Probably been discussed before, but I cna't seem to find it. Any idea as to how to remove the burner moduel without removing the whole heater. I don't really want to distrub the gas pipe and can't see the screws to remove it.
I need to send it off for repair, as it no longer creates a spark or pulls gas through. I've changed the controller and the cable, so am now down to burner module and the silly little electonic controller that is exposed to the elements under the flue cover.
Unless anyone has any other suggestions as to why it will work on Electric (Imersion) but on gas it won't spark up, won't light manually (no gas pull through) or show a fault (amber light) then that would be appreciated.
After repairing the auto ignition on the fridge and fitting a Watermaster IC upgrade, I was in a good mood until I came to the heater
For a licence dated 1997 or later you must add together the plated max weight of the caravan and trailer, if the total is 3500 or less you can tow it. You may even tow a caravan with a MAM greater than the cars unladen mass the restriction was removed in 2013
Just seen on YouTube (after much searching) that there are 2 screws next to the module behind the flue cover. The module then pulls out of, so doesn't require the gas valve to be un-spannered or the water tank and exchamger to be removed. Thanks for the replies though, it will be off to A&R Electronics as its only £67 for a service and repair.
I wondered about this?, only it's the first time anyone's had the need to ask this question!
Mainly because if it had been me and among many questions/answers, I would certainly have gone through the procedure for removal and why it may not want to come out? also at the same time and importantly, it's safe replacement.
Replacement, because a lot of the time on removal to check, it maybe found it does not need anyone's further help?.
Only the need to get the module out and change the internal 1amp fuse, of which it's possible presence you surely have been made aware of and have been told how specifically to check it before sending for repair??
Hi, took the Module out today and I assume mine is an older model. It's still a Cascade 2 GE, but only has the round pin adapter and no flat 4 pin adapter. Also, once I opened up the plastic module housing, no fuse or place for a 1 Amp glass fuse. Anyone know if I can upgrade the module and how I would do this, as there seems to be more second hand modules with the round and 4 pin adapter. What extra bits would I need to look out for.
On better news, I managed to change some main door hinges that had seized up, with help from an old thread on here, so thank you. I never thought drilling out Rivets could be so annoying though.