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I've just discovered some damp in the front of the caravan by the LH front window in between the LH window and the centre window. The wallboard is quite spongy in an area of about 2inches by 4inches. I presume the ingress area is the trim/window mounting rail above the front windows. I intend to strip the wallboard out, repair and then refit new wallboard, but what may seem unconventional to you all is that I intend to reseal the caravan first to prevent further ingress. Then after the reseal job I can tackle any rebuilding work knowing that I'll have no more water ingress to ruin my hard work

I intend to use Sikaflex 221 to reseal the caravan, as I work with the stuff daily and know it's really strong, is a good sealant/adhesive and has elastic properties, but is it too strong? I've used non-setting mastic "tape" sealant before, but am not too impressed as it has a tendency to dry out. My idea is that if I pump Sikaflex into joints first, and afterwards use it as a bedding sealant, I know I'll have sealed off the ingress points for a good many years. My only concern is that it may be too strong.

Also, if the damp isn't too bad, and I can get away without replacing structural wood, what type of wood hardener can I use/which is the best type to use to harden the wood?

you need the fixit club........

http://www.wizard41.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/

Hi Chris , have a look at my website it has some info on it . I would say you may be better off using Sikaflex 512 Caravan sealant as it has been designed for caravan repair . Sikaflex 221 imo will be too hard once cured .

If the wall board is spongy it really needs replacing .
I would tackle the repair like this , first cover the area with plastic sheet and gaffer tape to stop anymore water getting in , then strip out the damp wood , then dry the area , once dry replace with new wood / wallboard , then reseal the window hanger on the outside see Here , Roll mastic should be fine on this repair and shouldn't imo dry out for quite a few years .

Also, if the damp isn't too bad, and I can get away without replacing structural wood, what type of wood hardener can I use/which is the best type to use to harden the wood?

It's possible as long as you completely dry the area ( wall board will still need replacing ) , Ronsil wood hardener is pretty good , just don't allow it to come into contact with polystyrene as it melts it .

I hope the above helps .

atb

Wizard

Thanks for the replies guys!

A couple of things I forgot to mention:-

1) I have the caravan in storage as my driveway won't accomodate the caravan, and I don't know anywhere I could leave the caravan whilst I'm doing repairs apart from the storage facility.

2) The drying out process will be a problem for me as I won't be able to leave a unit running in there, apart from leaving the gas fire on in my abscence, which may be a safety concern. So I'm relying on the weather and drying out in phases, i.e. when I go to the storage facility at weekends to do work on the caravan. I did put a Breathe-Tec cover on the caravan today, but that might just slow the ingress down. 

Hi Chris,

Stop the water getting in by duck tapping over the problem rails, then once you start removing the internal wall boards and let the air get to the structure underneath you will find a week of natural drying time can make a big difference.

Like me, you only have your weekends available to work on the van so this shouldn't be a problem.

I wouldn't consider leaving the gas fire on unattended.

I used sikaflex 512 on the resealing work, and can highly recommend it.

Richie