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 Topic: updated guide to caravan movers
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23/6/2011 at 8:09pm
Location: Pink Panther Country (Co Durham)
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Guide to Caravan Motor movers. UPDATED.
Iv'e updated the guide yet again, on the 23/06/2011.
I get asked a lot of questions about movers, both at work & on web sites, so ive put together this general guide that i hope will answer most peoples questions. If you just need help on a problem scroll to the bottom of the guide.
MAKES:-
There are now 4 main players in the fixed mover stakes, Powrtouch, Reich, Truma & new to this Unipart Marine & Leisure.
Update :- there are now many movers on the market most from China, one of the best is the Purpleline Enduro2, the main manufacturers have brought their prices down this year to compete with the imports & Truma have gone so far as to have a new budget mover called the Truma go2 made in China I'm told.
Powrproducts, Powrtouch.
All models have the motors on the outside of the chassis in front of, or behind the wheels, in front of is the favoured position, as most vans now being produced have underslung spare wheel carriers & they have to be removed, to fit it behind, they now (2010 models) all use alloy rollers & the new FMC control panel (read below) as standard.
It also uses an isolation switch usually fitted in the battery box below the 240v input, this turns power on to the control panel while hopefully stopping the 240v cable from being connected, because if you run the mover with the mains plugged in you run the high risk of burning out the vans charger as the power needed is far greater than the charger can handle.
The standard mover, called the model 1 now, places the motor to the inside of the wheel & the roller comes out of the side, so it cannot be fitted to vans with shock absorbers, you use a 19mm lever (supplied) to turn the hex nut only 1/2 a turn or so which slides the motor & roller towards the tyre then compresses the tyre and locks into place, (all Powrtouch manual versions use this system) (1350 kgs maximum van weight)
There is also a heavy duty version with reduction gearbox, (called the heavy duty model 3) so its slower but it can handle big heavy vans up to 1500 kgs up a 1 in 4 incline, or 1700 kgs on lesser inclines.
They can all move a van up an incline of 1 in 4 if the right model is fitted, & I've tried it & yes it did it easily, if not rather slowly.
It and all other Powrtouch movers (except the model 1) will fit on vans with shock absorbers.
There is also the euro mover and twin mover model 4 (2 motors only).
The euro is now defunct, the model 3 took over but as there are used units out there for sale etc I'll leave the explanation in.
The only difference from the model 1 is that the motor is moved from the side of the tyre to a more central position directly in front of the tyre, with the roller offset in front of the motor, so that it clears the shock absorber, it uses a reduction box on the end of the roller to clear the shockers & it makes it a more powerful geared down version, as shockered vans are usually heavier.
Now out of date due to the new FMC PANEL:- The twin model 4 is more or less the same as the euro but it releases and intermittently powers the non driving side every so often to take out wheel twist when turning, the twist looks pretty horrible on all makes but what can you do, its going to happen as the wheels try to oppose each other.
Turning circle is about the same as the Truma, it can help if u are prepared to give it a hand and push or pull on the hitchead etc to aid its turn, on its own it will really struggle to hit a 10 degree turn, apparantly its more like 6 degrees.
Its best to go straight up bank & do your turns down bank, they really dont like going up bank on 1 motor.
There is a theory that if you mount it behind the wheels, then raise the front of the van as high as possible with the jockey wheel, it will turn better, ive never seen it done, but i have seen jockey wheels damaged going over obstacles & i can see the same thing happening if you try this method.
A twin wheeler turns into a single wheeler if you remove the 2 front or back wheels, that means it will turn as tight as one, so if you are prepared to remove a set to get your van into a tightspot, it may help with your decision about how to fit it.
UPDATE 2008 :- They now do a 4 motor, mover for twins called the Powrtouch AWD 6 (all wheel drive & it works very well, interestingly the 2 control panels (now obsolete) arn't linked by a signal cable so theres no master & slave, the handset just runs both on the same frequency, I would have thought it may cause conflicts between the tyres i.e running at different speeds, or 1 panel starting before the other but it doesn't seem to be a problem for it, as it seems to work as well as the reich 4 motor unit.
