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Subject Topic: Citrus caravans Post Reply Post New Topic
PersonJimthefish
19/7/2013 at 12:38pm
 Location: ABerdeen
 Outfit: Compass Lynx View Jimthefish's Profile View Profile   Reply to Jimthefish Reply   Quote Jimthefish Quote  
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Hello folks. Can I start off by thanking you for the advice I've already found here. I need more though and may need more in the future. I've been sold a lemon! It's a Campass Lynx 340/2. First problem was a soft floor, which I fixed with a single shot delamination kit. The two part kits would have been useless in this heat! I also have a problem with the nearside front corner steady. It looks like the steady is loose and the floor where it's fitted is breaking up. Closer inspection suggests the steady fittings are in the front compartment, under a sheet of aluminium. How feasible would it be to remove this, cut the totally rusted bolts, replace them with nuts/bolts and washers then use the remains of the delamination kit to firm the whole thing up?


PersonFrannyvan
19/7/2013 at 12:47pm
 Location: Dorset
 Outfit: Swift Classic Corvette 1998 View Frannyvan's Profile View Profile   Reply to Frannyvan Reply   Quote Frannyvan Quote  
Joined: 08/7/2013

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No help, but just wanted to say, I don't know how people have the balls to sell these shoddy caravans to us. Mine is a bit of a pup. As you said the help here is invaluable.... Thanks xxx


PersonAl+Mel
19/7/2013 at 5:10pm
 Location: Hants
 Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270 View Al+Mel's Profile View Profile   Reply to Al+Mel Reply   Quote Al+Mel Quote  
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Quote: Originally posted by Jimthefish on 19/7/2013

Hello folks. Can I start off by thanking you for the advice I've already found here. I need more though and may need more in the future. I've been sold a lemon! It's a Campass Lynx 340/2. First problem was a soft floor, which I fixed with a single shot delamination kit. The two part kits would have been useless in this heat! I also have a problem with the nearside front corner steady. It looks like the steady is loose and the floor where it's fitted is breaking up. Closer inspection suggests the steady fittings are in the front compartment, under a sheet of aluminium. How feasible would it be to remove this, cut the totally rusted bolts, replace them with nuts/bolts and washers then use the remains of the delamination kit to firm the whole thing up?




Got to be worth a go! If that doesn't do it you might have to cut a bit of the floor away and connect a new bit using a wooden sub-frame. Scoop out some foam from the sound area and screw and glue the new frame so its half inserted into the existing floor - then you can screw and epoxy the ply skins to the part of the frame that is protruding top and bottom with the styrofoam in between. Should be stronger than new.


PersonJimthefish
05/8/2013 at 9:51pm
 Location: ABerdeen
 Outfit: Compass Lynx View Jimthefish's Profile View Profile   Reply to Jimthefish Reply   Quote Jimthefish Quote  
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Back after two weeks away in the 'new' van. As I mentioned before, i've discovered some more problems. Again I've already found some answers on here so my front window blind now works after re-tensioning! However I have a hot water problem. The tank does fill but with a lot of gurgling and groaning and very slow flow from the taps. I did manage to try the heaters, gas and electric, and both work. However the slow flow continues to be a problem. When I drained the system ( before starting to explore it) I noticed that when I openeed the hot taps to allow it to drain there was some water flow from the water feed, where the pump normally plugs in, before I opened and got a good rush of water from the drain plug. Am I looking at a stuck or partially jammed non-return valve in the system?


Personstephenn280575
06/8/2013 at 7:59am
 Location: Skipton
 Outfit: Coachman Wanderer & Audi A6 allroad View stephenn280575's Profile View Profile   Reply to stephenn280575 Reply   Quote stephenn280575 Quote  
Joined: 04/5/2008

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We suffered from a low flow. It turned to be calcium deposits inside the tap. On ours there is a mesh screen right at the end which unscrews. We undid this, cleaned out all the scale and hey presto full strength water flow.

Could be something similar??


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Personjohnjory
06/8/2013 at 6:24pm
 Location: Lowestoft Suffolk
 Outfit: Skoda Superb DSG + Elddis Affinity 550 View johnjory's Profile View Profile   Reply to johnjory Reply   Quote johnjory Quote  
Joined: 31/10/2003

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"....Am I looking at a stuck or partially jammed non-return valve in the system?..."

I would concur with this.

Without knowing the exact system you have, have a look at Leisure Shop Direct and search for 'non return valve'


PersonJimthefish
07/8/2013 at 2:41pm
 Location: ABerdeen
 Outfit: Compass Lynx View Jimthefish's Profile View Profile   Reply to Jimthefish Reply   Quote Jimthefish Quote  
Joined: 19/7/2013

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The work continues! (Stopped at the moment by rain!). I've managed dto get the front steady off. the two coach bolts nearest the side of the van simply tore through the floor and framing! I've managed to take off the ply base and found that there isn't much insulation in the space, it seems to have been made up of wooden blocks, cut to fit the rounded front corner of the van. Most of this was rotten and I've cut back to reasonably good wood. I would like to treat this wood to ensure it stays firm and then cut a wood block to fit the whole area. This would be about 350x110mm of 25mm thick planking. How does  a coat of something like 'No More Nails' on the top, fixed through the floor with screws and then  a bottom layer of 3mm ply sound? Any recommendations for a sealant to use around the edges?


PersonAl+Mel
07/8/2013 at 7:32pm
 Location: Hants
 Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270 View Al+Mel's Profile View Profile   Reply to Al+Mel Reply   Quote Al+Mel Quote  
Joined: 18/9/2010

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Sikaflex as sealant and adhesive. No more nails is not very good in areas that could have high moisture levels.


PersonJimthefish
07/8/2013 at 7:52pm
 Location: ABerdeen
 Outfit: Compass Lynx View Jimthefish's Profile View Profile   Reply to Jimthefish Reply   Quote Jimthefish Quote  
Joined: 19/7/2013

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Here's the problem area,112 and the proposed solution 112


PersonJimthefish
14/8/2013 at 11:30am
 Location: ABerdeen
 Outfit: Compass Lynx View Jimthefish's Profile View Profile   Reply to Jimthefish Reply   Quote Jimthefish Quote  
Joined: 19/7/2013

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Work progresses. I've repaired the floor using a piece of 1" wood cut to shape to make a solid corner section. This was bonded in place using the Evo-Grip except where it butts on to foam. I used the Unibond extreme sealant there. A sheet of marine ply cut to cover the whaole section and EVO-Grip, Extreme repair sealant and (from inside the caravan) floor repair foam used to fix it all. Corner steady and bulkhead carraige bolts replaced and the steady is now in fact steady! After confirmation from your good selves I've replaced the non return valve on the heater and now have hot water that runs at full flow. Thanks again! Next on the list, replace the mushroom vent on the toilet roof.


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PersonJimthefish
15/8/2013 at 6:16pm
 Location: ABerdeen
 Outfit: Compass Lynx View Jimthefish's Profile View Profile   Reply to Jimthefish Reply   Quote Jimthefish Quote  
Joined: 19/7/2013

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Mushroom vent replaced and while I was up there I re sealed the skylight. Just in time I thinkl as it practically lifted off! I can't remember who suggested it but I'd like to thank them for the idea of putting mastic tape in the fridge to make it easier to work with. One question though. Is it possible to overtighten the screws holding the roof light on. As I tightened them I noticed the frame distorting in places. Should I try to even this up by tightening other screws or loosening off the tight ones? Mastic seal is complete all round.



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