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19/4/2015 at 8:56am
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Two things to check first...
Is there 240v arriving at the ultraheats control board? faulty isolation switches and or 3 pin in-line cable connections can prevent power getting to control board.
If you have power at the board and no green light on switch, then usual problem is blown 10v transformer on control board. This is the grey block and biggest thing on the board, quick check is the top should be utterly flat, if it's domed upward at all then is blown.
Some don't show this, so there are four pin connections underneath, check resistance between wide pair on input side reads give or take 2000 ohms resistance, if blown it will be open circuit so no reading.
Isolate mains before doing above resistance checks
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19/4/2015 at 10:53am
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Well I've no idea, I'm fairly certain they should be 12v from the battery and as either has no white in the colours, both will be positive wires.
Generally the only thing on the Truma heating that uses 12v is the fan on 1/4" spade connections but that needs an earth wire of course.
BUT, I've just noticed the age of this thing, Truma heating kicked off in the UK in 2001, least 99% anyway and they all work as I've described above.
However, Truma already had their original Ultraheat which is different in design. Essentially and obviously, this one has the elements in front of the gas fires heat exchanger and a separate control box with loads of wiring?
I don't know a deal about this early one as it's rarely seen in the UK
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19/4/2015 at 11:25am
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No yours is the same as the current one so gets it's controls low voltage from it's own transformer on the control board behind the fire. Only the fan uses the vans battery.
so is it possible it originally had the old one and has been updated?
Might explain this redundant wiring?
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19/4/2015 at 1:53pm
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Ahh! then you go and spoil it!.. it's far more likely to hear 'love' in Nottingham... 'me duck' is further west so mainly heard in another county that I cannot speak of?!
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