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Topic: One Shot Floor Delam Adhesive
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04/3/2008 at 8:06pm
Location: None Entered Outfit: Merc Vito Avondale Malvern
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Hello all.
Right, I'm going to sort the spongey floor in my 92 Avondale Malvern. It's right in front of the sink/cooking area.
I'm looking to use the One Shot Floor delam kit as stated in the topic, anyone used this stuff and did it work ok?
Seems to me it would be easier to use but thats not much consolation if it doesn't work so well.
As seen on the bay item no. 320198193758
Cheers
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09/3/2008 at 5:07pm
Location: Lancashire Outfit: Caravan now Sold
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hi,delamination...frightening no if you set out your stall and take your time.this is not a two hour job as stated,when you have finished you will know why they charge so much at the caravan repair shop.i have just done ours a few months ago.i will go through the steps best i can.ours had gone in two places,next to the door entrance and next to the sink four feet away.you will find that delamination is where the floor is used most.ie next to the sink and the door entrance.first decide how much delamination you have,ie.2 feet (old school) or 6 feet,this information is required when you go to order your epoxi resin mix.one mix will cover about 3 feet by 3 feet.got mine from barrons £25 for both tins.you also need a large syringe to inject the mixed epoxi resin.this will also sell.also the chemicals (glue) are called apollo 1 and apollo 2.i think the code is A8136.the small tin is the hardener and must be used in the time on the tin.the first thing is to remove all carpets or lino.second(must) tape up all joints and the cowls under the caravan .use a good tape.ie brown packing tape,3 in wide.if you dont the glue will run out on to the ground outside through all the seams.you will not know until you see a pool on the path..third ,support the floor under the van in some way so it cannnot bend when pressure is placed on top,do not push up the floor.you can damage the fittings inside.use wood blocks stacked up just touching the floor on the underside in the same place as the delamination.fourth find a sharp 10mm drill .you need to buy 10 mm round wood to cut and plug the holes,sold in 6 foot lengths.this needs cutting into plugs,half inch long and sanded down at one end to make it go in easy.the next step is to do a test hole,find a place that has no gas pipes on the underside.slowly drill one hole until it only just touches the plywood at the bottom.DO NOT DRILL THROUGH.tape up the drill at this depth,use plenty of tape to stop the drill going deeper than it should.mark out the area of delamination,black marker,in a square grid pattern of 4 inch each way .when finished you will have a large square full of holes to the size of the delamination.ie.3 x 3 feet.clean away all and any dust or shavings.have a large polythene bag ready to put over the square,the glue does not stick to polythene.you need a tin or old pan to mix into of the correct size for size of mix.a clean strong stick to stir the mix.only mix what you need within the time allowed.start at the rear end injecting the holes one by one until it flows out then plug with the wood plug.when finished ,place poly bag over all holes.put a heavy weight on top ie.wheels and tyres or gas bottles.leave for 24 hours to dry.sand down all plugs until smooth.you must wear a mask for the fumes and open the windows when you are doing the job.rubber gloves are handy too.CHECK UNDERSIDE FOR GAS PIPES BEFORE STARTING.wish i could type.
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
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21/6/2008 at 5:47pm
Location: Midlands Outfit: Mondeo Avondale Gram
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Did you try the one shot glue?
Has anyone else tried it?
I am guessing that without a hardener it will take a while to set.
Cheers
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23/6/2008 at 4:56pm
Location: South Yorkshire Outfit: None Entered
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The one shot glue is a MCPU - Moisture Cured Polyurethane.
The panels would be bonded with either a single pack or twin pack version of this during its original manufature.
The only poroblem with it, apart from the fact that you cannot get it off your hands, is that it is moisture cured and must be applied in a thin coating. If you have a hole in the floor either from damage or a pipe in there, you might get an adverse reaction. i.e. it will cure around the outside ofthe 'lump' of glue, sealing it away from moisture. The glue within this sealed lump can remain liquid for months until you step on it funnily, or something happens (speed bump in the road) to break the glue bubble. It can then start to cure this bit.
MCPU's expand when they cure so you MUST ensure that you have weighted it down.
In the case of the glue bubble, you might get a lump appear in the floor many months after your repair. Then it's a floor out job to repair
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24/6/2008 at 12:05pm
Location: South Yorkshire Outfit: None Entered
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Quote: Originally posted by cambridgecockne on 23/6/2008
sorry but the one shot i used was not a moisture cure like gorrila glue that does expand. the one shot i used was called 2525 green and is a resin.
Ooohhhhh yes it is LOL
Single pack glues either cure from solvent (including water) evaporation, a reactant on one surfcae, or are moisture activated.
2525 is made by Chemique as is XP2525, a single pack MCPU with a green colourant. I don't know why they make it green?
Gorrilla Glue, expanding foam, LTM4, Bison single part PU, Purocol, and this 'one shot' are all based on similar technologies where the Polyol is activated by an isocynate hardener which has been reacted with it. The moisture kicks the isocynate off, and hey presto, according to the amount of C02 released, is how much it foams.
PUR is PolyUrethene Resin (although some prefer to name it PolyUrethane Reactive)
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