Hi all, I have a problem of fluctuating voltage on the rear three 12v interior lights in my van. Sometimes they will operate but most of the time they just have a faint glow or flicker as the voltage drops below 12v. I have tried running a new earth from a chasis point to the negative terminal of the light but no difference.I have used an analog meter to monitor the voltage and sometimes it can drop as low as 2 volts when switching on a light.
The other central 12v lights and accessories all work fine.
One strange thing I've noticed on the meter is when a light is switched off, the voltage drops slowly as if it was being discharged through a capacitor unlike the others which show an instant zero at switch off. All three light units work 100% from the battery.
at 12 volt the battery is flat. you could also have a charging problem.do you have a meter,if yes test battery on EHU and charger running the voltage should be 13.5 volts.a good battery is 12.7 volts.at 12.5 it is half charged. strip lights have a booster built in that can hold voltage for a short time but these are boosted form 12v to 120 volt to make the strip light come on. it does sound like the charger is not charging,check all fuses 10 to 15 amp.including one near or inside the charger.
Post last edited on 28/06/2011 15:28:25
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
What Michael says sounds right. The onboard charger in my Swift Corvette isn't quite enough to keep all the 12v stuff fully charged after a few days use. I use an Optimax battery charger wired in instead of the onboard one, this gives me a full charge no matter the load, no more dim lights or Truma hot water ignition problems.
Hi Michael and Stuart. Thanks for the reply, but my fault when I said 12v, that was just a general figure. The reading was above 12v but not quite 13v. I had just recently charged my battery (which is also trickle charged from a solar cell) from a stand alone heavy duty charger and all but the three units at the rear end of the van are all working 100%. I felt sure that those three had their own separate earth but that wasnt the case.
on older units there was a tendency to wire lights different to now and there could be one earth /negative return all the way through and each light joined by the live wire.ok if working but if one bulb or tube fails the others start to fail or not work correctly.check all bulbs.
Post last edited on 29/06/2011 00:14:35
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
Hi Michael. I know all the units are working fine because I've tested them all straight from the battery.
I decided to take a wire straight from a 12v feed in the back of the control unit, across the floor,to one of the light units and hey presto all three are 100%.
This tells me that the 12v + line is not good as I've tested the Negative (earth) and thats fine. That only leaves me with the task of running a + wire to one of three units as they are all in parallel. Not looking forward to drilling holes holes but there's no other way.
If the wire is a bit thin and the battery a bit low then you will get a voltage drop in the wiring. If the battery is a bit low to start with then it may be dropping too much. You have not made it 100% clear if you are trying to run from the onboard charger without fitting a battery. This will definately cause the problem you are experiencing. Most chargers cannot power the 12 volt system directly and are only designed to keep the battery topped up.
THanks for that. I,m running from the on board 110ah leisure battery. Fully charged from an external heavy duty charger. I appreciate the on board charger will not give out the v/a needed to run the lights efficiently. The battery is running at about 12.7v at the moment and the control unit indicator is showing as charged. All other 12v systems and light units are running fine.
I seems the three light units in question are fed with an independent positive line, which in this case must be failing in some way. Can't say if its corrosion or just loose but its certainly fluctuating. My DVM sometimes drops to around 2volts when one of the lights is switched on then tries to rise while the light is flickering. Meanwhile the other lights remain stable.