Hi, I’ve discovered on our recently purchased Freedom Club Class that the Electrolux RM4200 fridge works fine on 240V, works just on 12V, which I believe to be down to the wiring as I’m only seeing 11V at the terminals. But my problem is that I can’t get the gas to light. I’ve checked that the gas is getting through. Well at least to the valve by disconnecting the tubing and pressing the valve in. I think the problem is with the piezo press button igniter. I can’t see any spark in the little window at the bottom (even when viewed in the dark). I’ve taken the piezo button unit out and connected it to a piece of wire and it seems to work OK as it can produce a spark that jumps about 1cm. I can’t get the grill off from the outside of the van so access to the back of fridge is tricky. I can’t see how the fridge is held in and I would like to know what’s the typical method of fixing the fridge to the van? Mine seems very firmly mounted as there’s not even a hint of wiggle, but I can’t see any mounting points at the front. Also if I can get it will I ever get it back in with the flue connected? Thanks for any suggestions.
You need to get the outside vents off atleast the top one , disconnect the flue and the fridge baffel plate , remove the 4 screws that are normally hidden under plastic covers just inside the fridge door . Then ease the fridge forward and disconnect the mains , gas and 12volt connections if they can't be reached from the vent hole , make sure all these services are turned off / disconnected first . I would recommend you have your fridge serviced and reconnected by a expert once out .
Hi, thanks for the link which led me to the Dometic site who must have taken over the Electrolux range. I've found a manual and discovered the fridge is held in place by screws under 4 white bungs in the inside of the fridge. I'll have a look next weekend. Thanks again for your help.
The 42xx series fridge will have the four plastic caps mentioned covering the screws, if so make sure you get the screws fully out or the points may well scratch the furniture it passes?!
Older fridges were screwed the other way, and the heads of the screws found in adjacent cupboards.
Difficult to know why the spark is not working as it should, sounds like the piezo is ok so somethings amiss with the spark electrode or the lead down to it is shorting to earth. The spark should jump from the electrode to the thermocouple, not to the burner
The other possibility is you have a blocked jet so no gas is arriving at the burner.
I successfully removed the fridge, luckily the 12v and 240v cables were long enough not to require removal and the gas pipe could be disconnected in an adjacent cupboard. On inspection I discovered that it was sparking between the electrode and the thermocouple, however, the spark was weak and yellow and would not light the gas. The thermocouple was slightly oxidised so I removed it and cleaned it up. The spark is stronger and now lights the burner. I have learned that on this fridge it’s not possible to see the spark through the fridge window, which is not a particularly helpful feature. The flue was clean as a whistle so I don’t think the gas has been used a lot. When pushing the fridge back into place, I managed to line up the flue without too much trouble. Wizard mentioned a baffle plate but there wasn’t one on my installation. I assume this fridge is an original factory fitment but the grills are pretty small and most of the heat from coils seems to drift around under the sink. Despite this the fridge does get cold enough on 240v and gas. I’ve not tried it properly on 12v. However, I have a problem in that I’m only seeing 10.5v at the fridge terminals. The van is fitted with the old 12s cabling which means thinner wires and the fridge does not have it’s own earth cable. I’ll have to try it see if it still works with such a low voltage.