I had to replace the shoes last year, and despite checking adjustment and even taking drums off again to check, can't see anything wrong. The brakes apply themselves when reversing. It was ok before changing the shoes. I wonder if the original shoes were leading and trailing (they were totally shot so couldn't tell) the ones fitted were aftermarket and have full linings.
I'm a retired mechanic but a bit baffled.
When you say the come on when reversing does it happen soon as you said reversing then the more gas you give they free off? Or are the randomly coming on during reversing?
If they were ok before, I’d suspect a fault when refitting. Apart from very old ‘vans, most caravans have collapsing shoes, so that when reversing the overrun brakes are over-ridden if that makes sense, and the shoe collapses to prevent brake application.
You can probably google it for a more technical explanation and video.
I haven't tried overiding them as they are seriously locked on as soon as the weight comes on hitch spring. I get the feeling that the cam in the drum is not collapsing but can't figure out why. That is why I wondered if there was a trailing and leading shoe
Just wondered if anyone had any ideas before I buy more one shot nuts. I should add that the brakes are working fine when going forward and handbrake has plenty of reserve travel. From what I can see on various websites everything is ok.
Thanks for the replies.
It is a 2006 ace jubilee viceroy on an alko chassis.
I tried easing off the shoe adjustment but this gives too much travel on the hitch spring causing brakes to snatch.
I replaced the shoes, return springs, hold downs, all adjusters etc were either replaced or were lubed. I did not adjust the rods or cables assuming they were correct before I replaced the shoes. I noticed on the pictures I found that the cable enters the drum at the bottom, mine enters at the top otherwise looks identical.
When ever I’ve changed Alko shoes in the past and I’ve done quite a few recently, I’ve always done what they said on a course years ago, which is to basically replace shoes, refit drum and new hub nut, once refitted from behind drum tighten shoes up via access hole to the adjuster checking ever 4 notches until the shoes are tight and the drum won’t move. Then release the adjuster by 14 notches.
Hi, when adjusting alko brake, make sure there is a little free play at the front end of brake rod before adjusting shoes, do not adjust shoes until the drum locks. I would start again by making sure tow hitch is pulled right forward, then backing adjuster off work handbrake a few times to reset shoes then Rotate wheel in forward direction while moving adjuster 3 clicks at a time until shoes contact the drum and just starts to restrict movement then back off 1 click at a time until wheel spins free again. Then to check pull handbrake on 1 click and wheel should still rotate forward tho with some resistance, another click on handbrake should then lock brake drum. With brake off the compensator spring cylinder at front of brake rod should be adjusted to be able turn it round or a fraction of free play. If the brakes are snatching that could be a separate issue such as hitch damper.
thanks albee, that's got me thinking about the hitch damper.
any idea how much effort it should take to compress the hitch spring? e.g. should I be able to push it back easily by hand.