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Subject Topic: Truma heater not working
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05/5/2010 at 9:25am
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See how your experience helps getting the gas valve out of the floor plate? clue is, it's a sweet design and very very simple but not obvious?!


05/5/2010 at 7:55pm
 Location: UK
 Outfit: swift challenger 530
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Ha Ha now there's a challenge !   I must admit we come across these dilemmas occasionally & just when you think you got it cracked, some manufacturer comes up with a completely different system.  I tried the fire again this afternoon & pilot stayed alight & heater worked on no 2 for a good 15 mins. We are away for the first time in the van on Friday, so will give it another go when away before attempting the gas valve !  If i do get stuck can call upon your expertise ?    Thanks again........Steve

 



05/5/2010 at 10:00pm
 Location: somewhere.
 Outfit: Swift Corniche 15 4
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I think I need some advice too...having read these posts I am now wondering if my heater is working as it should be?

I have a Carver Trumatic 3000, I think it's the non manual ignition type. It has a kind of fan unit attached to the back of the fire place. I have always taken it for granted that it does not have an electric element fitted, so does not heat up on 240 Volt. But now I'm beginning to wonder if it should do, now having read these posts.

Gary, I looked at the manuals to the Fanmasters on your site...they don't seem to look like mine. The fan works both on 240 volt and 12 volt when the gas is lit or even if the gas isn't, but it never gets warm without gas????

In my caravan manual it refers to a Carver TEB and TEN Blown warn air system.

Thanks Sharon



Post last edited on 05/05/2010 22:29:21

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06/5/2010 at 9:58am
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No sorry you have a simple fan to blow hot air around from the gas fire, the TEB is 'Battery' or 12v fan, the TEN has a mains powered motor for the fan. (no I don't know where the 'N' comes into it either! anyone spaek German?)

Use the SPL3002/3000 manual from my website for your system



06/5/2010 at 10:55am
 Location: somewhere.
 Outfit: Swift Corniche 15 4
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Ok, thanks. That what I thought as it never got hot on 240 volt. Simple is good...like me...Hah!!!

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03/10/2012 at 11:24pm
 Location: Blantyre
 Outfit: Sterling Crauch Cuillin
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Hi there, I have been reading these posts and others concerning heaters not working on 240 volt mines the same (no green light) and have noticed on a few occasions a fused spur mentioned, I have a 2007 sterling can anyone tell me where to look for this as I cant find one anywhere or point me in the right direction on what to do,

cheers,  Andy....



04/10/2012 at 11:37pm
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Another old thread?

Not all vans have 'switched fused spurs' these are simple on/off wall switches with an in-built fuse and apart from the colour, exactly the same as found about the home.

Although the switch spur can be at fault, by far the main cause of green light failure, is a blown 10v transformer on the heaters main control board


05/10/2012 at 12:25am
 Location: Blantyre
 Outfit: Sterling Crauch Cuillin
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thanks for the reply I will try that over the weekend, I take it I will have to remove the heater to find it,

cheers, Andy.....



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you die if you worry you die if you dont so why worry


22/10/2014 at 10:24pm
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Ok guys I know this post is old but I think I have the same problem. I have read plenty of answers and I have bought the remote sensor that connects to the control box and fitted/installed. It to the gas thermocouple at the front. I have had the heating switched on for 3 hrs on 2k (got nice and hot) then opened windows and doors to get the sensor to pick up the temp change and no change, the elements don't get hot anymore ie it's still cold....... Any help would be appreciated


23/10/2014 at 11:58am
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Anyone do ovens?

I can't recall what flavour it is, but it's fairly standard.

All gas things work, including the fridge which ignites first tic.

However, the oven is strange. To light, we use a long stem lighter and it lights first time. Thermocouple working perfect after perhaps 10 seconds so the feed is ok as is the pilot jet.

The valve to operate the temp is likely in need of a clean as the full on is fine, but the low is full on too!

To get it to a low flame, I have to turn the valve towards off, shutting down the pressure.

But sometimes, on full on, the flame dies way down and we need to "fiddle" with the valve (adjustment knob) to get it up high again.

I am guessing either a faulty spring or a loose valve which isn't fully turning.

I can fix it, but I want some prior knowledge as to what to expect.


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23/10/2014 at 10:43pm
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Big40ish, did you ring me today? only I've had a phone call along the same lines and he didn't buy his remote off of me either?!


As for the oven, this sounds to me that the temperature control is automatic so the flame won't shut down until the ovens hot enough. So are you sure it's wrong or could it be it's actually working as it should?


23/10/2014 at 11:02pm
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Quote: Originally posted by arc systems on 23/10/2014
Big40ish, did you ring me today? only I've had a phone call along the same lines and he didn't buy his remote off of me either?!


As for the oven, this sounds to me that the temperature control is automatic so the flame won't shut down until the ovens hot enough. So are you sure it's wrong or could it be it's actually working as it should?



That never occurred to me


I was somewhat indulging in re-filling the water butt after her indoors managed to empty 40 litres in what seemed like 40 seconds Her indoors nipped my box about the oven so I assumed it was faulty

Thank you for your time...I'll see what happens this weekend.


24/10/2014 at 10:24am
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Doo Heid.....yep! http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/forum_images/smiley3gif





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