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Subject Topic: lunar problems Post Reply Post New Topic
25/5/2010 at 6:11pm
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my brother has just bought a Lunar 2000LX 505L.... 1997 model i think?

everything works as it should ie... fridge, water pump, mains lighting.

but there is 3 problems with it

1) this is the main proble... not a single 12v light works inside.. it has them little halogen bulbs (2 per light) so we bought a bulb to try and still nothing??

2)the large skylite at the front has broken hinges... can you buy new ones?

3)when the fans is on there is quite a loud squeaking from behind the fire/heater

any help is grately apprecited


25/5/2010 at 6:35pm
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forgot to say i've changed all the fuses in the electricity panel thing... there is some under the seat to the front right of the caravan which look to be ok but have a better look tomorrow as off to work soon


25/5/2010 at 6:59pm
 Location: Bristol
 Outfit: Lunar Conquest 544 a
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If you have a switch in the caravan that says van / car make sure it's set to van .

The fan behind the heater is probably clogged up with dust and the bearings may be dry , a single drop of oil should make the bearings run better .
I think you'll find the fan runs on 12volts , so you may have some of your system working .

May be a idea to check the battery has a full charge .

atb

Wizard



25/5/2010 at 7:12pm
 Location: Rochdale
 Outfit: Hymer Nova 470 Mondeo titanium 140tdc
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The lighting circuit will have a fuse in it, you need to find where the fuses are and check which one has blown and replace it. If you ring Lunar ar a lunar dealer they will tell you where the fuse is and which one it is.

 



-------------
Bill

For a licence dated 1997 or later you must add together the plated max weight of the caravan and trailer, if the total is 3500 or less you can tow it. You may even tow a caravan with a MAM greater than the cars unladen mass the restriction was removed in 2013

Mondeo Titanium 140 tdci


25/5/2010 at 9:33pm
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Thanks for the replies so far :) yeah I know some of the 12v circuit is working as the water pump works. I replaced all of the fuses in the main panel as one of them was melted? Hasn't melted or blew since I replaced them, but as said I still need to check the fuses under the seat. I'll take off the battery when I finish work and put it on charge

Thanks for the replies so far will update this with progress :)


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26/5/2010 at 4:41am
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little update, we've just got in from work and went into it, it seems the fridge isn't working after all.... the green light is on indicate power going into it but its not cold neither is the freezer.

think if it wasn't such a long drive to where he got it he would have took it back by now


26/5/2010 at 3:04pm
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little update....

it turns out the fuse for the lights is no#2 and it IS blowing as soon as i put it in, if it doesn't blow it gets that hot that it starts to melt the plastic of the fuse.

I dropped all the lights and one of them all of the wires were melted and they were clumped together causing an obvious short. thought u'd found the problem so i cut off the wires to where they aren't melted and taped them up so they dont touch but its still the same.

could it be possible for too much power to be running through the wires?


26/5/2010 at 3:18pm
 Location: somewhere.
 Outfit: Swift Corniche 15 4
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I'm not an electrician, but check the fuse rating is correct. If it's too low it will blow each time. But for safety don't up it if its correct.

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26/5/2010 at 3:28pm
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yeah its right bud, 10amp.

think he might have to pay for a electrician as i'm lost with it now


26/5/2010 at 4:18pm
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Are the halogen lights perhaps a retrofit that an owner did somewhere down the line. Maybe they haven't used the correct diameter wire and that could then cause it to melt? Like you said above..

I am assuming the hologens are also correctly power rated? If thay are too high they would draw a heavy load current wise which might again overload the system?

Have you tried taking the bulbs out and fitting the fuse back without any current drawn? Does it still blow then? What about dropping the watts bulb wise, does it still occurr then? This is the 240volt system you are talking about now? Halogens draw too much power for 12 volt?



-------------


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26/5/2010 at 4:45pm
 Location: Rochdale
 Outfit: Hymer Nova 470 Mondeo titanium 140tdc
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Quote: Originally posted by Chowey007 on 26/5/2010

  Halogens draw too much power for 12 volt?


Halogens are standard fit on my caravan, and in fact domestic halogen bulbs all need a transformer with them to convert the 240v to halogens native 12v. However, if they have replaced any of the Halogen bulbs they are quite likely to have replaced them with a higher power rating bulb as the norm for caravans is a 10w bulb and the ones available in most supermarkets are a minimum of 20v.

I bought a selection of 12v 10w halogen bulbs from ebay a couple of weeks ago after having had the first bulb to replace in my caravan for 7 years.



-------------
Bill

For a licence dated 1997 or later you must add together the plated max weight of the caravan and trailer, if the total is 3500 or less you can tow it. You may even tow a caravan with a MAM greater than the cars unladen mass the restriction was removed in 2013

Mondeo Titanium 140 tdci


26/5/2010 at 5:27pm
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Quote: Originally posted by Chowey007 on 26/5/2010

Are the halogen lights perhaps a retrofit that an owner did somewhere down the line. Maybe they haven't used the correct diameter wire and that could then cause it to melt? Like you said above..

I am assuming the hologens are also correctly power rated? If thay are too high they would draw a heavy load current wise which might again overload the system?

Have you tried taking the bulbs out and fitting the fuse back without any current drawn? Does it still blow then? What about dropping the watts bulb wise, does it still occurr then? This is the 240volt system you are talking about now? Halogens draw too much power for 12 volt?



tbh the ones on the roof look retro fitted, as there seems to be different size wires in dirrent lights and too many spade connectors with electricians tape around for my liking.

i have actually disconnected the main lights altogether and they still do it, the only lights still connected are the 3 spot lights above the kitchen bench, sink and hob and the 2 in the bathroom




Quote: Originally posted by janus on 26/5/2010
Quote: Originally posted by Chowey007 on 26/5/2010

  Halogens draw too much power for 12 volt?

Halogens are standard fit on my caravan, and in fact domestic halogen bulbs all need a transformer with them to convert the 240v to halogens native 12v. However, if they have replaced any of the Halogen bulbs they are quite likely to have replaced them with a higher power rating bulb as the norm for caravans is a 10w bulb and the ones available in most supermarkets are a minimum of 20v.

I bought a selection of 12v 10w halogen bulbs from ebay a couple of weeks ago after having had the first bulb to replace in my caravan for 7 years.



i have took all the bulbs out and only put in one which i bought from a caravan shop, but it was a 20w




should the voltage be 12v at the fuse in the main panel? as i might buy a volt meter and test that tommorrow as the fuse seems to get hellish hot if it doesn't blow


29/5/2010 at 11:17pm
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Well I seem to have found the offending circuit. The volts at the fuse fluctuates between 12.60v and 13.25v so that is normal. So decided to test each light circuit for continuity and found the short to be in the very front light circuit ( one closest to front window) but this is where I am lost now as the wires run through the ceiling


30/5/2010 at 2:21am
 Location: South Gloucestershire
 Outfit: Avondale Kingfisher Super 1979
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Have you tried to have a look behind the fuse holders to check that you dont have a spade connector that is grounding out somewhere ? Also check the continuity of the wires using a multi meter, there's got to be something that is taking the positive back to earth some where.



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