First of all any spares you might need you can get from me as a lot of dealers are now ringing me I doubt you will get spares elsewhere!!!, but if yours is fitted with a reset switch this is most likely the problem. It is located where pobrey quite eloquently describes but as jennifernn says, "even when you know where it is"??.
Older models are not resettable but both the old and the later ones have the same cover so if you press and it works then OK but if not you will most likely need an upgrade kit and these are now like hens teeth...I have one kit left and no chance of replacements although I think I have found a source.
The PCB is damaged by a worn out fan motor...I have never repaired one that had a fault on the mains side.
Four reasons for tripping, 1), all vents shut. 2) worn and slow fan or spinning backward. 3), fluff and dust build up on fan and or elements. 4) high resistance across trip switch itself causing it to heat itself up. This last one is increasing common as the units are several years old now and are wearing out.
Another problem I have been told about but it does not cause it to 'trip', is the temperature sensor getting a coat of fluff which once the elements switch off does not allow to switch back on again for a much longer time than it should...so it tends to blow cold for a while. Easy to check the sensor is on the end of the two brown wires from the pcb and just pushes into the casting.
Several people have asked me for complete Fanmasters in the last few weeks, I don't know if any are on this forum but I have sourced a very limited supply of brand new and boxed units together with some 20 Cascade 2 GE water heaters...just thought I would mention it? http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/directory2/details.asp?revid=568&typeid=
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