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Subject Topic: Shower tray Post Reply Post New Topic
Personjosiewales
17/1/2011 at 7:51pm
 Location: south yorks
 Outfit: None Entered View josiewales's Profile View Profile   Reply to josiewales Reply   Quote josiewales Quote  
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   The shower tray in our M/H seems to flex quite a bit with any wieght on it.  It is the  type that covers the whole bathroom floor with a dividing ridge between shower and sink/toilet area.  There seems to be battens under parts of it but not enough it seems as I have had to repair one small hairline crack already.

Removing tray is not an option (not at this stage anyway)  and I was wondering as to the feasability of drilling then pumping in some kind of filler or foam.

Is this a common problem and has anyone had experience of it?

would be grateful for any ideas   (except the one about loosing weight cos we are not fat,  well not really)



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josiewales


Personcorpogreen
17/1/2011 at 9:41pm
 Location: nottingham
 Outfit: Grand Canyon 8 Pennine Fiesta View corpogreen's Profile View Profile   Reply to corpogreen Reply   Quote corpogreen Quote  
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You could do what i did,and it worked perfectly for 2 years before I sold the van,and that was to make a duck board to the size and shape of the bottom of the shower tray.You can feel where the bearers are under the tray by tapping the tray with a rubber mallet.as long as you bridge the bearers it should be OK

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Personjosiewales
17/1/2011 at 10:02pm
 Location: south yorks
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Nice idea that with the duckboards, just happen to have some thin hardwood laths to hand that match the interior as well.
Might give it a go but both areas to do are odd shapes (very curvy) but what's to loose in trying
Bet it works really well on a regular shape though
Thanks

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josiewales


floggitt
19/1/2011 at 9:36pm
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I had the same issue with a swift motorhome shower tray. I was able to get underneath it from the back of a seat frame that was against it so you could not see the holes.
Drill a couple of holes 10mm so you can feed a pipe under the shower as you said between the batterns supporting it. Then inject builders foam underneath where you would normally stand.
Worked for me!

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Personjosiewales
19/1/2011 at 11:19pm
 Location: south yorks
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Never thought of going that way in.   My layout is like that with the seat as well gonna look at that at the w/end
Thanks floggitt

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josiewales


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Personcase998
22/1/2011 at 6:30pm
 Location: Thirsk
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Did you use creeping crack for the repair.

Post last edited on 22/01/2011 18:38:05


Persontango55
22/1/2011 at 10:58pm
 Location: Lichfield
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If you want to go with the idea of what corpogreen recommended, it is advisable to make a template first out of cardboard or something similar. You measure the basics then cut the fiddly bits out with a pair of scissors or stanley knife till it fits exactly to your requirements. Once achieved and satisfied you can place the cardboard on top of the corresponding duck boards, draw a line around then cut to size. The complete duck board should then drop in perfectly and fit snuggly where required and you end up with a professional DIY job. Simples!


Personjosiewales
23/1/2011 at 12:03am
 Location: south yorks
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Got a repair kit for the crack (name escapes me ) but it seemed a lot of elaborate messing about for a small crack that's not in an obvious position so just keyed it a bit and put on a bit of good old sikaflex 512.
Good as new and flexible

Definitely going to go with the builders foam but a bit concerned in case the foam lifts the tray slightly did you have any problems Floggitt

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josiewales


Personmikecarter1969
23/1/2011 at 7:20pm
 Location: Norfolk
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Had that problem on Mavis 2, we used expanding foam, worked well! It also had a crack we fixed using fibreglass and then some colour matched paint we had for respraying her handles! Can hardly see it, but we did use tissue rather than fibre mat!

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Personjosiewales
23/1/2011 at 9:54pm
 Location: south yorks
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Got it wrong with the layout, there's a heater and wardrobe next to the bathroom with gas locker behind. Emptied gas locker and went in that way, drilled three 10mm holes (as floggitt suggested) inserted plastic tube as far as it would go and pumped in a small amount of expanding foam into each one, left the tubes in and blanked the holes with grommets

What a result completely solid and stable floor

Dead chuffed

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josiewales



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