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Subject Topic: Elddis damp front end Post Reply Post New Topic
PersonBobeena
via mobile 27/4/2019 at 3:53pm
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Hi all. I have been reading lots on this fab forum about doing my own damp repairs and I have taken the plunge and made a start! The front end to the left hand side of the window was totally rotten so I made a plan to take off wall board remove rotten wood and have a good look at where water is getting in. Fix outside reseal and then replace everything. Obviously the more I take out the more I am finding! Help! Can I get away with just doing the left hand window and to the left of the centre window or am I going to hav to replace the whole of the inside front end. I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew!! I can't figure out how to post pictures on here.... I'm thinking deep down I know the advice I am going to get. Thanks in advance


Persontowedyears
27/4/2019 at 9:13pm
 Location: Cannock Chase Staffordshire
 Outfit: Lunar ultima 564+Volvo XC60D5 AWD View towedyears's Profile View Profile   Reply to towedyears Reply   Quote towedyears Quote  
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Hi Bobeena don't dismay I have repaired many rotten and damaged caravans back to as new condition. Obviously vans leak from the outside you will need to find the source of the leak. The internal damage will assist in this obviously gravity plays its part but lateral travel of the leak also occurs due to contours and absorbance of construction. It is highly likely awning rail or trims will have to be removed these are generally sealed with a butyl mastic sealing tape made for caravans. Be careful to look for dirty tracks where water has penetrated tube mastic can be applied in such areas between overlapping body panels prior to replacing butyl mastic and trim. But any rotten timber frame needs to be replaced first to ensure screws can grip when refitting external rails. Obtaining matching internal panels if possible and use old panels as templates. If however the old panels are mush use card board or similar to make templates as a guide before cutting replacement panels. Replace of timber framework using no more nails or similar to stick in place with screws were possible at ends and abutments with other timbers. Don't rush take time walk away and think. Yes it looks bad but then bit by bit it looks better and with care and positive effort it can be better than when it was built.   


PersonBobeena
via mobile 28/4/2019 at 5:44pm
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Thank you towedyears for your response and advice. I am a bit confused about where the wet is getting in to the right of the LH window, it appears wet at top and bottom corners but pretty much dry in between. Do you think this suggests maybe the window seals are leaking in the corners? I was going to invest in new seals for the left and middle window but should I go the whole hog and do the one on the right too. My biggest concern is doing it all and thinking its perfect but it continues to secretly leak behind my repairs!


Persontowedyears
28/4/2019 at 7:08pm
 Location: Cannock Chase Staffordshire
 Outfit: Lunar ultima 564+Volvo XC60D5 AWD View towedyears's Profile View Profile   Reply to towedyears Reply   Quote towedyears Quote  
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I had a similar problem with my current van. A design fault and obviously leaking from new. The water was entering at the top but not going behind the rubber seal it travelled down the rubber trim rather like a gutter and puddled in the bottom of the trim. Because the windows are sloping I.E. not vertical the water over flowed inwards as the inner edge of the trim/gutter was lower than the outer edge. Fortunately I noticed soon after purchase. The clue was the slight rust on a screw in the bottom window catch. The actual fault was the three front windows allowed water to travel in the gaps to left and right of centre window. I made pencil size pellets of butyl strip sealant and blocked the gaps in the top hinge trims of the windows. Job done no further problem. With regard to your repair I have never found the need to swap rubber trims around window aperture. If they were sealed at the factory simply clean off old sealant wipe rubber with white spirit dry and reseal. Generally the rubber itself forms the seal . Finding the source is important all you do know its somewhere above the damp area. Does you van have 3 windows?    


PersonBobeena
via mobile 28/4/2019 at 7:30pm
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Yeah it has 3 windows at the front. I can't see any rust on the screws inside the windows. I found a hole in the fibreglass at the top of the left hand side but the right hand side of the window is stumping me a little bit.


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Persontowedyears
28/4/2019 at 7:54pm
 Location: Cannock Chase Staffordshire
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The hole should be a concern particularly if it was above the window any water would follow the inside of the panel until it hits the rubber seal it would then travel down between the trim and the timber frame then gathering at the bottom any horizontal timber. Just checked my windows and realised the problem was a gap or cut out in the top hinge strip of each window . The windows hinge and clip into the top trim which is one continual strip and not a problem. The problem was the small cut out notches allowing water to pass through onto rubber trims it was these notches they I have blocked and sealed. Maybe your windows are the same maker as mine with a similar fault. To check open the window fully and look for daylight from a small notch. Pull the rubber trims off look for evidence of water.


PersonBobeena
via mobile 29/4/2019 at 11:51am
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OK will do thank you. I have taken the wallboard off around the top of the middle window to about 2/3s of the way along and it looks dry from half way. Do you think I should not disturb it if is dry or take it all out anyway. Thanks for all your advice, it is much appreciated


Persontowedyears
29/4/2019 at 1:40pm
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If its dry it should be ok. You can test for any damaged timber without removing further panels by using a sewing needle pushed in using pliers if the timber is good the needle will barely penetrate. To ensure the leak has been cured having fixed the hole or other point of entry and having replaced any damaged timber framework it could be worth using a hosepipe to test the repair prior to replacing any internal panels.


Personpaulisabout
13/10/2020 at 8:27pm
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How did this repair fair in the end?


PersonBobeena
via mobile 13/10/2020 at 8:42pm
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As far as I know all good. I do worry tho, what if its quietly continuing to seep in! No sign of that as yet 😁


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Personpaulisabout
13/10/2020 at 9:14pm
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Hi thanks for replying. I have been watching some videos and it seems quite complex. Did you stick the new frames to the outer skin with something like sikaflex 512/522?

Did you have to replace the front sill as well? Ours is rotten.


Personspasmloot100
16/2/2021 at 6:02pm
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Hi i have an Eldis Autoquest 240

the front bedding area/cab and sides windows are completes rotten, had the remove the front aluminium panel and take all back to metal. I can upload photos, it does look daunting! ive yet to rebuild mine yet, take time and think. Ive also a load of aluminium corrosion and holes, so i will have to deal with every angle! Happy to help if i can , had a long think about materials/sealants ect staples/screws/nails...so many options to take into account but dont want to do this twice!!


PersonShauna1976
via mobile 23/2/2021 at 10:06am
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Hi there , I’ve just joined , I myself have the same problem with damp, I’ve ende up taking full front off down to the metal exterior 🙈 my next plan is to take full side off the exterior so I can start build new frame as I won’t be able to access bottom frame without doing this , my question is do I just replace full back exterior panel without window to save hassle or save it 🙈 what type of aluminium could I use for new exterior casing .

Any help would be appreciated thanks 😊



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