Just inherited my in-laws van due to ill health. It has been stored unused for 2 years and the brakes were left on and they want to stay that way!!.How do I free them ? Is it a WD40 and hammer job or is there an easier way ? Thanks, anticipating some helpful replies.
Firstly you could try a block of wood and a lump hammer, and give the wheel a couple of swift clonks failing that you will most likely have to take the wheels off and dismantle
If the caravan has been unused for 2 years with the handbrake applied constantly you will find that the brakes have seized and the only way you can rectify the problem is remove the brake drums and dismantle the internal brake assembly. You will find it quite difficult to actually release the brake shoes from the inside of the hub first though to be able to gain acces to remove, clean and re-lubricate the operating mechanism.
Brake shoes are likely to be corroded onto the drums by rust after all this time. Might very well involve some or all of suggestions above.
One detail that might possibly help free them. Was the brake lever just on 2 or 3 clicks of the ratchet or all the way up to an almost vertical position? If it was only 2-3 clicks, then the parking brake was only partially applied, in which case, you have a better chance of freeing them by pushing BACKWARDS.
Your suggestion of WD40 is a good one in any event, Firstly because it is remarkably effective stuff. Scondly because it would be adviseable to get whole braking system / coupling head checked anyway.
Please never apply heat to the drums, if you push the caravan backwards using the overun coupling with sufficient force the brake shoes will move into the auto reverse position. This will make drum removal possible, the brake assemblies can then be serviced, remember never reuse a one shot nut or if castle nut, use a new split pin on reassembly.
if it has one shot nuts i doubt he will have a torque wrench that can torque to 290 + -10 Nm = 214 + - 7.5 lbs/ft.unless he works in a land rover garage. only seen two with brakes stuck on and both were dragged onto a flat wagon to the workshop.
Post last edited on 27/03/2011 23:25:43
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
if brakes have been left on this long as mentioned above the shes have probably stuck to the drums and this can normally be released by reversing the trailer, also mentioned above. ounce this has been done whether it works or not I would recommend removing the drums. this is easily done remove the wheel, knock the dust cap off with a hammer and chisle / screwdriver, remove ctr nut (if taper bearings this will have a split pin.) or as stated above it could be a very tight oneshot nut if sealed bearing then if most things are ok the drum should pull off or you may need to back the brakes off. alko have a fiddly adjuster through a hole that you move slowly of Knott brakes usually have a 17mm nut (except larger250x40 brakes that have a 19mm nut. ounce you have removed the drums check the brakes as the lining can come off the brake shoes, the expander and brake cables can also seize and the springs can get tired. if the drum comes off ok then inspect the springs for serious corrosion and the linings on the shoes replace if required buy shoes from a trailer company as they are normally cheaper than from a caravan shop. ounce you have done a visual inspection get a screw driver and push the Expander back where the brake cable attaches this will give an indecation to weather the cable and expander is ok. at rest the expander should have the middle section as far towards you as possible if not one has seized when you push the center arm should go back and the brakes should expand when you release the pressure it should come back to rest point immediatly. if it does not move when you push the expander is probably seized if it is not fully ou to start either the cable has seized or the brakes are poorley adjusted if it does not spring back immediatly then the cable is seized. whilst you have the drum off remove the shoes and strip clean and grease the adjuster then reassemble take note of the way the brakes are assembled when striping as it is important they are re assembled in the same way.
for a couple of usefull guides see http://uk-trailer-parts.co.uk/category/brake-maintainance this is almost right and is imformative and has pictures to show you. nost of the articles are directed towards Knott brakes but Al-ko are very simular principle.
See that above about the cables !! One of our stock trailers had siezed brakes and dad was belting them with a sledge....I got under and it was caused by the cable sticking in its shield.
Quote: Originally posted by shocker on 01/4/2011
See that above about the cables !! One of our stock trailers had seized brakes and dad was belting them with a sledge....I got under and it was caused by the cable sticking in its shield.
i used to get this on my MAXI car many years ago,nearly every MOT i had to change one cable or the other as they were open to water ingress at the ends.
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.