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Subject Topic: Floor delamination Post Reply Post New Topic
08/10/2012 at 9:03am
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I hope to tackle a delaminated floor in our caravan over the winter. I see there are two kits available, a one part and a two part epoxy. There is not much difference in price and I have seen mixed reports on the two part epoxy kits.

Has anyone here used the one part kit? Or better yet used both and found one better than the other?
I was thinking of fitting thin laminate flooring around the kitchen and entrance to spread the load in this area while retaining the carpet elsewhere to avoid excess weight. The kitchen is right over the axle. Anyone any thoughts on that?


08/10/2012 at 10:22am
 Location: Lancashire
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Posted by Michael from UKcampsite

De-lamination.

Frightening? Not if you set out your stall and take your time.


This is not a two hour job as stated. When you have finished, you will know why they charge so much at the caravan repair shop.

I have just done my caravan a few months ago. The floor had gone in two places, next to the door entrance and next to the sink four feet away.

You will find that de-lamination is where the floor is used most .i.e. next to the sink and the door entrance.

First decide how much de-lamination you have, ie.2 feet (old school) or 6 feet, and check underside for gas pipes before starting..

This size of the de-lamination is required when you order your epoxy resin mix.

One mix will cover about 3 feet by 3 feet. I bought mine from Barrons - £25 for both tins.

You will also need a large syringe to inject the mixed epoxy resin. Barrons sell this also.

The glues are called Apollo 1 and Apollo 2 I think the code is A8136.

The small tin is the hardener and must be used in the time stated on the tin.

I will go through the steps best I can.

You will need:

A sharp 10mm drill

Some 10 mm round wood to cut and plug the holes, (sold in 6 foot lengths). This needs cutting into plugs, half inch long and sanded down at one end to make insertion easier

You need to:

Remove all carpets or lino.

Tape up all joints and the cowls under the caravan. Use a good tapeline brown 3” wide packing tape.
If you don’t the glue will run through the seams. (You will not know until you see a pool of glue on the path. So this is a must),

Support the floor under the van in some way so it cannot bend when pressure is placed on top.

Do not push up the floor. You can damage the fittings inside.

Use wood blocks stacked up just touching the floor on the underside in the same place as the
de-lamination.

.

Drill a test hole. Find a place that has no gas pipes on the underside.

Slowly drill one hole until it only just touches the plywood at the bottom. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH.

Tape up the drill at this depth, use plenty of tape to stop the drill going deeper than it should.

Mark out the area of de-lamination using a black marker, in a square grid pattern of 4 inch.

Drill to the grid pattern. When finished you will have a large square full of holes to the size of the
de-lamination. I.e.: 3 x 3 feet.

Clean away all and any dust or shavings.

Have a large polythene bag ready to put over the square; the glue does not stick to polythene.

You will need:


A tin or old pan large enough to hold the mix of glue.

A clean strong stick to stir the mix.

Only mix what you need within the time allowed.

Start at the rear end injecting the holes one by one until the glue flows out, then plug with the wood plug.

When finished, place the polythene bag over all the holes.

Put a heavy weight on top i.e. wheels and tyres or gas bottles. Leave for 24 hours to dry.

Open all windows to ventilate the caravan before starting the final tasks.

Protective clothing (masks and gloves) must be worn at this stage.

Sand down all plugs until smooth. Replace flooring.

Posted by Metz from UKcampsite

The delamination repair can be carried out from underneath, but you need to buy the complete kit which works out expensive if you only use it the once,
this is a description of the method I use for the repair of floor delamination.

Determine the extent of the damage from inside the van, transfer the information to the underside, drill a series of 8mm holes through the first layer of ply ONLY these should be centred at 200mm over the whole area, now drill 6mm pilot holes through the insulation until you just touch the upper ply NOT through, mix the 2 part adhesive carefully and load into caulking gun supplied with kit, the mixture will stay usable for about an hour, push the plastic probe into the hole until it touches the upper ply then pull it back a 1/4", pump the adhesive into the floor four or five pulls should do it you will feel the pressure build depending on the severity of the de-lam in that area, work your way across all the holes one line at a time, when injection is complete, place boards inside van and place weights on to apply an even pressure across the reworked area, place plugs into holes, and leave for 24/48 hours. DO NOT inject to close to original joins in the floor!!! Make sure you clean all equipment with the supplied solvent within the hour. The kit is available from www.theglue.co.uk .

You can also find delamination repair kits on ebay.

Here's how Brian Davies did the delamination repair step by step, with pictures Click_here .

some have used the one shot and had good results.



-------------
the only silly question is the one you do not ask.


08/10/2012 at 4:44pm
 Location: Hants
 Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270
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I have used both products for delamination repairs on boats.

