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 Topic: Pinprick holes; Fill/Cover?
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01/7/2013 at 10:21am
Location: Cornwall
Outfit: Elddis Wisp 450 CT & Talbot Express
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Hi - I joined a few months back after buying an ABI Ambassador Ace and finding it rotten to the core. Now my degree's finished I'm itching to get going on repairing it.
I've just been pondering the multiple pinprick holes in the skin - the vast majority of them being in the front end of the caravan, where I'm removing absolutely everything anyway. I'd been planning on using Isopon P40 but have just been wondering about adding a new skin underneath the old one by way of attaching 0.7mm aluminium sheet to the underside. An 8 x 4 sheet weighs just under 6 kilos.
Is there any merit in doing it this way? I think it would be much quicker but I don't have a clue what I'm doing :D
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01/7/2013 at 11:04am
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I'd go with Isopon P40, It will be easier, cheaper & will do the job.
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Regards, Jack+Jon.
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01/7/2013 at 1:00pm
Location: Cornwall
Outfit: Elddis Wisp 450 CT & Talbot Express
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Thanks :) I'm tackling a small rail and a tiny patch of pinprick holes on the back today. It'll be my first ever attempt at a caravan repair. I'll use the Isopon P40 for the holes. Wish me luck!
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01/7/2013 at 1:08pm
Location: Cornwall
Outfit: Elddis Wisp 450 CT & Talbot Express
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Use the fixall as a filler? That sounds interesting and easier than mixing the isopon. I'll use the isopon for the back because they aren't serious and I'm impatient but I'd definitely be interested in using fixall for the front. Thanks.
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01/7/2013 at 2:05pm
Location: Cornwall
Outfit: Elddis Wisp 450 CT & Talbot Express
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Yeah, that Isopon stuff isn't for me :D It seems to be designed for bigger holes. I'll have a look in the Range - thanks.
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01/7/2013 at 2:39pm
Location: flint north wales
Outfit: swift challenger 480se 2002
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IF you do go for araldite DO NOT use the quick drying stuff .the one you want is the one that takes 3 days to fully cure i.e original araldite .i used to do a lot of boat building some years ago and the quick drying stuff invariably leaked over time .the long cure araldite will still be good today
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01/7/2013 at 3:35pm
Location: Essex
Outfit: 1996 Bailey Senator 5000
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I used PU18 polyeurethane sealant on my pin prick holes. Much like sikaflex but cheaper. If the aluminium is cleaned properly it will stick very well and can be smoothed with a wet finger.
It's also flexible so less likely to crack and leak than polyester resins (bodyfiller/bridger).
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02/7/2013 at 8:26am
Location: Cornwall
Outfit: Elddis Wisp 450 CT & Talbot Express
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I'm going to try sikaflex I think because I know I can definitely get it in the chandlery dept of the big builders merchants.
Thanks all.
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13/7/2013 at 7:59am
Location: Dorset
Outfit: Swift Classic Corvette 1998
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Cledry - I'd be interested to know what you found best please. We have a couple of breach marks, where the caravan is oxydizing from the inside due to damp. So will be good to know what to use when or if we get to that bit.....eeekkk
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13/7/2013 at 10:52am
Location: Cornwall
Outfit: Elddis Wisp 450 CT & Talbot Express
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I had to get rid of the caravan. It was too rotten. I didn't like the glass resin though. It seemed designed for bigger holes. I was about to try sikaflex.
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13/7/2013 at 11:38am
Location: Hants
Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270
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If you had it stripped down already the best plan would be to use Sikaflex to bond a second skin inside the area with holes in, then smooth it and fair it up outside. Any alu. offcut would do inside and the finished job would last forever.
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13/7/2013 at 3:10pm
Location: Hants
Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270
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If the repaired area is still sound there will probably be a wooden spar behind the holes. Clean up the damaged area, degrease with meths then force some Sikaflex into the holes. Clean the excess Sikaflex off with white spirit before it cures, so you just have the Pinholes filled and none on the surrounding area. This should result in a repair that is almost invisible from a short distance away.
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