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Subject Topic: Carver Fanmaster not working Post Reply Post New Topic
28/2/2005 at 7:20pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: None Entered
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Joined: 28/2/2005

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Hi all.

I was on a site last year and the electric tripped. It has been suggested that the PCB will have blown. The fan works but the heater does not.

Q. Does anyone know how much they are.

I have just been told that it may simply be the reset switch.

Q. How do I get to it, I have a bailey ranger 2 berth. The gas firs is inside the cupboard unit.

 



28/2/2005 at 7:35pm
 Location: Birmingham
 Outfit: Avondale Perle 4-berth
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Joined: 11/4/2003

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The reset switch on ours is on the left of the main unit at the back. You get to ours by removing the drawer above it, but obviously yours might be different. The fan has a plastic casing on the back. If you feel the left hand side of the casing  there is a little flap (you can feel it because it has gaps round three sides) flush with the case. Press this in. You won't feel a click, but if it is the trip switch then your heater will start working again.

Get back to me if you don't understand my rambling.



-------------
Paul



28/2/2005 at 8:13pm
 Location: NW of Glasgow
 Outfit: Sterling Searcher 2008 Volvo XC90
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Joined: 14/1/2005

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If you close too many of the air outlets in the van then it can cause the heater to get too hot under the collar and it will cut out and all you get is cold air.   Ours is very sensitive and cuts out frequently.  The reset" switch" is as described above on ours too and we also have a drawer above ,if yours is in the base of the wardrobe then the base of the cupboard above probably lifts off.   The "switch" is quite difficult to locate even when you know where it is


28/2/2005 at 9:01pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: http: www.arcsystems.biz
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First of all any spares you might need you can get from me as a lot of dealers are now ringing me I doubt you will get spares elsewhere!!!, but if yours is fitted with a reset switch this is most likely the problem. It is located where pobrey quite eloquently describes but as jennifernn says, "even when you know where it is"??.

Older models are not resettable but both the old and the later ones have the same cover so if you press and it works then OK but if not you will most likely need an upgrade kit and these are now like hens teeth...I have one kit left and no chance of replacements although I think I have found a source.

The PCB is damaged by a worn out fan motor...I have never repaired one that had a fault on the mains side.

Four reasons for tripping, 1), all vents shut. 2) worn and slow fan or spinning backward. 3), fluff and dust build up on fan and or elements. 4) high resistance across trip switch itself causing it to heat itself up. This last one is increasing common as the units are several years old now and are wearing out.

Another problem I have been told about but it does not cause it to 'trip', is the temperature sensor getting a coat of fluff which once the elements switch off does not allow to switch back on again for a much longer time than it should...so it tends to blow cold for a while. Easy to check the sensor is on the end of the two brown wires from the pcb and just pushes into the casting.

Several people have asked me for complete Fanmasters in the last few weeks, I don't know if any are on this forum but I have sourced a very limited supply of brand new and boxed units together with some 20 Cascade 2 GE water heaters...just thought I would mention it? http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/directory2/details.asp?revid=568&typeid=

 



28/2/2005 at 10:32pm
 Location: West Midlands
 Outfit: Ssangyong Rodius and Trigano Randger
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hi gary

just been on your web page,was wondering if you might know why our blown air heating isn't as powerful in the end bathroom??? it is the furthest vent away from the heater...is it normal to experience a loss of power here or could the pipework be blocked???



-------------
Jult 4th...Hollins Farm
August 24th....Warren Farm
October 23rd....mmmm who knows ???


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28/2/2005 at 10:46pm
 Location: NW of Glasgow
 Outfit: Sterling Searcher 2008 Volvo XC90
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We have the same layout as you and the heat from the bathroom vent is quite feeble.  As you say, it is the furthest from the heater and this seems to be the main problem, also the duct has to go under the floor to get across the doorway and is not insulated.  We also have an outlet into an adjacent "wet locker", which we use only for storage , so we have taped that outlet shut.    When we bought the van and were being shown how it all worked we were told to close off all the other outlets if we wanted to heat up the bathroom. First time we tried that the carver overheated and we couldn't find the reset switch , so now we always leave 2 outlets open.  We also carry a small fan heater as backup in case there is a major problem when we are far from home , and find it better to put off the carver and use the fan heater if we want the bathroom really cosy


28/2/2005 at 10:51pm
 Location: West Midlands
 Outfit: Ssangyong Rodius and Trigano Randger
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thanks jennifernn

you've got the answers to all my probs tonight!!!!

just looked on thetford site for battery doors as you said...bingo!!!! think they've got it!!

thanks



-------------
Jult 4th...Hollins Farm
August 24th....Warren Farm
October 23rd....mmmm who knows ???


28/2/2005 at 11:01pm
 Location: NW of Glasgow
 Outfit: Sterling Searcher 2008 Volvo XC90
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Hi sue&John    just looked at your pictures...is that your present van?   Looks like you also have a door where we have the wet locker thing.  Is that your toilet on that side or do you have the locker like we do?   If so you may also have an extra air outlet.


01/3/2005 at 9:59pm
 Location: West Midlands
 Outfit: Ssangyong Rodius and Trigano Randger
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hi jennifernn

no we don't have a wet locker (what's it for??) i think you can see the cooker and fridge vents. we have a thetford door and battery door (will have lol) they are the only two.



-------------
Jult 4th...Hollins Farm
August 24th....Warren Farm
October 23rd....mmmm who knows ???



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