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Subject Topic: wanted advise on serious damp repair Post Reply Post New Topic
26/7/2013 at 9:26am
 Location: Norfolk
 Outfit: 97 Swift Archway Freelander TD4
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Hi All
I am now going to attempt the repair of our 1997 Swift Archway, the problem is on the near side it has a slight bulge about a foot up from the floor which extends from a foot from the front almost to the door which goes behind the kitchen units (which will have to be taken out) what i am looking for is someone with the expertis to advise me prefferably by SKYPE so i can show the extent of the problem and be available for any queries, can anyone help please regards Len


27/7/2013 at 5:21pm
 Location: Dorset
 Outfit: Swift Classic Corvette 1998
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Put some pics on - someone will help. Also have a look through some other threads to get done ideas.


28/7/2013 at 9:58pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: Navara - Coachman Amara
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Hi Len,

Good to see a good ole norfolk boy on here!!

I can't be too far away from you and always willing to give help advise and encouragement.

Simon


28/7/2013 at 10:32pm
 Location: Norfolk
 Outfit: 97 Swift Archway Freelander TD4
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Hi Simon

We are just outside Yarmouth, seem to be getting on with the repair kitchen unit removed and most of the rotten wood removed, will leave it for a few days to dry out,also not sure what adhesive/sealer to use.

Are you on Skype if so I can show you the extent of the damp as I have a reverse camera on my tablet so I can show you and talk to you at the same time, my Skype name is lbserve1

Best Regards
Len


29/7/2013 at 8:18am
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: Navara - Coachman Amara
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Hi Len, I am near wymondham, good to hear you are progressing well, I would remove as much of the wood that you need to remove when it is wet as i find it much easier than if it has been allowed to dry.

What and where do you want to seal / stick ?

I dont have skype at the moment - will try and set it up later.

Simon


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29/7/2013 at 9:18am
 Location: Norfolk
 Outfit: 97 Swift Archway Freelander TD4
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H i Simon

The main part to stick/seal is the wall to floor the battens are rotten from about a foot from the front to the wheel arch so much so you can see daylight through it, still not vsure what to do there yet, it is a crap design no upright battens and only one horizontal batten about a foot from the floor, i will show you when you get skype set up, i will be putting in new upright battens from the floor to window level if i can get swomethingt to bond the new wood to the outer skin.

I am retired now so have plenty of time to do it, and the van is at home, speak to you soon.

Best Regards
Len


29/7/2013 at 9:31am
 Location: Hants
 Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270
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Sikaflex will bond it if you degrease everything properly.


29/7/2013 at 6:17pm
 Location: Norfolk
 Outfit: 97 Swift Archway Freelander TD4
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Thanks Al-Mel

I thought sikaflex would be the answer although expensive, what I am looking to do is put in new upright bearers to pull in the sidewall about 18mm would the bond be strong enough to do this I have cleaned off the polystyrene does it have to be perfectly clean.

Best Regards
Len


29/7/2013 at 6:32pm
 Location: Hants
 Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270
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The bond will be plenty strong enough but you will have to clean and degrease well. You don't want it to stick to the muck rather than the 'van. The professionals park the 'van near a wall, then inflate a large flat cushion (lilo?) type thing to push the panel in and flatten it before bonding in the inner framework.


29/7/2013 at 6:52pm
 Location: Norfolk
 Outfit: 97 Swift Archway Freelander TD4
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Thanks again Al+mel

Sorry to be a pain in the a**e but i want to make sure it holds, i have scraped off the polystyrene and it has left a residue does this haveto be clean aswell, the van is at the side of the house i can use props but how long does sikaflex take to set, the sikaflex to use would be 512

Best Regards
Len


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29/7/2013 at 8:41pm
 Location: Hants
 Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270
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If there is a residue on the ally skin the danger is that the Sikaflex will stick to that and the foam or frames, then pull the residue off. The cleaner you can get the ally the better. Sikaflex is not that easy to spread, so a large wallpaper scraper might be handy to get a thinly spread coat. Sikaflex grabs quite quickly (30 min or so) but takes 24 hrs to cure.

Are you sure the residue isn't aluminium oxide? If it is it will be pretty much a part of the ally skin, so as long as it isn't powdery the Sikaflex should bond well to it. If Sikaflex is applied to a well degreased surface it will bond permanently. I've seen the gellcoat pulled off a GRP panel before Sikaflex parted from the panel and a fitting it was stuck to!


30/7/2013 at 10:05am
 Location: Norfolk
 Outfit: 97 Swift Archway Freelander TD4
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Hi Al+Mel

The residue I am speaking about is where I have removed the polystyrene to put in additional vertical bearers as there are non probably why it has bulged, the residue looks like the remains of the polystyrene, I will try and remove this back to bare aly but not sure what to use, any idea's.

Best Regards
Len


30/7/2013 at 12:46pm
 Location: Hants
 Outfit: Fleetwood Heritage 640 EB & ML270
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Very gentle rubbing with a nylon scourer then degreasing with plenty of meths might be the way to go. The trouble is that the ally skin is paper thin and will dent or score if you go at it too hard. The edge of a credit card used flat and gently as a scraper might be another way.


09/8/2013 at 2:17pm
 Location: Reading
 Outfit: Eccles Amethyst
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Re spreading sikeflex, i find that if you leave the tube in the sun for an hour or two before using it it will spread a lot easier and also be easier to get out of the tube.



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