The 2 part epoxy is very strong, has excellent adhesion and doesn't expand. If enough of this gets into contact with the delaminated surfaces a very strong repair will be effected.

The one shot stuff is also an excellent adhesive but the fact that it expands as it cures can be a double edged sword. It is great for its gap filling properties and it is quite likely to coat the required parts as it will expand in between them (it uses moisture to cure too). The problem is that it can distort the surfaces due to its expansion. Its fine if the parts can be well supported (or clamped)from above and below - and there is an escape route for excess foaming glue. If not, the surfaces can be pushed apart and bulge.

I have had excellent and very long lasting results from both varieties. Structurally the 2 part epoxy is stronger but you have to know it has reached far enough to coat the parts. The one part product is an excellent glue and does a great job as long as you are aware of the expansion effects.


09/10/2012 at 7:38am
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Thanks Al+Mel. I wasn't aware of the expansion factor with the one part kit. I had considered using longer dowels that could sit on the bottom layer of ply to take some of the load. Having looked a bit deeper it seems the two part system is better suited for winter application and the single part is for summer. It's not clear if that is because the latter is slow drying in the cold or the former dries too quickly when its warm though.

I might try the one part one. I've not seen any complaints about it although I have only heared your comments on it anyway.


09/10/2012 at 4:14pm
 Location: Lancashire
 Outfit: Caravan now Sold
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mix the 2 part adhesive carefully and load into caulking gun supplied with kit, the mixture will stay usable for about an hour,

not a lot of time even with the two part,best to mix as much as you can cope with during that hour.then do another mix later.



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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.


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09/10/2012 at 6:30pm
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I would echo Al&Mel, but I would now only use the two part.

-------------
Regards
Karen


10/10/2012 at 1:01pm
 Location:  Anglesey - Wales
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We used the 2 part kit also.

We found that although the whole task was time consuming we actually found that the task was quite easy to do and I would not hesitate at doing it again should we have to.



-------------
Degsy Rowlands is my love, my life and a lunatic!!!!!!!! Louise x


10/10/2012 at 8:50pm
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The biggest put off to be honest is getting the carpets up. I was thinking of just removing the section of carpet over the spongy area of floor and replacing that area with some cheap (ie thin and relatively light) laminate flooring which would also help spread the load on the floor and reduce the chances if it going again.


10/10/2012 at 9:17pm
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Sounds like a plan. Tbh, I can't imagine it going again. I think the strongest repair would be to drill holes through the top layer, right through the foam to the bottom ply layer, then inject 2 part epoxy so the bottom layer is wetted out. When the dowels are inserted they will bond to the bottom layer, the foam and the top layer (check the top of the dowel is wet). When this lot has cured it will be far stronger than the original build. Should last forever!


10/10/2012 at 10:04pm
 Location: Lancashire
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hi if you follow the instructions for the floor from above in my post it will be solid.possibly stronger than it was when new.

Post last edited on 10/10/2012 22:12:14

-------------
the only silly question is the one you do not ask.


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14/10/2012 at 7:59am
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I've done a couple of floor repairs over the last year to my own and my brothers van and used the 2 part system both times. a couple of tips I think are worth taking on board are to make sure you tape up the joints of the floor boards under the van, to stop the glue seeping out rather than spreading inside the floor. And cover the area you are repairing with brown packing tape before you drill and inject the glue, then remove it straight after you finish injecting. This keeps the floor nice and clean because you do get some excess glue.

I was given these tips by a pro repairer and thought they were good advice. It's an easy and effective repair but a little messy.



15/10/2012 at 12:10pm
 Location: Nottingham
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Hi, there always seems to be quite a few discusions on here about floor delamination but what I was wondering is, and it may be a silly question, but what will happen long term if you dont repair a spongy floor? If the underside is solid will it eventualy rot through? does it affect the actual structual strength of the van? or can you just put up with it being a bit soft in places? I dont have a problem with my caravan but like I say just wondered.

-------------
Rose


15/10/2012 at 12:18pm
 Location: Lancashire
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if you leave it chances are it will get worse as it delaminates more.it is not rotting because its not wet.high chance of squeeking floors.there could be a sinking in varoius places as the foam gets more damaged. over many years it may become a structual problem.

_____________5 mm thin ply

_____foam______filling___

_____________5 mm thin ply

construction side view.





Post last edited on 15/10/2012 12:28:45

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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.


15/10/2012 at 4:42pm
 Location: Nottingham
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Ah thanks for explaining Michael. Hmm squeeking floor, could get annoying. I do like this site,You learn something new all the time, 

-------------
Rose


15/10/2012 at 5:29pm
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your welcome

-------------
the only silly question is the one you do not ask.



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