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Subject Topic: eldiss amethyst wall repair Post Reply Post New Topic
14/7/2015 at 12:31pm
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 Outfit: eldiss amethyst
View vincent1965's Profile View Profile   Reply to vincent1965 Reply   Quote vincent1965 Quote  
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Hi, just bought an eldiss amethyst c. 1986? There is a soft patch on the front right corner, which will need reboarding and probably some structural support, but it is dry at the moment. The problem is underneath. Behind the skirt rail, the timber (which must be the bottom of the wall?)has rotted out. I expect that the uprights must be affected, but there doesn't seem to be any damp climbing the walls yet. We want to get away in it pretty quick, so I am wondering if it is possible to cut out the bottom rails from underneath and replace, possibly making stubs if the bottom of the upright rails are too far gone. Obviously, I know the only way to do it properly is to strip out the furniture and do from inside, but that's a longer job than I have time for at the moment. I just don't want any more water splashing up from the road and making things worse. I am a cabinetmaker, at least, so pretty skillful in working with wood repairs. Anyone know how the rails are attached to the aluminium body? I can't see any visible fixings, so presume bonded, and will have to be bonded again. Thanks in advance :)


14/7/2015 at 12:50pm
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its not an aluminium body its a wood baton and foam with a thin aluminium skin body.. the structural strength is mostly in the wood battons and to be honest there are never more than a minimal amount of those..

my own view is that once the timber at the bottom where the sides join the floor rot the van has major structural problems..

a panel is made by laying out a minimal soft wood frame filling the air space with cheap foam and then glueing the outer and inner skins to the wood and foam structure..

the floor is made the same way only with a ply skin both sides.. the panels are then screwed and glued together to form a box.. built in furniture helps make the box rigid..

trog


Post last edited on 14/07/2015 13:01:59


14/7/2015 at 8:51pm
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 Outfit: eldiss amethyst
View vincent1965's Profile View Profile   Reply to vincent1965 Reply   Quote vincent1965 Quote  
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Thanks, Trog, yes an important difference. I did know it was really thin and couldn't be doing much in terms of strength. In fact so thin that there are a few pinholes in it, possibly even the original cause. I wonder how much of that is metal fatigue, and how much was swarf in the press when they were bonded together. It's going to be fixable, at the end of the day. But amazed me to see exposed wood underneath, exposed to the elements. How hard would it have been to wrap an aluminium (or plastic even) U-channel round the bottom of the wall?


21/7/2015 at 12:54am
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 Outfit: eldiss amethyst
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Ok, so I've got some time to take a look at this coming up. I do have a question for anyone out there that has done this: whichever way I do it, I have to replace the bottom rail of the wall. There are four sections. In front of the wheels, left and right; and behind the wheels, left and right. Even if I do it from the inside, stripping out the wallboard and insulation, I have to take out what is left of the bottom rail, one quarter at a time and replace it. Obviously, this is what is attaching the body to the floor. Is the body likely to drop on that corner, or do I just pray that the remaining three sections will keep it up while I do the repair? Difficult to support the weight by jacking it up in any way, as I assume it will bend the aluminium skin.



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