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Subject Topic: Water heater problem cacsacde 2 Post Reply Post New Topic
29/4/2011 at 8:04am
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I am having similar issues with my cascade2 water heater, After draining the system last autumn,came to use the van for the first time this week, The cold was fine but no hot, I went outside to see water coming from the surround of the filter. After closer inspection i saw some hairline cracks on the housing where the filter screws in. I assumed this was reason for leak, so fitted a new housing and filter. it worked for a while but lots of air and gurgling prior to hot water coming out.when tried next day again no hot water, went outside and pump working but water coming from vent cowling(not drain valve area) Afetr seeing posts I opened the drain valve (bottom left of vent cowling) and it came out fast cpl of feet distace from van!!

Any ideas looking on forums loads of differnt answer, poss a blockage or non return valve.

Any help would be great.



29/4/2011 at 8:49am
 Location: Bristol
 Outfit: Lunar Conquest 544 a
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I'd go for a stuck non return valve .

atb

Wizard



29/4/2011 at 10:54am
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Just taken cowling off and seen water coming from top left, after further googleing this part is the pressure relief valve, would this cause the problems I have been having ??


29/4/2011 at 11:04am
 Location: Coventry
 Outfit: Coachman Amara Suzuki GV
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Yes if non return valve is stuck it can cause a buildup of pressure --hence release from pressure relief valve.

Brian



-------------
there are 10 types of people in this world, those who understand binary and those who don't.


29/4/2011 at 8:42pm
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quote: water under pump pressure is 'squirting a long way from the van' so I don't think there is anything wrong with the cold water inlets non-return valve.

Even if faulty it will not allow a build up of pressure to cause the 'pressure relief valve' to blow off, not least because it's not a PRV but a 'quick drain valve' and because it's not a PRV, it's set at 50psi and other damage will occur first if pressure reaches that high.

What I think and is very common, is the QDV body is cracked and leaking where it screws into the heat exchanger, if I'm right and you push it sideways, just gently, it will snap off completely.
A solid one is very strong and will not snap.



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01/5/2011 at 8:51am
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Hi Gary, Thanks for the reply.

the water was coming from the top left as stated, when i tried to remove the part it did snap off, just before the thread.looking at your other posts i used a junior hacksaw blade and screw driver to remove the platic thread part.the part that broke was a white plastic item with a plastic end that seemed to be connect to a spring as you can pull it out with a lot of resistance and would return back to it's orginal state.

79

found a pic of the item. it was leaking from near the rubber gasket.

Does this still sound like QDV body (sorry but not sure what a QDV is).If so how can I sort the problem or can you sell me a replacement?

Thanks for your time



01/5/2011 at 10:41am
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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The picture shown is of a hot water pressure relief valve which contains a small mushroom shaped head at one end to seal the water pressure. The hot outlet as shown is situated at the top of the hot water tank and the cold inlet is at the bottom which has no relief valve. These parts do age harden due to being made from plastic and it's a common problem snapping off when undoing them. When you fit the new one be sure to start it by hand and not to cross thread the plastic valve when starting the screwing in process. The cowl housing has an Aluminium internal thread and the valve being plastic is easily damaged resulting then in a new valve then required.


01/5/2011 at 1:40pm
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If you read Truma's current description it is a pressure relief valve and up until 1989 it was also Carvers description.

However since 89 and up until Truma got it wrapped around their collective necks in 99!, it was re-named by Carver as a 'quick drain valve' and for very good reason.

That being in 89/90 they changed from a 16mm tie rod holding the tank on, afterwards the tie rod changed to a weaker 12mm rod.
So while originally the tank could happily stand the 50psi pressure, the new one can only stand a maximum of 30psi, that means the tie rod/tank will be stretched/deformed should anywhere near 50psi build up.

Anyway that's the history, for the the problem at hand the part required is one in the same part.

If yours does not have a hole in the flue for the little toggle on the end of the new one? then pull the toggle up and to one side and it will come off, your flue will then fit and just open your hot taps to assist draining


01/5/2011 at 6:54pm
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Thanks for the replys, sorry for sounding thick about this but from my orginal post, do you think replacing the pressure relief valve , will solve the problem our does it sound this was only part of the problem.

 

cheers



01/5/2011 at 9:07pm
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At the moment I think it's all the problem, I certainly doubt there is anything wrong with the non-return valve in the cold water inlet to the heater



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