Update 2010:- from 2009 there is a new control panel & handset called the FMC panel, instead of stepping the opposing wheels it turns them at 25% for 1 1/2 turns & 70% for the remaining 1/2 a turn, of a 2 turn cycle, this drives the caravan smoothly round corners at up to 90 degrees.
It only uses 1 control panel to do this, it also has 4 speed settings so it can go from normal to snails pace by clicking speed buttons on the handset, if powractivation is bought it also engages the rollers with the push of 2 buttons on the handset, read below.
They also do a motorised engagement unit called a powractuator, it uses linear motors to drive the rollers into the tyres, you flick a toggle switch to engage it or disengage it (obsolete now).
The new awd 6 is now excellent it is the only mover that I recommend for a twin axle although the new panel does make a 2 motor unit turn better than the old stepping version they still wont turn anywhere near an AWD 6.
Update 2010:- The old model 1 has made a comeback, its been upgraded with cross activation, alloy rollers & the new FMC panel which has been rolled out across the full range of Powrtouch models, it just has a different software program on single axle movers, but it still wont fit vans with shockers.(max weight of vans is 1350 kgs)
The 2 great things about the model 1, is it is very very reliable (as are all Powrtouches, thats why they have over 70% of the UK market now) & it is relatively cheap, at under £700 it is combatting the huge influx of inferior chinese movers.
To sum up Powrtouch
There is also a newish model called the Powrcompact model 7, it can fit on a chassis as slim as 4 3/4" high, its for vans up to 1350 kgs, but its limit is 1200 kgs up a 1 in 4 incline, all the new models have alloy rollers & can fit on vans with shockers.
The Old Upgraded model 1 has the same weight limits.
Then there is the powrtouch heavy duty model 3, capable of driving a 1500 kg van up a 1 in 4 or 1700 kgs on lesser inclines.
For Twins there's now 2 versions,
The model 4 twin axle, 2 motor unit for twins up to 1700 kgs, its a Model 3 with larger rollers basically & modified software in the control panel,
The AWD model 6 with 4 motors driving all the wheels, its turning circle is much improved on the 2 motor units.
Reich make a single axle mover, that is different to the other 2 manufacturers, in that the motors are fixed in a central position between the caravans chassis, The jockey wheels/rollers are engaged by pushing a lever made from a steel tube, onto a bar on the ends of the unit, (now called the Jumbo I believe)then lifting a safety knob & levering the rollers onto the tyre, you have to do this to each tyre, it takes quite a bit of effort to do this.
The rollers look like the other makes at first glance, but they are very different, as they are on the ends of 2 foot steel tubes coming from the motors swivel joints, as such i would think they are much more expensive to replace when they eventually wear the grit off the rollers.
)They have now done away with grit rollers & use alloy instead.)
They also make a comfort model, this replaces the engagement device with a nut & it also engages both wheels at the same time from either side, you can use a corner steady brace of 19mm but you are best off using an electric drill because it takes ages to screw it in.
Or they now do power activation at an extra charge, this is a single motor in the centre of the unit that winds on or off the cross activating bar engaging both sides at once.
They can be fitted to vans with shock absorbers as the rollers are below the chassis, they are ideal for narrow chassis vans, I.E with a height less than 7 1/2 inches, but they are the lowest hanging of all the movers, so ground clearance problems have to be taken into consideration.
They also produce a twin wheel model with 4 motors, 2 in front & 2 behind the wheels, in fact they were the first to do it, it uses 2 control boxes, the first (master box) is controlled by the handset, it then tells the second unit (slave box) what it has to do through an interconnect cable.
Note, the underslung spare wheel carrier has to be removed to get the rear unit in, so you'll have to put the spare elsewhere, or buy the powrtouch spare carrier mover that I have on stock, this moves the spare about 6 inches backwards which is enough to get the mover fitted, but it will only move an AL-KO spare carrier so if you have a BPW chassis you will need to buy an Al-KO carrier.
This unit will truly make a twin wheel caravan go round corners, it still wont turn 360 degrees like a single axle will, but it turns pretty quickly compared to standard twin movers.(you may get 90 degrees if you are lucky)
If u have a standard twin & you are happy enough with the turning circle, i dont think the price tag of £2200.00 will appeal very much.
But it is 2 complete units bar 1 handset remote.
