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Topic: Alko friction pads
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26/6/2012 at 2:13pm
Location: Sunny Scotland Outfit: Volvo XC90 and Abbey Freestyle 640SE
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Hi Guys
This may well be old news, but I just changed the alko 3004 friction pads and I cannot believe the difference!
I bought the van several months ago and was happy with the way it towed, but had a look in the coupling and the side pads looked "funny".
I replaced all the pads and sure enough, the side pads were contaminated in burnt paint which means its been used on a painted towball at some point.
A new kit of 4 friction pads and screws (and caps) was £20 delivered and a 10min job to swap all of them.
Now the van tows tighter and the stabiliser handle is a very hard push down to get it in place showing the side pads must have been worn as well as contaminated.
Might be worth looking at your own sometime...
David
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26/6/2012 at 3:51pm
Location: Sunny Scotland Outfit: Volvo XC90 and Abbey Freestyle 640SE
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Quote: Originally posted by clever on 26/6/2012
That's a really good point Bestgear, I will take a look at ours. Did you get them direct from Al-Ko ?
Is there a recommended life span on the pads ?
Hi
I bought mine from Kenmore Caravans - £19.99 delivered for the complete kit on their ebay shop.
I had read that they expect them to be changed after something like 20,000 miles - but all I can say is mine were worn, and I very doubt if many vans approach 20mk miles in their lifetime! I guess the wear was down to the paint and any previous missuse.
The kit comprises:
two side pads
front pad
rear pad
front fixing screw
rear fixing screw
two red caps to seal the ends where the side pads locate.
These were genuine alko parts too.
Given its a 10min swap over its worth checking.
Post the change, the stabaliser handle is now very firm to push down - requiring all my weight to do it, and the green sector in the hitch handle is now far more prominent.
David
Post last edited on 26/06/2012 16:01:16
Post last edited on 26/06/2012 16:02:14
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27/6/2012 at 2:00pm
Location: Sunny Scotland Outfit: Volvo XC90 and Abbey Freestyle 640SE
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Quote: Originally posted by clever on 27/6/2012
Any ideas how to get the front & rear pads out ? Do I just remove the screw that goes through the pad ?
Hi
If you remove the red soft doc rubber off the nose, you will see a single torx screw there.
If you remove the screw, the front pad can be coaxed out from the hitch from underneath.
Once that one is out, put your torx screwdriver through the hole that the front pad screw was in, and you can reach to undo the rear pad screw (same torx size).
The rear pad was tight in mine and needed a wee lever with a small flatblade screwdriver to remove.
Reassembly was easy with no drama.
David
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27/6/2012 at 2:55pm
Location: Lancashire Outfit: Caravan now Sold
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clever
FRICTION PAD REPLACEMENT (FRONT/REAR ONLY):
1) Uncouple the AKS 3004
2) Remove the rubber soft dock (pull up and off) Fig. 19/Item 1 & Fig 19a.
3) Press the safety indicator outwards and secure with SW14 hex. spanner
(not included), (Fig. 19/Item 2).
4) Remove cheese-head screws (Fig. 19/item 3 & Fig 19a), using special torx tool.
5) Press friction lining recess (Fig. 19/Item 4) inwards and pull down and out.
6) Open coupling handle (Fig. 19/Item 8).
7) Remove countersunk head cap screw using special torx tool (Fig. 19/Item 5 & Fig. 16b).
8) Press friction pad inwards with a screwdriver and remove from ball cup.
9) Fitment of new linings takes place in reverse. Tighten screws 3/5 to 5 Nm.
10) Replace rubber soft dock, insert top section first then bottom.
pictures at the bottom
http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/handbooks/aks-3004-handbook.pdf
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
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