We've ripped out the interior of our Fleetwood Colchester 1300-2 1993 as we discovered some damp (a spongy wall) on the right handside by the window. As it seems from most of the other postings I've read once you start uncovering damp it just continues and continues! :(
We have now stripped the wallboards and wooden joists from both the front left and right handsides to half way along the side windows plus removed the polystyrene as that too was damp. We have lifted and removed the carpet and found 2 damp areas on the floor, one from a possible leaking heater!
We have a few questions if anyone could help please, these are:-
a) Plywood flooring, we've removed the plywood down to the existing polystyrene and would like to know what adhesive to use to stick the new wood back. There has been a previous repair which has used some thick green resin looking substance and we'd like to use something like that again if anyone knows what it is or what we could use we'd be very greatful.
b) The side panels of the van are constructed from 2 separate sections and would like to know how to reseal these as they are currently split. There is some old adhesive present that we are removing and would like to know what we should use to reseal these seams as they are currently one of the causes of water ingress into the van.
c) What adhesive is best to use when attaching the wallboards to the polystyrene?
d) Awning rail screws.... We've got to replace the wooden battons behind the awning rails, what is the best way to seal the screws in the rail to prevent future water ingress?
If anyone could help us with any of these questions we would be extremely greatful. We've been taking photos of each step we've taken so far and hopefully will be putting them up on the forum once the job is finished, which will hopefully be by the 1st April as we've got a week away booked!
We have a few questions if anyone could help please, these are:-
a) Plywood flooring, we've removed the plywood down to the existing polystyrene and would like to know what adhesive to use to stick the new wood back. There has been a previous repair which has used some thick green resin looking substance and we'd like to use something like that again if anyone knows what it is or what we could use we'd be very greatful.
.....
In my opinion you need to remove the existing floor plywood to as far as the centre of next floor joist so that the replacement plywood has more substantial support than just the polystyrene.
You could then use stainless steel screws to attach it to those exposed 1/2 joists.
The resin substance is probably from a delaminating kit - if replacing the ply you don't need to use that.
It was there to consolidate the seperated layers of the old ply.
If the next nearest floor joist is, say, under a base unit that you don't want to remove or out of reach for other reasons, then you need to create a ' false joist ' at the joint to ensure that there is good support where the two areas of flooring meet.
Otherwise when you put weight on just one side of the joint area the floor will flex as the polystyrene becomes compressed.
I think the best way to create a false joist is to rebate just the polystyrene on the good part of the floor by a depth equal to half the width of the false joist you are going to insert. That way you can screw the ply down to the false joist each side of the joint to give good support there.
It's not easy to explain.
Colin
------------- First outing : 6 - 8th June 2011 - Rivington nr Bolton.
27/6/11 - 15/7/11: Cornwall.
2/9/11 - 5/9/11: Tarporley, Cheshire.
08/10/11 - 13/10/11: Naburn Lock nr York.
19/3/12 - 22/3/12: Southport
If I was rebuilding the floor I would build a timber frame between the two ply layers, glue it with expanding woodworking glue and fix it with stainless steel screws from both sides. Obviously infil the voids with insulation but I wouldnt try to glue the two layers of ply to the polystyrene and rely on that. The reslt will be a much more solid floor that can not delaminate as is very common. you could infill between the timber with Kingspan or Celotex phenolic foam board insulation which you can get from any Travis Perkins. It has better insulation values than polystyrene.
As for the starting point Colin51 has it spot on where he says to insert a timber under the existing good board to provide support. from then on create a frame as I suggest and you will have a very solid floor to rebuild the rest of your van on.
You gan buy the glue such as Geocel Joiners mate and the stainless steel screws from the likes of screwfix.