It is also a comfort model as standard so you engage the front wheels as a pair then the rear as a pair, with your electric drill & your own 19mm socket, as it isn't supplied.
All models use an isolation switch typically mounted below the 240v input plug in the battery compartment, you have to turn this switch on to power up the units, always leave the door open so you can switch it off immediately if problems occur. never run it with 240v plugged in, (you could burn out your charger as the load called for will far outweigh the 12 amp output of most chargers.
Truma, formerly Carver movers.
No longer the big boy of the industry, I used to fit around 50 + of these a year, (but since starting my own business, I am finding that customers mainly want the Powrtouch, with the Powrtouch model 3 being in first place in unit sales this year, 2010, as opposed to the Compact last year ((reason is price rises made it as expensive as the model 3)).
They brought out a new range of movers in 2007/2008, the new models look just excellent.
The old models were almost identical to the Powrtouches on all but the twin mover, it used an extra set of small signal wires from the control box to the motors to control the brakes in the motors, but it was no better than the Powrtouch, it just seemed to have a much more pronounced step, which made it look like the caravan was trying to immitate a duck, it waddled that much.
They did not use an isolation switch.
Now, you can have the standard mover, it still doesn't have an isolation switch, I'd recommend you have one fitted if you buy it.
It now comes as standard as a cross actuator model, that you engage the same as the Powrtouch (p.s Powrtouch is not a spelling mistake by the way) & with a new soft start control box.
UPDATE 2009:- The standard unit now comes with new grey Truma S panel, but it doesn't yet have an isolation switch, so its constantly flashing a red light, even when not in use. I really dont like that idea & I would ask for an isolator switch to be fitted, its only going to drain your battery over long periods.
The new Bailey Pageants & Senators now come with shock absorbers, so standard Trumas will not fit in front of the wheels.
Ive just heard that some new Swift models also have shockers as standard, so owners need to check that if they have Swifts or their derivatives.
Bailey say its still the standard chassis from last year so the shockers can be removed to fit them, but a better option is to pay a bit more & go for a truma S mover, or a Powrtouch mover.
You could always fit behind the wheels but the spare wheel carrier will have to come off, Its not a massive problem as there is now spare wheel moving kits that will move an AL-KO spare carrier.
Now the new units.
All models have :-
All new, life of the caravan alloy rollers that are much thicker than the oppositions on single axle models & about the same on twins, at around 3 inches across they have a bigger footprint on the tyre, so are less likely to slip & in the case of the twin TE model seem to turn it slightly faster round corners, they have also got a new motor design & now fitted with isolator switch.
Truma S :- Cross actuating, manual engagement via large lever & redisigned cam angles so it engages both wheels from either side very very easily, which the older trumas & powrtouches do not.
It doesn't use a hex nut anymore, its a cross bar in the end of the lever pushed into a slotted bar on the mover.
The truma SE & TE :- SINGLE AXLE SE, TWIN AXLE TE.
The dream machines, incredible pieces of kit but u pay the price, over £1350.00 for the cheapest.
They engage the tyres by simply pressing and holding for 2 seconds, 2 small buttons on the handset, the motors slowly move into position power driven by linear motors, if it startles the dog and it goes to stick its nose in while you are engaging it, simply hit the out buttons and it reverses immediately.
It can't engage itself by accident, lets say while you are on the move, because you have to turn the isolator on first, then go to the front of the van and plug the 12n (black roadlights plug) into a new socket mounted on the 'A' frame cover, then switch the handset on with a sliding switch, the handset then starts to beep while the unit checks to see if all safety procedures are correct then allows the handset to bond with it.
If the 12n plug isnt in the safety socket the handset beeps until it shuts itself down, you then have to switch it off and start again.
Disengagement is by pressing 2 more buttons on the handset & out she comes.
But just in case you overdoo it showing off & flatten the leisure battery so it can't disengage, you are provided with a little socket T bar, you remove a small plug from the end of the motor, insert the T bar and screw the motors back manually.
If you go for these models I would highly recommend you to take the extended warranty as everything is new so longevity isn't known yet & in fact I have heard of control panel reliability issues in 2009/10.
Unipart Royal:- their new models are designated the Titan, Hercules & Atlas.
