I've owned my 1990 cotswold windrush for over a year now and whilst giving it a good wash , noticed that along the top of the awning/roof rail there are a few places where I could just about get a fingernail into hairline gaps in the sealant. I ran a small amount of non drying sealant over these gaps. This got me thinking about all the other seals on the van and I found I could just about get my fingernail between the rails and the caravan's aluminium skin( if that's the correct term) in some places.
Now I have no reason to think that water is getting in, as it seems dry inside the van, but how does one know when to reseal a van, before water does get in and cause damage ?And.. would it help to just run some sealant along all the tops of the rails,as an insurance against water getting in, at least untill next spring, when i'll have the time to to reseal the whole van, if that's what's recomended. I would be most grateful for any advice on this subject. Mark.
I've used this stuff on boats for years and it works very well. Its not going to be as permanent a fix as a proper reseal but it will stop leaks providing the area is dry when you apply it, as long as there isn't a huge gap to be filled and as long as there is no movement in the joint to be sealed.
I think you mean Seek 'n Seal? Not the same stuff, Creeping Crack stuff is thinner than water and really gets into joints, down screw threads and all over! (dries clear and comes off with meths tho).
Seek 'n Seal seems a bit gummy and didn't work for me.
I used Creeping Crack on a leaky hatch rubber to glass seal on my boat about 5 years ago. Still doesn't leak!
If your worried about water ingress over the winter a quick overseal with a good product like Sikaflex 512 can be done quickly and inexpensively along with a role of clear tape to keep it neat.
If your caravan hasent had a reseal its worth penciling in the time to do it next year. A damp tester should also be used inside the caravan as often you cant see the ingress until it too late.
I wouldn't try to do a quick overseal with Sikaflex. Once it cures its permanent - there is no solvent. Its better to take any rails or fittings off and clean everything up completely before you permanently attach them with Sikaflex.
As Rune said somewhere, if you may need to get a fitting off again - like a fridge vent or something - use a non curing sealant.
The OP said temporary and the best temporary stuff in my view is the Creeping Crack Cure!
I'll look into learning how to do a proper reseal next year. I haven't noticed any signs of damp getting in, but it is now 21 years old. I did use a meter and it stayed quiet. Unlike when I used it on many "dry" vans I looked at when buying. Mark.
I know what you mean Mark, I put my fingers through the front corner of a dry Elddis Wisp 400-5, we did not buy that one, even though they had put down a 2 inch shagpile carpet and a fold down tv that was so damned small you could hardly see it when it was folded down.
------------- Just remember, if it is older than yours, smaller than yours but next to yours, there is probably no credit owing on it...