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Subject Topic: Floor repair advise Post Reply Post New Topic
PersonDave+Maria
13/1/2015 at 9:14pm
 Location: Wigan
 Outfit: 2003 Swift Accord 490 2010 Honda CR-V View Dave+Maria's Profile View Profile   Reply to Dave+Maria Reply   Quote Dave+Maria Quote  
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Right to cut a long story short, I thought I had a leaky door, but turned out to be lower awning rail thought I had fixed it last year, but I must not of sealed it properly so its getting done again.

This is where I need advise. The wood got wet behind the door and flaked up when drying out so have de-flaked most of it but is down to polystyrene middle in places. How can I fill in the damage to make it as level as possible, the polystyrene is still rock hard so has been unaffected by the moisture




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Dave + Maria


PersonGrampian91
13/1/2015 at 11:30pm
 Location: Midlands
 Outfit: Mondeo Avondale Gram View Grampian91's Profile View Profile   Reply to Grampian91 Reply   Quote Grampian91 Quote  
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Cut out all the damaged ply and bond in a new piece. Get a tight a fit as you can.


PersonLobeyDosser
14/1/2015 at 12:20am
 Location: Argyll Scotland
 Outfit: 1997 Bailey Ranger 470 4 View LobeyDosser's Profile View Profile   Reply to LobeyDosser Reply   Quote LobeyDosser Quote  
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I had the same problem.

I suspect it was not the bottom awning rail but in fact that previous owners had left the door open when it was raining and the carpet had got wet and the floor had rotted from there.

So I used a workmate power scraper and lifted 2 of the 3 veneers of the top ply, leaving 1 veneer.
I then cut a cardboard template of the part that needed replaced and from that cut a sheet of aluminium that I had knocking about.

I glued this to the floor using Gorilla Glue.
I placed heavy weights on the aluminium until the glue set.

Replacing the wood with the aluminium spreads the load better than wood and it also means that should the carpet get wet again, it will do no damage.

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Lobey.


PersonHarpmaker
14/1/2015 at 12:26am
 Location: Auckland New Zealand
 Outfit: Toyota Hiace conversion View Harpmaker's Profile View Profile   Reply to Harpmaker Reply   Quote Harpmaker Quote  
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I had the same problem and did as Grampian suggests. I scored through the top layer of ply (in my case level with the fridge cabinet) and carefully removed the top layer with a scraper. While it was exposed I took the time to put in some epoxy to make sure the foam was securely attached to the bottom layer of ply and then cut and epoxied in a new top piece. Supported underneath as in a delamination repair, put weights on top and left it for 24 hours. It was solid as a rock afterwards. One thing I will suggest is that when you have the top ply off, check the frame timber at the edge of the floor in case it has started to rot. I was lucky mine was just wet and dried out well.

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Alan in New Zealand


PersonDave+Maria
14/1/2015 at 8:51am
 Location: Wigan
 Outfit: 2003 Swift Accord 490 2010 Honda CR-V View Dave+Maria's Profile View Profile   Reply to Dave+Maria Reply   Quote Dave+Maria Quote  
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Do I just cut out the affected part I have de-flaked and glue new peice to foam inner, or do I need to cut back to any sort of joist?

Also what thickness of ply do you recommend?

Thanks



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Dave + Maria


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PersonBilly....
14/1/2015 at 9:00am
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The quick fix is IsoponP40 which is glass reinforced car body filler. Clean up the area & ensure it is dry with no loose material, then knock up a bit of P40 & spread using flat scraper. Repair will probably be stronger than using replacement wood & certainly quicker. It starts to go off in about 15mins & is hard in an hour. Sand it smooth once hard if you like.

I have used P40 to repair floor on mine including corner that was rotted. Build up any deep holes in layers.


PersonLobeyDosser
14/1/2015 at 10:55am
 Location: Argyll Scotland
 Outfit: 1997 Bailey Ranger 470 4 View LobeyDosser's Profile View Profile   Reply to LobeyDosser Reply   Quote LobeyDosser Quote  
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In my opinion, because the top surface of the floor is only 3 ply thick, it was never meant to be "solid" surface, but to give a little under the weight of feet.

Hence my preference to use materials that would also "give" a little, but still spread the load.

Gorilla glue is put on with one surface wet and the glue reacts to this giving an expanding foam bond.

If you use a bond that sets hard, it will lead to cracking between the old and new surfaces.

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Lobey.


PersonBilly....
14/1/2015 at 12:27pm
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Its worked on my caravan ok, I repaired it about 3yrs ago. The stuff is at least as flexible as the plywood, its so easy, takes 20mins. Why not do it the easy way? the object of the exercise is a working caravan, not craftsmanship.


Personcambridgecockne
14/1/2015 at 3:48pm
 Location: leics
 Outfit:  disco td5_ avondale corfu. View cambridgecockne's Profile View Profile   Reply to cambridgecockne Reply   Quote cambridgecockne Quote  
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Had similar turned out was the door.ended up repairing both.

http://www.1carpc.co.uk/wcdr/neils-door-repair.htm


Persontrog100
15/1/2015 at 3:33pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: None Entered View trog100's Profile View Profile   Reply to trog100 Reply   Quote trog100 Quote  
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if i did it i would put some wooded bearers in.. the idea being to to take the load off the foam and transfer it down to the bottom layer of ply.. wood or filter just sat on foam will never be very strong..

you could just cut off some lengths of broom handle to the right length and insert those into the foam..

trog


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PersonDave+Maria
15/1/2015 at 3:44pm
 Location: Wigan
 Outfit: 2003 Swift Accord 490 2010 Honda CR-V View Dave+Maria's Profile View Profile   Reply to Dave+Maria Reply   Quote Dave+Maria Quote  
Joined: 17/7/2007

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Im toying with the idea of fiberglass kit on it.

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Dave + Maria



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