Titan for single axle vans up to 1800 kgs, Seems to be identical to the Purpleline enduro, soft start corner steady winding handle that takes an age to engage, so use a cordless drill with 19mm socket attachment.
The Hercules, I have fitted around 10 already, they are very popular because of the price & the fact that they have a switch on the control panel that gives the choice of single axle or twin axle movement, the single axle turns one wheel whilst locking the other in turns, but for twins it turns one side at full speed & the other at 60% this drives round the corners but no where near as tight as a 4 motor unit. (which they do not make)
Engagement is by turning a corner steady brace on a 19 mm nut until it contacts the tyres, which takes a while, so a decent cordless drill with attachment is handy it has colour indicators to show when it is engaged fully.
The Atlas, it failed to meet its introduction date, but when it did we only fitted about 4 in 2010 they work exactly the same as a Truma TE but have a single blue wire which is supposed to go to a live on the 12s cable, the idea being if it was left engaged when the plug from the car was plugged in the motors would retract from the tyres, the only problem is it needs power from the battery to retract them but if the isolator was switched off nothing worked, we decided not to fit this wire.
It looked like they would be popular as it has auto activation from the handset as standard & for that its very cheap at around £1100 at time of writing, although my Unipart rep has said they will all go up by around a hundred pounds this year sometime (2010). This they did & an Atlas ended being £1250 ish & sales stopped dead.
I decided to drop all Unipart movers from our list for 2011 & take on the new Purpleline Enduro2 single & twin, plus Quattro movers
OTHER MODELS :-
Old Purpleline enduro, Initially I was so impressed with this makes price & power that I became a distributor for them, unfortunately it soon turned out that they wern't that impressive really so I dropped them, there are still a few around for sale, (even in 2011) usually on ebay & there is an influx of Chinese movers on the internet coming out of the same factory based on the Enduro.
Update, 23rd June 2011 Purpleline dropped them themselves & looked for a new mover to replace it, still Chinese but a much better prospect than the old model, out went the extremely long motor, in came the Powrtouch & Truma motor & gearbox type, out went the winding handle, in came the Powrtouch & Truma wheel brace 1/2 turn engagement, offset cam system with 19mm Hex nut, out went the non soft start control panel, in came the Powrtouch & Truma (anybody getting the drift) soft start system, the difference being they made a mover with bigger (fatter) rollers much like on a twin axle mover & came along with a choice of control panels, single axle or twin or single action switchable control panels to work the same unit so you can take your mover with you even if you switch from single to twin or vice versa, they have already updated the twin panel, initially it was black with the terminals on the outside of the cover it had a switch to flick between movements & it is a stepping motor panel, now its silver, you use the handsets buttons to change between single or twin movement & it isn't a stepping panel anymore, it turns one side slower than the other like Powrtouch to turn corners, also its mounting system is unique in that it can get round J shaped chassis as well as L shaped & it uses 2 17mm pointed bolts to bite into the chassis to stop any sliding about, I like it a lot.
Simpark from Holland,is a galvanised unit rather that painted, looks very big & butch, but not seen one in the flesh, was invited to be a distributor for them, but I couldn't get the price down low enough, with the exchange rate at the moment they are about £200 dearer than the other models
Koenings from Denmark are bringing their movers & other equipment to us this year, pretty expensive though.
A whole host of Chinese movers some with the suppliers own name on them, selling for next to now't & as i don't wish to be sued all I'll say is Caveat Emptor (buyer beware) I wouldn't even fit one for someone not knowing the reliability or guarantee issues, although I have provided a new Truma control panel & handset to a customer who fitted one & wired the panel the wrong way round, i.e positive to negative, it had no circuit protection in the panel so it blew up, the supplier only offered to sell him another panel at over £250. I do recon's at £130 a pair, he's not a happy chappie but at least its working now, with a good panel on it.
There is a british manufacturer mentioned in a previous version of this guide but as he has offered to sue me if I didn't remove any reference to his (armoured animal) product including just the name I've deleted it.
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Problems in general,
Movers are pretty reliable machines, but occasionally you may have a problem so i'll try to help on a few.
This doesnt include the new Trumas by the way, but most problems will probably affect them occasionally.
