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Subject Topic: Alko friction pads Post Reply Post New Topic
26/6/2012 at 2:13pm
 Location: Sunny Scotland
 Outfit: Volvo XC90 and Abbey Freestyle 640SE
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Hi Guys

This may well be old news, but I just changed the alko 3004 friction pads and I cannot believe the difference!

I bought the van several months ago and was happy with the way it towed, but had a look in the coupling and the side pads looked "funny".

I replaced all the pads and sure enough, the side pads were contaminated in burnt paint which means its been used on a painted towball at some point.

A new kit of 4 friction pads and screws (and caps) was £20 delivered and a 10min job to swap all of them.

Now the van tows tighter and the stabiliser handle is a very hard push down to get it in place showing the side pads must have been worn as well as contaminated.

Might be worth looking at your own sometime...


David

 

 



26/6/2012 at 2:50pm
 Location: Lancashire
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may help

http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/how-to/how-to-change-side-friction-pads.pdf

http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/handbooks/aks-3004-handbook.pdf



Post last edited on 26/06/2012 15:06:00

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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.


26/6/2012 at 2:59pm
 Location: Sunny Scotland
 Outfit: Volvo XC90 and Abbey Freestyle 640SE
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Yip - that is the side pads... the front and back pads are held in with a torx screw - one each pad.


26/6/2012 at 3:30pm
 Location: Derbyshire
 Outfit: Adria Altea 542DT
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That's a really good point Bestgear, I will take a look at ours. Did you get them direct from Al-Ko ?

Is there a recommended life span on the pads ?


26/6/2012 at 3:51pm
 Location: Sunny Scotland
 Outfit: Volvo XC90 and Abbey Freestyle 640SE
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Quote: Originally posted by clever on 26/6/2012
That's a really good point Bestgear, I will take a look at ours. Did you get them direct from Al-Ko ?

Is there a recommended life span on the pads ?

Hi

I bought mine from Kenmore Caravans - £19.99 delivered for the complete kit on their ebay shop.

I had read that they expect them to be changed after something like 20,000 miles - but all I can say is mine were worn, and I very doubt if many vans approach 20mk miles in their lifetime! I guess the wear was down to the paint and any previous missuse.

The kit comprises:

two side pads

front pad

rear pad

front fixing screw

rear fixing screw

two red caps to seal the ends where the side pads locate.

 

These were genuine alko parts too.

Given its a 10min swap over its worth checking.

Post the change, the stabaliser handle is now very firm to push down - requiring all my weight to do it, and the green sector in the hitch handle is now far more prominent.


David



Post last edited on 26/06/2012 16:01:16

Post last edited on 26/06/2012 16:02:14


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26/6/2012 at 4:18pm
 Location: Derbyshire
 Outfit: Adria Altea 542DT
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Thanks David, I have never looked at mine as there just seems to be so many things to do when you get a new van.

But as you say, for £20 and 10 mins of work it could be worth the effort if it makes the van more stable.


26/6/2012 at 4:21pm
 Location: Sunny Scotland
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Quote: Originally posted by clever on 26/6/2012
Thanks David, I have never looked at mine as there just seems to be so many things to do when you get a new van.

But as you say, for £20 and 10 mins of work it could be worth the effort if it makes the van more stable.

 


Agreed, and you dont see these parts unless you go on your hands and knees and look up into the hitch with a torch...not what you normally would do!

 

David



26/6/2012 at 9:29pm
 Location: Derbyshire
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I have just had a quick look at ours and they don't look great, so I think I will take them out and try to give them a clean with fine emery paper.

According to AL-KOs website 'AL-KO recommend cleaning the pads in this way after every journey to prevent build up and prolong friction pad life'

Sounds like overkill to me! Does anybody do it after every jouney ?


26/6/2012 at 9:57pm
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Bought ours from Kenmore,good service


26/6/2012 at 10:16pm
 Location: Lancashire
 Outfit: Caravan now Sold
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lots of how too here........

http://www.al-ko.co.uk/pages/how-to-tutorials-2.html



-------------
the only silly question is the one you do not ask.


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27/6/2012 at 1:38am
 Location: worksop
 Outfit: coachman wanderer
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DO stabalisers make much differance as I have never towed with one and only had problems with poor loads on trailers 

2 plant trailers stacked and my tow pin was 3 " too low so the trailer was on the front axle. was not able to sort before I set off new it would be bad but driving steady it was ok.

carrying long steel beams on short trailer also gives a poor ride

The caravan seems to be easy. but it does not have an alko and it has a detachable tobar so the traditional leaf type stabaliser will not fit without one of the stupid heavy brackets that dont look like the are supposed to do the job. also as I tow a lot of trailers my towball is greased regually that is no good for alko.



27/6/2012 at 10:10am
 Location: Derbyshire
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Well, I have just removed the side friction pads and I think they certainly need a good clean.



Any ideas how to get the front & rear pads out ?
Do I just remove the screw that goes through the pad ?


27/6/2012 at 2:00pm
 Location: Sunny Scotland
 Outfit: Volvo XC90 and Abbey Freestyle 640SE
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Quote: Originally posted by clever on 27/6/2012


Any ideas how to get the front & rear pads out ?
Do I just remove the screw that goes through the pad ?

 

 

Hi

If you remove the red soft doc rubber off the nose, you will see a single torx screw there.

If you remove the screw, the front pad can be coaxed out from the hitch from underneath.

Once that one is out, put your torx screwdriver through the hole that the front pad screw was in, and you can reach to undo the rear pad screw (same torx size).

The rear pad was tight in mine and needed a wee lever with a small flatblade screwdriver to remove.

Reassembly was easy with no drama.


David



27/6/2012 at 2:31pm
 Location: Sunny Scotland
 Outfit: Volvo XC90 and Abbey Freestyle 640SE
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Quote: Originally posted by clever on 27/6/2012
Well, I have just removed the side friction pads and I think they certainly need a good clean.



Any ideas how to get the front & rear pads out ?
Do I just remove the screw that goes through the pad ?

 

 

Well - the pad on the left looks like mine did (mine was worse..), and now I see it on yours perhaps its dirt or melted plastic and not paint.....

 


David



27/6/2012 at 2:55pm
 Location: Lancashire
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clever

FRICTION PAD REPLACEMENT (FRONT/REAR ONLY):

1) Uncouple the AKS 3004

2) Remove the rubber soft dock (pull up and off) Fig. 19/Item 1 & Fig 19a.

3) Press the safety indicator outwards and secure with SW14 hex. spanner

(not included), (Fig. 19/Item 2).

4) Remove cheese-head screws (Fig. 19/item 3 & Fig 19a), using special torx tool.

5) Press friction lining recess (Fig. 19/Item 4) inwards and pull down and out.

6) Open coupling handle (Fig. 19/Item 8).

7) Remove countersunk head cap screw using special torx tool (Fig. 19/Item 5 & Fig. 16b).

8) Press friction pad inwards with a screwdriver and remove from ball cup.

9) Fitment of new linings takes place in reverse. Tighten screws 3/5 to 5 Nm.

10) Replace rubber soft dock, insert top section first then bottom.

pictures at the bottom

http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/handbooks/aks-3004-handbook.pdf



-------------
the only silly question is the one you do not ask.



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