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Subject Topic: 1992 elddis whirlwind - damp ! Post Reply Post New Topic
19/3/2014 at 3:43pm
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Have found damp, well actually its sodden in the front offside corner of our whirlwind, We are using it in 4 weeks,so no time to do a proper repair I guess, so I just need to get it temporarily sorted until october when I can get it in the garage and remove all the interior.

I first noticed the the front side where it meets the front panel was soft just above the seat, so i decided to cut a section of the panelling away below the top of the seat back, so it cant be noticed when cusions on for now.
I had a small fan heater in there last night and it has dried quite a lot so ill give it another couple of evenings.
When removing the wallboard you can see it has left the bottom ply of wood,which seems to be glued to the insulation, is there a way of getting it off without ripping the the polystyrene to bits ? it needs to come off so I can get to the window frame timbers (wet as well) but can't see how i can do it without taking all the insulation with it (which also feels like its glued to the outer skin ?
The timber above the hook up box is rotten, as is the timber right at the front, which goes through into the locker box, from inside the locker box the timber that runs above (under the front shelf) is dry and also all the timbers around the front windows are all solid and dry.
There were a few gaps in the rail above the windows and also where the side rail starts to curve down so I have sealed these with silicone until I have time to remove them all and do properly.
some pics ..




Post last edited on 19/03/2014 16:22:39


19/3/2014 at 7:38pm
 Location: Dorset
 Outfit: Swift Classic Corvette 1998
View Frannyvan's Profile View Profile   Reply to Frannyvan Reply   Quote Frannyvan Quote  
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Yes the insulation is glued to both the wallboard and ALU skin, that is what forms the solid construction on the caravan. You just need to be careful with removing the wallboard from the polystyrene by using a paint scraper/wallpaper scraper and get between then and gently chisel off the board.
Check out wizards site:
http://www.1carpc.co.uk/wcdr/favorites.htm
Plus do some research by searching on this part of the site using the phrase "damp"

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20/3/2014 at 7:19am
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Thanks, i know what im dealing with now.
Have looked at all the damp threads,from the cupboard back is dry so its really just the front corners back as far as and including the side window timbers that would need replacing.

The front window timbers are dry and sound.

Im a dryliner by trade, so i'm guessing this is just a mini version of building internal walls in houses.
so ideally it is possible to remove the wallboard with out disturbing the insulation much.

what about the the triangle shaped timbers that you can see in the left and right inside corners of the front locker, are these a pain to replace ?

what kind of timescale would you say it would be to do this ? I reckon I could easily get all the front furniture (seats,curtains,top lockers etc) removed and wallboard removed in a day ?
Is there any reason why blue treated roofing batten can't be used to replace the rotten timbers, i plan on using soudal fix all to bond the new timbers in and also use this to rebond the external trim. can the fixall be used for the window rubbers or is best to stick to the mastic tape for that job ?


20/3/2014 at 3:54pm
 Location: Dorset
 Outfit: Swift Classic Corvette 1998
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I would use soudal for everything if you're confident with it.
We only replaced the insulation that had to come out to fix the Alu corrosion behind it. If it's not damaged, then leave it to dry out.
I would say you'd be able to complete the work in a couple of weekends, seeing as you are quite handy. The drying out can take time, but we had hot weather when we did ours last year, so was dry in about a week. You should be able to dry it out between 2 Weekends with a dehumidifier or fan.
I recall seeing a thread about the window corners and remember someone saying they made new ones out of wood. Might be worth doing a bit of research on old threads.

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20/3/2014 at 4:12pm
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Thats a great help, cheers.
there is a bit of pitting low down on the aluminium panel so ill sort this whist it's apart, could a thin layer of the fix all be suitable for the inside of the shell where the pitting is or would I be better off laying a section of fibreglass matting over the area from the inside.
does the soudal fix all go off solid like sikaflex/tigerseal etc, guessing it would be a good seal for the windows but would be a pain if they ever needed to come out.
guess it could be worth giving the whole window apature a thin coating of fix all or similar as well before fitting seal.


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21/3/2014 at 6:31am
 Location: Dorset
 Outfit: Swift Classic Corvette 1998
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Little tip I picked up on here ; use a small piece of drinks can stuck on the inside with your PU sealant then stick a badge, decal or reflector on the offending part on the outside.
Yes the windows will be a bugger to get out, but will you need to?

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