Stop starting:- you press the control, the unit either starts then stops, or runs then stops, then runs again, it does this continually, known as signal loss the control box is losing its signal from the handset then picking it up again, on a truma without the soft start it will make the movements jerky, on soft start units the motors can start singing to you but won't do anything else.
Absolutely the first thing to do with any electrical problem, is charge the battery, dont take it for granted that "oh its new so its got to be charged or the vans charger takes care of it, cos it wont", it may well have got flattened by a light left on or the anti theft system using the power, Charge it fully with a proper car, or better still leisure battery charger.
(Had a new one this week 23/06/11 customer provided a brand new 110 ah battery, I removed the caps & fitted the terminals, it dodnt work, tested battery with multi meter 12.8 volts scratched my head removed the terminals got a wire brush & scrubbed them from dull lead to shiney silver, refitted terminals worked a treat, moral is keep em clean.)
If that doesn't cure it, disengage the wheels, switch it on if its isolated, go in the van, remove the seat cushions and try controlling it from there, right next to it, if you still get signal loss, 1 the batteries in the handset need replacing, 2 the leisure battery is u/s, 3 the control panel is u/s, 4 (very rarely) the handset is u/s.
If it seems a whole lot better or is cured, the signal is being interfeared with by either the battery, the charger, some other caravan system, (although ive never heard of anything else) or it has coils of cable from motor to control box hidden in the van & they are causing a magnetic field.
When i first started fitting them we had to coil up the spare cable, tape it up & hide it under the battery box or in some corner, for 3 reasons, 1 the cables came with the fittings already on the ends, to fit to the control panel, 2 if the owner changed vans the cable would always be long enough for the changeover, 3 if they were the same length, in theory the motors would turn at the same speed so would drive in a straight line, of course with road cambers & bumps/potholes that doesn't truly work.
Now the manufacturers insist that all excess cable is removed to stop this hapening, but i have seen cable zigzagged under the van to keep the lengths the same, this is ok as far as i can tell, but it would be better if both sides went to the middle of the van then went to the control panel together that way the cables are kept the same length & thats the way i fit all of my movers.
So you can move the control box away from the battery, charger etc to try & alleviate the problem, you could try mounting it higher, on a wall or furniture panel, but get it away from the battery & charger etc.
A ticking noise coming from a powrtouch, or more especially a Truma roller, this one there is nothing to worry about, its a little bit of play between the rollers end and the bearings it runs in, the end plate can be removed and a washer used as a spacer to remove the play, the ticking should then stop, but its not really any problem.
The mover works when not engaged but refuses to move the van when engaged. The battery is almost completely flat. its got enough in it to turn the lights on, but not enough for the up to 100 amps needed to run the mover.
If you absolutely know that the battery is charged & you've tried another battery, then its a relay on the circuit board,its overheating, you need a new control panel.
You can only get the van to move to the right (offside), when pressing the forward button.
Disengage the rollers (safety first) press the turn left button, if the motor runs engage only that wheel, try again, if the motor runs but the van doesn't move, the gearbox has broken, if the motor doesn't run, either Its a bad or dirty cable connection somewhere, (probably at motor, or if its been swopped from another van to this one, a joint could have been used to lengthen the cable).or unusually at the control box. if possible test for power at the motor but you could have power to it without the ampage for some reason and the only way to tell that is to make up a set of leads to run the motor directly off a battery, if it still doesnt work the motor is u/s.if it does work its either still a bad connection or the control panel is u/s
Vise versa of course if it will only turn left.(nearside)
The mover will do none of the above, nothing happens at all.(providing the battery is charged):-
1 is the isolator switched on.
2 when either double pressing the handset truma/reich, or pressing the 2 red buttons on a powrtouch does the red light come on,on the handset, if not try new batteries. if that fails the handset is probably u/s i cant see it just being the bulb gone.
3 when pressing the handset to on, does the control panel make a clicking noise & do the little green lights come on and stay steady, if not count the sequence of flashes and pauses, there should be something on the panel & in your manual about sequences, in theory the panel should be telling you whats wrong.if it goes straight to red light when pressing the handset its usually a flat leisure battery.
4 is there power at the control panel input,if there is, is there power at the terminals on the control panel to the motor/s when the handset buttons are pressed, if not the control panel is u/s.or more rarely the handset is u/s.
