Removed the lower awning rail yesterday and most of the side battens fell out (well not quite).
Definitely have to rebuild at least the rear half of the floor, what is the best way to support the body instead of the chassis whilst working on it ?
Have emptied out all the storage compartments and removed the kitchen unit, will remove the storage compartments (bed bases) last to try to keep some strength / support in there.
I have booked a week off work and roped in some help too, almost looking forward to working on it !
Its a Rapido Orline 33E 1985 (judging by the wheels) as we paid £800 for it and one is for sale at £3,950 (OK its a 1992 model) we think it will be worth doing.
Managed to strip out the interior, removed 2 linear feet of full width floor and half of the rear corner, plus 1 square metre of floor was treated with delamination kit. Replaced the lower side beam, new under floor wood, new cross members, new insulation, new top floor sheeting, new lino, replaced interior side panel, painted inside walls (lower half only) and furniture.
Interior furniture to go back in and awning rails to go back on.
Very productive and not really as bad as first thought.
Hi Trevor i have a 1984 pennine pullman and bought it for next to nothing, at 1st we was going to just replace the canvas and the cupboards inside but on further inspection we have lifted the filthy lino and carpet and have noticed that it has mould all over the timber floor and also peeling back some of the wall lining showed us that the side walls of the camper are rotten so now has become a huge project for us and we have decided to gut the whole thing and totaly rebuild it from the floor up.
I know the bedboards and the floor is of Marine ply but what sort of timber is going to be suitable for remaking the side walls and the internal units ie, the cupoboards and seats?
Hi Trevor, this is an old(ish!) post but wondered if you had those photo anywhere to be viewed? I've acquired a Orline 34S about 1985, no real problems just interested in seeing construction stuff on them. Thanks, Mark
I'll have a dig around for the pictures but basically the construction of the floor is 6mm ply on top 25mm battening across the floor with stapled "noggins" between. The resulting box chambers have blue foam block insulation fitted, then there is the 3.6mm ply underneath.
The sandwich is all glued together with the spray on contact adhesive.
I followed the original design but used polystyrene insulation (but this is flammable), lots of screws and angle brackets instead of staples and the ply was stuck down with aliphatic wood glue. New vynil flooring was glued down with spray contact adhesive.
Hi Trevor,
I realise this is an old post, but did you ever find those pictures of before, during and after.
We have a Rapido Orline 34t which we love but the near side back chassis beam has bent downwards and has broken the outer ply of the back corner floor. (Probably from a pothole). Seeing your photos would be very useful.
Also you didn't say how you supported the body of the caravan while working on the caravan.
Any photo's and advice would be greatly appreciated.
To support the body I made a frame from 4" x 2" timbers (under the handles) ensuring the body was square and level.
Once the internal furniture was removed I unbolted the body from the chassis and levelled the chassis.
I was then able to cut out the rotten wood from the body.