 feet,this information is required when you go to order your epoxi resin mix.one mix will cover about 3 feet by 3 feet.got mine from barrons £25 for both tins.you also need a large syringe to inject the mixed epoxi resin.this will also sell.also the chemicals (glue) are called apollo 1 and apollo 2.i think the code is A8136.the small tin is the hardener and must be used in the time on the tin.the first thing is to remove all carpets or lino.second(must) tape up all joints and the cowls under the caravan .use a good tape.ie brown packing tape,3 in wide.if you dont the glue will run out on to the ground outside through all the seams.you will not know until you see a pool on the path..third ,support the floor under the van in some way so it cannnot bend when pressure is placed on top,do not push up the floor.you can damage the fittings inside.use wood blocks stacked up just touching the floor on the underside in the same place as the delamination.fourth find a sharp 10mm drill .you need to buy 10 mm round wood to cut and plug the holes,sold in 6 foot lengths.this needs cutting into plugs,half inch long and sanded down at one end to make it go in easy.the next step is to do a test hole,find a place that has no gas pipes on the underside.slowly drill one hole until it only just touches the plywood at the bottom.DO NOT DRILL THROUGH.tape up the drill at this depth,use plenty of tape to stop the drill going deeper than it should.mark out the area of delamination,black marker,in a square grid pattern of 4 inch each way .when finished you will have a large square full of holes to the size of the delamination.ie.3 x 3 feet.clean away all and any dust or shavings.have a large polythene bag ready to put over the square,the glue does not stick to polythene.you need a tin or old pan to mix into of the correct size for size of mix.a clean strong stick to stir the mix.only mix what you need within the time allowed.start at the rear end injecting the holes one by one until it flows out then plug with the wood plug.when finished ,place poly bag over all holes.put a heavy weight on top ie.wheels and tyres or gas bottles.leave for 24 hours to dry.sand down all plugs until smooth.you must wear a mask for the fumes and open the windows when you are doing the job.rubber gloves are handy too.CHECK UNDERSIDE FOR GAS PIPES BEFORE STARTING.wish i could type. thought this may help
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
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03/6/2007 at 4:09pm
Location: Porthcawl South Wales Outfit: Avondale Mayfly
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Hi Christian
AS Michael stated you can try the delamination kit, but it did'nt work for me, and the price the workshops wanted, made up mind to try what I did, and as I said it was still fine when I resold the van years later. It,s up to you
I used 1 and half inch bolts with countersink heads 'bout quarter dia'. and large metal washers.
After spreading "No Nails" adhesive over the floor area and placing new ply over old floor,drilled through on each corner, down sides and randomly around centre, MAKING SURE UNDERSIDE WAS CLEAR OF PIPES CHASSIS Etc. As my mate passed bolts through, I used a Large Metal washer and nut to tighten starting from centre and working out to side and ends. As I said earlier, it depends on if the interior of your van can accomodate the extra thickness around fire, drop down cupboard hinges, etc.
Colin
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05/6/2007 at 1:16pm
Location: Pontefract Outfit: traditional heavy canvas tent
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Thanks Colin
much apreciated I will do just that and let you know the result when it is done.
------------- Christian
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09/6/2007 at 8:06am
Location: Pontefract Outfit: traditional heavy canvas tent
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Hi Colin, another question (sorry).
What do you think the draw backs would be to simply screw the floor down rather then drilling through and using bolts? Just thinking that their are 2 advantages 1. That I could use more screws therefore it would be fixed tight in more places and 2. That I have no risk of hitting something underneath.
What do you think?
Advice much appreciated
Christian
------------- Christian
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