When trying to engage the roller, it goes solid & wont engage, or goes very stiff but does engage with a struggle.
usually on trumas the bar on the back end of the engagement nut has bent, a new end is needed. Its called a toggle crank pin, I think it could happen on powrtouches too, on reichs ive even had the bar snap off but thats a different system.
The roller engages & disengages but theres no clunk to it.
The spring behind the motors mounting has either come off or snapped.(reichs dont have one)
Powrtouch :- when trying to engage the roller the nut turns but the motor doesnt move, or moves slightly then comes back by itself.
It uses a pin, known as a mills pin or roll pin, to join the engagement nut to the cam system, directly behind the motor mounting,its a bar of steel in a steel tube, basically it has snapped, you will need to get the bars lined up correctly then drive out the pin before fitting a new one.
Gaps settings etc.
Reichs are set with a gapping tool (a block of wood) of 15mm between the roller & the tyre, directly behind the centre fin, the fin can either be directly in the centre of the tyre for wide tyres, but the end of the rollers protrude out of the side of the van too much if its only on thin tyres, so it can be set further in.
Powrtouch & Truma's are set at 20mm for single wheel & 15mm for twin wheel movers,set in the centre of the tyre, again a block of wood is the easiest & most accurate method.
New Truma S, SE & TE movers are set at 20mm regardless, at the centre of the wheel.
Enduro2's are set at 20mm regardless.
UPDATE :- But there must also be a minimum 20mm gap between the inside side wall of the tyre & the mover, for all makes this usually means that the roller only comes across the tyre about 3/4 of the way, so it doesn't reach the outside edge, but its not a problem, if u see this it will probably still be fitted correctly.
Thats the official line, but with big heavy single wheelers, some customers have problems with roller slip because they may have to drive over a small obstacle regularly, in that case in theory the gap could be reduced to the twins 15mm setting but I'd start at maybe 18mm first, & if it did slip at 15mm your asking too much of it.
Well thats all i can think of for now, if your problem is different to mine I may not have come across it yet.
hope it was interesting reading.
UPDATE :- I took a redundancy package after a takeover & I'm now in the 3rd year of my own business supplying & fitting motor movers in the North East of England & possibly further afield.
At present I supply & fit Powrtouch, Purpleline & Truma products, about 12 models in total plus used & reconditioned movers.
If you need anything please feel free to send me an email, my advice is always free.
Thank you for your time,
Keith of N.E. Leisure Products.
neleisure at sky.com
www.neleisureproducts.co.uk
latest update 23/06/2011
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N.E. Leisure products Registered Northern Distributor for Purpleline, Truma & Powrtouch. I supply, fit & repair the full range of motor movers at your door to single & twin axle models, contact me for details, free help always given. www.neleisureproducts.co.uk neleisure@sky.com
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07/7/2011 at 7:39am
Location: Pink Panther Country (Co Durham)
Outfit: Avondale perle argos supreme
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Hi Chrissie7, above posting is correct he did threaten to sue me just for mentioning the R word, have no idea why, I didn't say any thing bad about them, but I didn't say anything good about them either.
But what about Powrtouch, they are British & have over 70% of UK mover sales, they hurt the previous market leader Truma so badly that their main shareholder bought Powrproducts out, their prices arn't an arm & a leg away from the chinese movers prices, For instance I can fit one in my area, say a model 3 heavy duty, the top of the range model for £775, (Nationally £825)I have the Enduro2 from China up for £695 so only £80 difference, mind you the Purpleline Enduro2 is far & away a better mover than most if not all of the Chinese imports which I wouldn't personally touch or deal in.
There are still examples of the old Purpleline Enduro hanging around on Ebay, you can pick one up for around £499 but they were big, bulky & had a couple of design faults, Purpleline themselves dropped them & designed this new one, personally I think they should have picked a new name.
Well got to go, got a fitting to a Hobby today & funnily enough tomorrow, they say things happen in three's so i'm waiting for the third.
Regards,
Keith....................................................
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N.E. Leisure products Registered Northern Distributor for Purpleline, Truma & Powrtouch. I supply, fit & repair the full range of motor movers at your door to single & twin axle models, contact me for details, free help always given. www.neleisureproducts.co.uk neleisure@sky.com
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