Can someone please tell me what size and sort of baton I can use to replace the top part of the frame to get the curve?
I have also noticed damp on tue edge of the celing where it was attached to this rotted part of the frame. Do I need to remove the celing and replace? Has anyone experienced this when replacing damp wall boards?
No right or wrong way of doing these sort of repairs, you just have to be creative. I would probably cut out some half inch ply glued in place using exterior grab glue like Evostik Serious Stuff.
I need to have something thick enough to hold the awning rail outside with 30mm screws. I am hoping to do this after the rain has been this week. I have got duck tape over the joints at the minute.
I dont want to chip away anymore incase i ruin it. I am down to the poly which appears to be very thinck and undamaged but not sure whether to replace anyway where I have removed the old board.
When repairing my awning rails I didn't bother cutting one long curved piece I cut small straight pieces and worked my way around the curve. The greater the curve the smaller the piece. Then soudal fixall high tack used to bond the wood to the alluminium and poly and together end by end. It's important that the baton is the correct thickness so that it will be plush with the wall board. Make sure to use stainless steel screws. Smaller screws can be gotten from Screwfix. £4 for 100. Your local timber should be able to get 4mm plywood which needs prrofed with pva. This can be used as top layer of wall board and then vinyl wallpaper. I suggest b and m for cheap wallpaper
I keep thinking I am getting somewhere then just wish I had never started. How thick would you say the batton needs to be? I have bought some 2x1 that are treated but they look a bit rubbish as they have knots in.
I used soft wood and then used wood protector on it. The soft wood had knots but was easier to treat and easier to cut. Different vans have different batton thickness. Easiest way to tell is to remove the window rubber and measure. Remember to discount wall board and the alluminium. You should have a couple of building merchants nearby who might even be able to cut the lengths to size (or as they call it "rip it out") for you so that they will be wide enough to fit and then you just need to cut down the length that you need. If the batons need replaced chances are part of the wallboard needs replaced too as the damp will have travelled down.
Quote: Originally posted by KayBee123 on 17/5/2016
Thanks Stevo.
I keep thinking I am getting somewhere then just wish I had never started. How thick would you say the batton needs to be? I have bought some 2x1 that are treated but they look a bit rubbish as they have knots in.
I wish my Brother was still around to help me
Where are you located ??? Will give you help if local, but not much help if you're not.
I have bought sealant sikaflex512 just need to get some mastic tape to run along the rail once removed and cleaned so I can put it back on. Do you need to get 32mm w4 stuff or can any other be used?
Soudal fixall is much cheaper that sikaflex and does the same job. Available from Screwfix. I used w4 mastic. Bought it from Amazon but I live in northern Ireland and postage tended to cost more than the products so I always tried to get free delivery. there may be cheaper suppliers in England. I always went wider than the rail. So 45mm on awning rails
Thanks Steve. Your advice is much appreciated. If the pics had loaded properly you would be able to see the issues I am faced with. Only parts of the board needs replacing. I am having a bit of a mare with the corner piece in the overhead cupboard storage area. I have dismantled this as much as I can without damaging it as it is one unit that runs right across the rear of the van. It also appears to be attached by dirty big rivets from the outside in. Found out by ripping a hole in one of the boards when removing a sill.
Onwards and upwards as looking at some pics through the links provided on here and others online it is not that bad.
Mines was pretty bad. Back to corners of floor needed repaired and front corner. Both awning rails replaced. Alluminium repairs, took all wall board off and sections of ceiling board. In the process of making new wallboard at the. The van is now watertight however with all new mastic and new supporting frames. Looking forward to getting it finished but it has been a graft. When I read about newish vans having similar problems i think repairing an old van is worthwhile
I am in 2 minds as to whether I should remove the celing boards as I have noticed along where I have removed the old rotted batton the celing cover paper and edges where it joins to the wall looks rusty and was flaking off wet. Its annoying though because the wall on the opposite side is dry.
That is my way of thinking as I have seen so many new vans that are riddled with damp due to poor production. Old vans are like vintage cars. They dont make em lile they used to. :)