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Subject Topic: Sikaflex Concerns Post Reply Post New Topic
27/6/2012 at 10:26pm
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Hi

 

I'll be helping a mate of mine reseal hus awning rails this weekend and I'd suggested that he use Sikaflex 512 since that seems to be the popular choice here. However he's adamant that I'ts the wrong road arguing that If in the future he ever has to take the rails off again It'd be impossible to get them off If they're stuck on with sikaflex.. He's leaning twords Mastic roll. Anybody have any experience removing rails that had been previously sealed with sikaflex?

 

Cheers

Duff.



27/6/2012 at 10:35pm
 Location: Hants
 Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270
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You would have to use a fine knife blade, but if you did the job properly using Sikaflex you wouldn't have to take them off again.

Why would you take awning rails off if they weren't leaking?


27/6/2012 at 11:12pm
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Lol  fair point..

His van is leaking at the moment  so that'll have to be sorted.. I think he's just worrying that maybe down the road a few years it'll have to be done again and he won't be able to get the rails off without killing em..



27/6/2012 at 11:38pm
 Location: lancs
 Outfit: Dethleffs 550 + volvo s80
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Say the awning rail is 30mm, then use 19mm mastic roll in the middle and put a bead of sikaflex 221 on either side before fixing.This gives a better finish and less sikaflex to cut through if ever the rails need to be removed. (which if done properly will not). Sikaflex 221 is less messy to deal with than 521 and has a curing time of a bit longer, giving you more time to get the finish right.....


28/6/2012 at 7:38am
 Location: Rushden Northants
 Outfit: Mercedes 614D Conversion
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As previously posted, Sikaflex 221 is a better product.

It isn't totally permanent, but being a harder curing product is doesn't allow the movement/flexing that starts leakage in the first place.

Peter



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